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Found 13 results

  1. Here is what you can expect, Video Chapters 0:00 — Intro 2:19 — Capacitor Locations 4:41 — Capacitor Replacement 14:18 — Microscope view 18:55 — Lifting head for cleaning 21:13 — Protective yellow plastic disk 22:37 — Metal Mounting Bracket 24:31 — Ribbon Cable Types (stripe color) 26:20 — Disk Ejection Woe 26:57 — Cleaning & Lube 30:11 — Sliding smooth with KURE 5-56 (WD-40) 34:22 — Plastic Gearbox Disassembly 37:43 — Gear that usually breaks 40:31 — Microscope view of Gears 47:06 — Head Assembly Removal for lubrication 52:02 — SuperLube Grease & Oil 1:00:51 — Gearbox Lube 1:01:16 — Mixing Grease & Oil 1:11:27 — Hot Glue on Bottom Plate of Gearbox 1:25:51 — Springs 1:26:23 — Final Testing 1:28:34 — Closing Words Don't forget to check the show notes as well. Cheers!
  2. I just ordered a set of caps to service several Color Classic analog boards. There are 23 different caps on this board, so just getting all the right stuff in the cart was tedious. Here's a Digikey cart link to make it quick and easy for anyone else doing the same. https://www.digikey.com/short/zmr2t1 This is for a complete recap, which may be unnecessary. Check out the various guides if you want to trim it down to only likely culprits. Also, the quantities in this cart are to replace caps on one board, with no spares. Most are very cheap, so you might want to get 10 or more of all to have them handy if you plan to to other recapping work in the future. Cheers!
  3. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  4. It’s been long in coming but I finally kicked it out today. Yes, even your working order Mac 128K through the Plus can use a recap. A video INDEX is in the text description on YouTube to help you easily refer to different sections of this 1 hour video. Even if you aren't interested in a recap, check out the bad Flyback segment where it lights up in the dark!
  5. An impromptu live recapping Old electronic devices with surface mount electrolytic capacitors are often affected by capacitor leakage. Watch Bruce of Branchus Creation muddle through the recapping of a Macintosh IIvi. New to recapping? Watch the man and learn some cool stuff. Enjoy!
  6. Just uploaded my Apple Hard Disk 20SC recapping video, which also covers the 40SC, 80SC and 160SC since they all use the same SONY CR-43 PSU. Check the text description for a Mouser Cart and useful info. At the end, I do a boot test with a 2015 15" MBP.
  7. I'm in the planning process to recap the SONY PSU housed inside my Apple HD20SC external hard drive enclosure. (I might make a video.) I've got a Mouser cart filled with mostly Organic Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors for that PSU (see below), which have very low ESR down to between 12mΩ and 43mΩ. There are many benefits to low ESR capacitors, and the life rating on them is very high compared to regular aluminum electrolytics. But my concern is that the output of some switch-mode (switching) power supplies can ring if the ESR of the output capacitance is too low (as per the data sheets of many switch mode controllers), so do any of you have a schematic? If not, have any of you used a large number of Organic Polymer capacitors in your vintage Mac PSU recap jobs with success? (I'm asking about power supplies here. Non-PSU applications don't matter much. Mostly those cases are a decoupling/bypass caps which hold up the voltage in times of voltage dips, and those caps benefit from very low ESR.) Here's my Mouser list of mostly polymer caps: C226: 22uF 35V, D=5.2mm -- (Mouser: A759BQ226M1HAAE075) C202: 47uF 25V, D=5.2mm -- (Mouser: A750EK476M1EAAE040) C222: 47uF 25V, D=5.2mm -- (same as C202, so get 2pcs) C109: 150uF 400V, H=32mm, D=25.8mm -- (Mouser: 860021383023) C110: 4.7uF 350V H=32mm, D=12.8mm -- (Mouser: UPM2G4R7MHD) C210: 330uF 16V, D=8.1mm -- (Mouser: RL81C331MDN1KX) C215: 470uF 10V, D=8.1mm -- (Mouser: RNE1C471MDN1) C213: 22uF 100V, D=10.2mm -- (Mouser: A759MS226M2AAAE045) C124: 2200uF 10V, D=12.7mm -- (Mouser: UHE1C222MHD) C209: 2200uF 16V, D=12.7mm -- (just buy the same as C124, so get 2pcs) CR-35 daughter card: C181: 100uF 10V, D=8.1mm, H=13.5mm -- (Mouser: RNS1A101MDN1KX) C182: 100uF 10V, D=8.1mm, H=13.5mm -- (same as C181, so get 2pcs)
  8. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  9. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in that thread. I make videos for the enjoyment of it and as a way to give back to the community. I currently don't allow ADs on my videos nor do I have a Patreon account, which is why I've never earned any monetary compensation at all from my videos. (The down side of that is Google doesn't suggest my videos as well as videos with ADs enabled.) I make videos that I really wish someone else had made for me. Even though what you see in my videos isn't necessarily groundbreaking or unique (some of you are far beyond me in terms of troubleshooting knowledge, repairs and mods, for example), I simply am transforming into an easy-to-digest video what otherwise has been exclusively found in "text form" in forums like this. For the new generation of younger people who don't prefer to read, videos are becoming increasingly important. (Even so, I still get Millennials complain my videos are too long, so we can't please everyone. I prefer to be thorough rather than worry about the clock though.) My next video endeavor will be to show the recapping of an SE/30 analog board, and then I will have yet another video showing the recapping of the SONY PSU. Anyway, I hope this information is useful not only for you DiiMO owners but also for those of you who need to recap 5V voltage rails, as the Niobium Oxide caps I chose work perfectly for that, assuming you need 22uF. They come in other sizes though so give them due consideration in your recapping jobs.
  10. ArmorAlley

    Recapping - Current thinking

    Hello everybody, What is the current thinking in regards to recapping boards with orginal caps that work? I^m thinking particularly of the SE, SE/30 and Colour Classic. For the latter two, something is not working, the SE works. My initial thinking was that these machines are over 20 years old and will need new capacitors anyway. Some posters have commented, especially for the SE, that if it is not broken, do not fix it. Is preventative action wise? unnecessary? My second question concerns what should be recapped? I was initially thinking of just getting the mainboard recapped. Again, from reading through posts as well as in general online, it seems that one should get both the PSU and the analog board done as well. Is this also wise and or unnecessary? Getting the machines recapped is pricey (I really do not like soldering), but if I can get give these machines another 25-plus years of service, it will be worthwhile, well, until the CRT finally packs it in and I have to replace it with some wonder-LCD replacement. I am interested to hear your opinions, aa
  11. naryasece

    Classic II Wash/recapping

    Hi all, I am finally working to recap/restore my Classic II that has been out of commission for the last 8 years, using it as practice to refurbish the rest of my collection. The Classic II had weak sound and stopped booting a number of years ago but I have some newbie questions for the refurbishment process. I purchased replacement capacitors as per uniserver's diagrams, got the case cracked open and proceeded with an initial wash as prep before surgery. My steps were: Wash with water spray 91% isopropyl alcohol, swirly motions in a tub of water spray again with alcohol delicately clean around capacitors with a q-tip rinse with water fan dry for about 6 hours The good news, the computer booted right up when the mother board was dry (as best I could tell). I hope I did the wash correctly, but my questions are: The water at my place is soft from what I can tell, I figured tap water would be fine given some motherboards go through the dishwasher. Am I correct to assume this? Should I have avoided the tap water or used distilled water instead? Should I skip water altogether and stick with just the isopropyl alcohol? The motherboard has gunk between the pins of the chips (See attachment), should I be worried about this? I think I noticed some green corrosion on a copper lead (or two), should try to clean it with vinegar/salt (like a US penny) or get some copper cleaner? Anything else I can do to protect the leads/pins on the motherboard? Thanks in advance! Edit: hopefully got the image attached this time Attachment:
  12. Damn, I swear. I was hoping to post up the tale of two recaps of two LC IIIs, but success fails me. One LC III (a LC III @ 25MHz) was dead to begin with. The other LC III (a LC III @ 33MHz) was semi OK, it kept producing random sounds which is attributed to leaky caps. It is the second LC III I crippled. During the recapping, three (1 - 47µf and 2 - 10µf ) caps literally came off the board with no force applied to them and the traces ripped off from the board. It was going so well until I hit these three caps. Then I went to get some wire and found nothing useful so I had to go shopping. I so hate Radio Shack, I got spool of wire and the clerk looked at it as if he never seen wire! Then he said, "This for that Raspberry Pie Robot thing? We don't sell much of those." I just handed him $10 and remained silent. Then I continued on buying other things that I needed - dinner being one of them. Got home, tried to solder tiny bits of wire to the caps and soldered them in place. Put the LC III back together and it bonged! It Bonged with no extra sound! Silence! But then, I got the flashing "?" Disk Icon. I checked my connections and nothing. I'm sure its the cap ( C20 ) by the SCSI connector at the bottom of the board, but now I'm too tired and full of remorse - I crippled my LC III. OK Experts, you think I'm right or wrong? The three caps that came off with traces are: C20, C2 and C18. The area was pretty much surface rotted, but I cleaned it up with a heavy Q-tip and a lot of acetone until it was smooth. All the other caps came of cleanly and soldered in with no problems. As for the first LC, I may have to send it out. This machine was dead since I got it in the late 1990s and it's written all over on the case "NG/NW" for No Good, Not Working. Who ever I sent it too, my SE/30 board will go with it. Even with 3 magnifying glasses I can't find the broken/rotten traces/VIAs on it. Maybe all this surgery crap is playing with my mind and I'm screwing up job that I can do?
  13. With help with from Uniserver, I decided to recap my SE/30 PSU as he determined and evidence shows that is where the Humongus Fish Smell is coming from. And on my thread, he posted up a pic of the caps that need replacement in the SE/30 PSU. So I started to look them up and ran into an interesting situation: Caps for the same rating by different and even the same manufacturer come in different sizes. Thus it comes to a situation - is a physically bigger cap better than a smaller one with the same rating? Is a thin tall cap better or worse than a short fat one with the same rating? Note - there are a few that are the same size, so is this one a "standard size" for such a cap? Here's a partial listing from Mouser.com which I was looking at and found this: (Note: I am not affiliated with Mouser in any way, I was using them as a resource to look up the caps in question. In this list, I removed other details such as price per unit as we are discussing cap sizes for the same ratings and not its pricing. Sometimes buying cheap is a bad thing. So here it goes...) Capacitor Type: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, Radial - Can Type : Leaded, 4,700uF, 16volts Manufacturer: Mouser Part # : Manufacturer Part # Description: (Size in mm) Nichicon 647-UVY1C472MHD : UVY1C472MHD Size: 16x25 Nichicon 647-UVR1C472MHD : UVR1C472MHD Size: 16x25 Nichicon 647-UPW1C472MHD6 : UPW1C472MHD6 Size: 18x25 Panasonic 667-EEU-FR1C472L : EEU-FR1C472L Size: 12.5x35 Panasonic 667-EEU-FR1C472 : EEU-FR1C472 Size: 16x25 Nichicon 647-UHE1C472MHD : UHE1C472MHD Size: 18x25 Panasonic 667-EEU-FR1C472B : EEU-FR1C472B Size: 16x25 Nichicon 647-UPS1C472MHD : UPS1C472MHD Size: 16x31.5 Panasonic 667-EEU-HD1C472 : EEU-HD1C472 Size: 12.5x25