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Found 37 results

  1. ScarletSwordfish

    Macintosh SE FDHD: Gray Screen, No Boot

    Hello, I recently bought a Macintosh SE FDHD that has trouble booting. When I power it on, it plays the startup chime, and shows the standard 1-bit gray screen, but it never displays a pointer, Happy Mac, Sad Mac, blinking ?, blinking X, or anything; just 1-bit gray. It will not boot from a floppy or external SCSI device. Pressing reset causes it to chime again and the gray screen persists. Pressing interrupt shows a Sad Mac with the code 0000000F 0000000D, which goes away on reset. I also tried resetting the PRAM to no effect. I just opened up the machine this week. The battery had not leaked and I removed it. I confirmed that the hard drive is functioning properly by mounting it on another Mac. The computer was very dusty inside so I cleaned out the dust to the best of my ability. I reassembled the machine and tested it again, but I get the same results as above. Someone suggested that I try re-seating the ROM chips. I will try that next time I have the machine open. Until then, does anyone have any other ideas as to what could be wrong and what I can try to fix it?
  2. Folks, let me be clear. MacEffects is worthy of your consideration.
  3. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  4. I've been working on a new video focused on SE and SE/30 fan upgrades over the last month and a half. I don't have any machines with the old squirrel cage fan, but I am aware many SE owners are. I want to add info in my video for those folks. I've searched this forum for "squirrel cage" and read through a lot of posts, but no one has provided a step-by-step upgrade with photos. Uniserver said that in his opinion it was the best fan because it moves a lot of air and is quiet, although he admits that it's noisy when dirty; and the reality is fans get dirty faster than you think. The boxer fans in contrast remain about the same in volume even with a bit of crud on them. Plus, the boxer fans are sold today whereas the squirrel cage fan is not. Anyway, I want to confirm with those of you who have done this squirrel-to-boxer fan upgrade how you did it. Specifically, if all you have is an older SE analog board with the squirrel cage fan, removing that fan means you have no metal bracket for mounting a replacement 60mm fan. (Newer analog boards had 60mm boxer fans.) I did find the following post: But "Velcro"? Really? Seems like it would wobble around after a while. In any case, I'd love to see a photo of that. Another post I found was this: But that is only for a 50x20mm fan, which I personally would not use because it's too small. Even most 60mm fans are rather small in terms of their airflow. Anything smaller would either not move much air at all or need to ramp up the rpms and be noisy to move sufficient air. If anyone knows of someone who created a 3D printable bracket, that would perhaps be the ideal solution. It might a bit more sound damping too as compared to the stock metal bracket, but one would need to print and test such a plastic bracket to know for certain. Any thoughts, suggestions and photos you are willing to share would be appreciated. Thank you.
  5. Hi all! I have a Mac SE with this board inside. It was a surprise to find it. But the original HD is gone. So, in order to get it working I need some sort of 68000 extension to enable it. Anyone have it? Or know where I can get one? Cheers!
  6. lisa2

    Turbo SE accelerator

    I have a Mac SE with a Mac Memory Turbo SE accelerator. This board has a 16Mhz 68000, a 68881 math coprocessor, and 4 Meg RAM. It works very well, but I do not have any drivers or documentation for it. Does anyone out there have more information (or the software) for this board? Thanks, Rick
  7. Greetings. I'm just starting to learn about classic macs, so bear with me. I have a Mac SE with SuperDrive, a PowerBook G3 Lombard with USB, and a modern MacMini. I'd like to download files from the internet on my MacMini (running High Sierra) to my Mac SE. I get that my Mini can't write in the HFS format. What if I use my G3 as a bridge? Could I transfer images from my Mini to my G3 (Mac OS 9.0), to my SE (System 6.08) via AppleTalk? Any advice would be appreciated.
  8. AlexTheCat123

    Value of a Radius Accelerator Card

    Hello! I found a Radius Accelerator SE card in a Macintosh SE that I recently acquired like the one seen in the image attached. It contains a 68020 running at 16 megahertz and also has a 68881 FPU. The card seems to work fine, but I can't seem to find much information about it or what it is worth online. Can anyone give me a price for it so that when I sell it a get a good deal? Thanks!
  9. traildog64

    Radius SE Accelerator Card

    Hello. I'm new to this site. I've had a Mac SE in storage for years. Only recently have I again started playing with it. I was happy to see that someone had previously upgraded the floppy to a SuperDrive. My SCSI hard drive was dead, but I was able to install a SCSI2SD card, which works great. I'm looking forward to playing some vintage Infocom games like Suspended. I also bought a Radius SE accelerator card years ago, but never used it. It looks pristine to me, but I'm no expert. I've been looking online for any documentation that might exist for these. I've found a few mentions of the cards on various sites, including this one, but no documentation. I've seen pictures of the cards, and some drivers. Would anyone know if these are plug 'n play, or what might be required to make them work? Thanks in advance.
  10. This is a cautionary tale on what not to do with your Macintosh SE. Ever since I replaced the HDD in my SE, I always felt the new drive wasn't secure enough. There are six screw points on the 40 MB Conner HD SC drive and only four screw points on the SE's HDD bay. Only two of the Conner's screw points (one on the left side of the drive and one on the right) lined up with the SE's screw points. This means that the HDD was only held in place by two screws. It was okay, but it could've been more secure. Sometimes when running the SE, I would hear a "klinking" sound, which I assumed had to do with the HDD. I found a 5.25'' to 3.5'' HDD bracket on ebay and thought maybe this bracket would help secure the drive. The bracket didn't fit no matter what way I tried to install it. I then gave up and tried to put the HDD back in its original place. Unfortunately, I used the wrong screw and bored into the drive's PCB board and knocked off one of the capacitors. After that happened I tried using a Segate Barracuda drive I pulled from a beat up Power Macintosh 7500 I bought a while back. The Segate drive fit the bay perfectly, except the screw points didn't line up at all. Curious to see if the drive would work, I secured it to the bay using electrical tape and hooked it up to the logic board. When I turned on my SE, this drive started up and was the loudest drive I had ever heard. It got louder as it spun up to the point where I was a afraid something was gonna blow up. I immediately turned off my SE and waited. After a couple minutes, I decided to swap out the Segate with the drive from my Classic II. The Classic II uses a 40 MB Conner, but the HDD bracket in the Classic II fits the drive perfectly. Instead of just swapping drives, I decided to swap brackets too including the floppy drive. I looked into swapping the ROMs in order to do a proper Superdrive upgrade to the SE (thought I might as well since I was going to put the Classic II's floppy drive in there along with the HDD), but the Classic II ROMs don't fit in the SE. After doing the swap, I put my SE back together and turned it on only to get a blank screen and a clicking noise coming from the power supply. I immediately turned off the SE. Looking up the clicking noise on this forum has led me to the conclusion that I must have killed the power supply when I put the Segate drive in the SE. I guess the lesson here is, be careful what kind of HDD you put in your SE.
  11. Hi all, I was recapping an SE's Rev A analog board and found a diode soldered between CR4 and a resistor I can't see the designation of, and a capacitor between that diode and R26. Is that a modification to basically mod it into a Rev B? Can anyone shed some light on to what this does exactly? Thanks, Mingo.
  12. StuffIt 3.5 can’t see some .sit fires. I tried to install Aladin StuffIt 5.something and I don’t have 8mb or RAM on my 4mb SE. is there another software repository where everything for 68k is stored in floppy format (.dsk)? I am using SCSI2SD and Floppy Emu. Thanks.
  13. I just read through the CRT guide posted above and most of the talk revolved around the CRT and Analog board compatibility. My question is will the connector from the analog board work with any logic board? I understand that some boards are larger or smaller than others but my question is if they are interchangeable. I read somewhere sometime that an SE can be "upgraded" by putting in a SE/30 logic board (PDS slot size issues may happen). Basically the situation is that I have an SE/30 that I need to recap but I want to see if this Classic II logic board will work in it while I wait for the parts. Thanks in advance.
  14. Hi everyone, I have a Macintosh SE Superdrive M5011 assembled in singapore with a working 20MB HDD, 4MB of RAM and a superdrive. It works most of the time without an issue, ive been able to change date and time, it keeps, has ms word and MYOB software on the HDD. It has the older 4MB max board which was recapped, washed, has new battery, and ROMs were reseated and scrubbed with alcohol, case colour was restored a bit also. I've also read the dead mac scrolls. Here are the issues: 1. Superdrive isn't recognized in the OS, eject is grayed out too. Not sure what version the OS is although MS word didn't allow an action due to not having system 7. 2. Checkerboard pattern displays whenever it feels like it, only occurs when turning on, no chime, 10 min later the Mac will chime and work like normal for a few more boots. 3. Single vertical lines, single horizontal lines (both very thin ones) sometimes, random flashes, shaking on the screen, all these things occur, knocking on the left seems to restore picture when line occurs. (I have a complete set of caps to replace on analog board though, including the 3.9uf 250V panasonic film cap, ill replace old ones on Sunday) I just don't know where all these possible cracked joints on the board are located. 4. Only 2 of 4MB is recognized by OS, jumper is set to 2/4MB. It has 4 x 1 MB Samsung KMM591000CN-7 parity RAM, one of the old 1MB sticks of the original 2.5MB kit were dead, no old sticks remain in system. Also another question, does anyone know how I could restore the apple logo in the front left of case? Colour on mine is gone. I will appreciate any help, thank you.
  15. ktkm

    SE/30 CRT Geometry knobs

    Hello before I die! After watching techknight’s video regarding CRT Swaps, I was intrigued how easy it looks. After much consideration I’m thinking of performing something similar with an SE/30. However, one thing the video won’t explain is how exactly the knobs work (see attached image). 1. First of all, are they safe to touch with your bare hand? 2. There are eight knobs, but which knob affects exactly what part of the screen geometry? 3. Once moved/rotated are they stable, or do they need glue of som sort to stay fixed? 4. Two of them (2 and 3 in the attached image) seem hard to reach, how are they best dealt with? Has anyone here done this successfully? Sincerely, ktkm 9_inch_crt-geometry-1.pdf
  16. I’ve been watching an SE lately, because of a 13W3 jack sticking out on the back. Could this possible be an RasterOps ColorVue SE APD? If not? Could it be something else perhaps? And is it limited to an SE only? (The seller won’t specify). /ktkm
  17. jefframsey

    New Member, Old Mac SE

    Hi 68kLBA, I am new here. My name is Jeff Ramsey. I am a 38 year old IT professional, and I've been in the business around 20 years. When I was a kid in school, my first experiences with computers were with my grandmother's Commodore 64, and then I got my own Commodore 64. In grade school, we did not have Commodores, we had Apple II or Mac 512s. I envied those machines so much! They were way out of my price range, but man they were cool! Anyhow, now I have three kids and we love to play both current and retro games. At the same time, I wanted a project to do at home. Sort of a computer "hobby" project. SO I decided to start by refurbishing a Comact Mac. (Starting to sound more like my first day at Alcoholics Anonymous than my first post here at this point, huh? HI, I'm Jeff, and this is where I screwed up...) I bought an SE (FD/HD model 5011) from an elderly lady's closet. (Don't ask what I was doing in a 90 year old lady's closet.) It had been sitting for years. It powered up, the screen was clean, a little bit of screen burn, but clearly working. It was asking for a floppy. I paid $40 and took it home. I made some System 6.0.8 disks and it booted and ran! I didn't remember the date or time (dead battery) and didn't see the hard drive at all. I made a disk for "The Oregon Trail" and played all the way through with my daughter. We made it to Willamette with 3 of our 5 still alive. Yay! Now I wanted to upgrade the 1MB ram to 4MB and I wanted to fix the hard drive, so I made a 12" long T15 (my friend made the tool with a short bit and a bit of round stock steel. Thanks Tyler.) and opened her up. Here is what I found: I wasn't prepared to deal with this bad of a battery issue last night, so I just installed the RAM chips, changed the jumper for the RAM, replacement hard drive then buttoned her back up. What I got was discouraging. The hard drive still does not show up in SC HD Setup, and although the memory is showing 4mb now, the machine is crashing randomly now. It will run for a few minutes and then either a "bomb" system error or just freeze up. I am getting ready to clean the entire mainboard here in a few minutes. I looked at all of the caps and they all looked ok, non were burst or bulging, but I will look at them again more closely. Aside from that, is there anything that I am looking for? Thanks
  18. spaceinvader12

    Strange Mac SE startup anomaly

    So, I was pulling out my favorite SD, my FDHD model. I haven't used it at all this month because I've been so busy with other projects. And now, an old problem I thought was gone is back. Essentially, I flip the switch and it doesn't start up right away. Rather than describe the symptoms I'll attach a dropbox link to the video of me showing it https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqydlzlqikiyyei/V_20170412_191041.mp4?dl=0 So, here are the details that are hard to see in the video. The flyblack sounds like it's clicking (not audible over speaker popping) and the hard drive spins up and down, but gradually gets louder and faster as time goes on (pulses with the drive LED). Similarly, the checkerboard pattern gets more and more grey pixels on it as time goes on, but eventually snaps to the right screen and it finally has the correct startup bong. The time can be anywhere from a few seconds to several minutes before it boots correctly, but so far, it always has done so. It happened to be relatively short the time I videoed the issue. I've checked the voltages, which read around 5.1V and 12.2V on the floppy port. My only guess is that it could be flyback or heat related. The problem seems like it disappears entirely in the cold as I only had it last summer, less in the fall, none in the winter, and now it's showing up again. The flyback clicking suggest it may be voltage related, is it likely that it's bad and needing replacement? I've done a lot of googling but found nothing like this anywhere and I'm stumped. What should I do?
  19. jefframsey

    Audio Jack volume control on SE

    Is there a separate volume control for the audio port on the back? My internal speaker is not working and so I thought I would see if it is the audio chip or the traces or just the speaker connector, which is really loose in my machine. So I plugged my headphones in and booted up the Mac. "BOOOOOONNNNNNGGGGG!!!!!" The volume about killed my ear drum! As soon as it got booted up I went to control panel expecting the volume to be up to 11 (Spinal Tap!!!) but it was only on three. No matter where I set the volume it was the same. The only tim it was better, was when I turned it to 0, which muted the volume all together. So is this because my machine is not working correctly, or because there is another volume control for the audio jack, or is it normal behavior?
  20. I have an SE (my second compact - enjoying this new hobby) with an 800k drive and a 20mb HD. The machine boots up fine from the HD, but activity indicator light is red instead of green. Every compact I've used in the past has a green indicator light. My question is simple, is the indicator telling me there is an issue with the HD, or were some SEs just made with red indicators instead of green? If it helps, when I verify the HD with Disk First Aid it says the drive has some "problems", but obviously, since its booted on that drive, it cannot repair them.
  21. So, I might be getting a decently sized conquest of Mac stuff this weekend from trades. There'll probably be a post from me in that section around Satueday, but for now I've got a question. Among this lot is a Macintosh Color Display, the 640x480 CRT. From what I've heard and read, the only input is a DA-15 cable. I have two questions regarding this. Firstly, is it at all possible to wire an adapted to allow composite input? The form factor and resolution would be perfect for my N64 and C64 if so, and I'm willing to solder a cable. This seems quite unlikely, but honestly, I'd be over the moon if it was possible. I've been looking for a decent CRT for a while and if this is possible it'd fit the bill perfectly as well as being useable with Macs. Secondly, I want to get this monitor running with my SE as an external display. What kind of card would I need to drive this and how could I get one? I know they're pretty rare, likely, and I haven't got a ton of money. What makes should I be on the lookout for? I haven't got a pizza box Mac or a tower to hook it up to; I've currently only got compact macs. So, it looks like a nice monitor that isn't too big (14"), and I'm happy to have it when I get it. I was just wondering what I need to do to get it going and could use all the advice I could get. Thanks!
  22. ktkm

    SE/30 Start-up time

    I saved an SE/30 with 64MB of RAM! Since I’m not used to this amount what is the normal boot-time? It takes approximately 50 seconds for the ”happy-mac” icon to do it’s thing in 32 bit mode (Mode 32 7.5), is this normal? Is it time for a re-cap? /K
  23. Since I bought it a few years ago, the analog board on my Macintosh SE SuperDrive has suffered an odd problem, where the picture often changes scale/brightness. It happens occasionally when the machine is running normally. The picture becomes brighter, slightly wider, and about 1/3 of the screen (on the left) becomes slightly dim. I believe it also gets a bit squashed, vertically. If the analog board is moved or tapped even slightly, the screen changes between normal appearance and the messed-up state. The board does not need to be warped or stressed in any way for it to occur. I finally recorded the issue, and I'd be grateful for any expert help on what part of the analog board is causing this. None of the components appear to be loose; I cannot find cracked joints anywhere. An example can be seen here. I hope the diagonal scanning recorded by the camera is not too much of an issue.
  24. just.in.time

    MiniScribe 20, what to do?

    Hi, I have an Apple Hard Drive 20SC. The original 5.25" drive stopped working. I decided to put in my SE's old MiniScribe drive since the mounting bracket is already drilled for that drive as well. Good news, the drive still works great after being stored for 8 months. Bad news, the rubber seal around the perimeter of the MiniScribe is getting incredibly soft and oily, like it is about to turn to sludge. Is there anything that can be done to prevent it from failing? Or if there is no saving the rubber, is it possible to replace the rubber parts on the MiniScribe? I know the quantum drives can have their head stopper rubber piece replaced with a piece of aquarium air tube. Are there similar tricks to keeping a working MiniScribe going?
  25. See that adapter? Think about it as a little bit of inspiration. So, the SWIM chip as we all know is an upgrade to earlier Macintosh SE machines that were equipped with 800k drives and was once an upgrade option for users who want to read and write 1.44MB floppy drives. I'm now an owner of a battery-acid-victim SE/30 motherboard and was wondering about what could be used as a donor for other systems. I am also in possession of an 800k Macintosh SE overseas and was just fantasizing about using the SWIM chip and SuperDrive from the SE/30 in the SE. First problem: form factor. The IWM and SWIM chip in the Macintosh SE is the 28 pin DIP package. Yeah, good enough. Too bad that the SE/30 SWIM form factor comes in a 44-pin PLCC form factor. (square package with pins on all sides vs. rectangle package with pins only length-wise) So, looking a little deeper at the documentation referenced below, it seems they are work-alikes, they just need to be wired up properly. And possibly it may mean that I need to do a bit of board design to get the right pinouts. This is new territory for me, but nothing's impossible, right? So then the living Mac SE gets the SWIM chip in the bespoke cradle in a DIP package, the SuperDrive from the donated SE/30, and a whole new era of parts salvage possibilities comes about. This feels easier than, say, trying to emulate the behavior of a SWIM chip in a programmable package (using a Teensy or similar that's more powerful than the Mac SE itself.. ha!) Assuming the board pinouts were routed appropriately and the thing actually works, I'd imagine this would be useful for people doing resto-mods and retro-upgrades to their Macintosh SE machines. Donor boards for SWIM chips wouldn't be limited to just SE/30's, they could come from Classic logic boards, IIci boards, etc. References: http://mirror.informatimago.com/next/developer.apple.com/technotes/hw/pdf/hw_14.pdf Apple Technical Note HW14 <a data-ipb="nomediaparse" data-cke-saved-href="http://ftp.netbsd.org/pub/NetBSD/misc/wrstuden/Apple_PDFs/SWIM%20Chip%20User"href="http://ftp.netbsd.org/pub/NetBSD/misc/wrstuden/Apple_PDFs/SWIM%20Chip%20User" s%20ref.pdf"="">http://ftp.netbsd.org/pub/NetBSD/misc/wrstuden/Apple_PDFs/SWIM%20Chip%20User's%20Ref.pdf Apple SWIM Chip Reference Guide http://www.ccadams.org/se/MacSEservice.pdf Mac SE Service Guide Mods - feel free to move this message into a different forum if it's not appropriate - hardware hacks? I dunno.