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Found 27 results

  1. Hi there, it's my first post! Some time ago, the PSU in my IIsi suddenly turned itself off while running. Recently I opened it up to try and fix it and found 4 leaked caps on the secondary stage. The electrolyte had corroded through the legs and affected the solder mask and some pins on the bottom side. No unrepairable damage though. Cleaned the mess off, resoldered the oxidized wires and replaced the bad caps. Then tested the bare PCB on my desk with a fog light as load on the +5. It worked absolutely fine again: briefly touching /PFW to PSTRICL turned it on, touching /PFW to GND turned it off. After ten minutes it still worked fine, so overjoyed I put the thing back in its enclosure. Then tested again: /PFW to PSTRICL still turned it on, but as soon as I let the connection go, it turned off. Puzzled by this sudden change in behavior, I touched /PFW to GND to see if that would reset something. Or so I thought, because it wasn't GND -- I took the wrong hole in the connector and instead touched /PFW to -12... No smoke but then it didn't start at all anymore. My heart sank when I realized my mistake -- all my meticulous work, ruined by a single lapse of attention! About a minute later the main fuse F101 suddenly blew, completing the misery. I was quite upset by my stupid mistake and I'm still mad at myself right now... I later reverse engineered most of the main PCB and the daughterboard PCB. All parts on the main PCB seem to test OK, so I'm not sure why the fuse blew. On the daughterboard (https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/5dxpafFDF.jpg) I found three SMD parts with one open PN junction each. Alas Q1 and especially Q2 have such unclear markings that I can't guess what they are, thus halting my resuscitation endeavour. Hence my questions: Can someone identify Q1 and Q2? Their markings may be clearer on your own unit than on mine. Q1 may be "18" or "183". Q2 is very unclear but might be "13" or "132". Q3 is definitely "14" (etched) although it's not visible in this pic. Does anyone have a spare PSU for sale, or the daughterboard from a broken one? Converting a regular new ATX power supply to IIsi may just involve some rewiring and a logic inverter between /PFW and PWR_ON. Indeed I found this post: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28901-microquadra-630/page-3 Is this approach known to work for a IIsi?
  2. Hello, Introduction : This is a quick guide on how I upgraded the PSU on my Performa 6200. This guide applies to all macs which share the same case (Quadra/LC/Performa 630, Performa/PowerMac 62XX/63XX) PowerSupplys inside this case are an afterthought. They are badly designed and the first cause of dead of Quadra 630 / Performa 6200 and friends. The case cooling doesn't help, but this PSU model is especially bad. About 80% of causes on this models are a blown PSU. You can't even put any PSU that fits, because the PSU is also used as a guide for the logic board. If it makes this sound : sound.m4a, It's about to blow up, mine died a few minutes after this (with a spectacular bang, as expected) The caps evaporated/overheated into the case, which can result in stuff like this : There is also overheating marks around some parts : Note : the diagram pictures comes from the following thread, thanks to @Floofies for his work. Hardware needed - 74HC04 in DIP Format - DIP14 socket - 10kΩ resistor - 7kΩ resistor - Heat shrink tubbing - SFX Power Supply (NOT SFX-L those won't fit, just standard SFX) Tools needed - Set of screwdrivers - Drill - Metal Saw The PSU I choose for this project was the Enermax Revolution SFX 550W (ERV550SWT) for the following reasons: - It's decent quality enough, don't want to kill a collectible Mac with a cheap PSU - It's passive until 165W (usefully in this case) - I had it lying around - It has a multitude of protections most of which the original PSU doesn't have : short circuit protection over voltage protection under voltage protection (brownout) over current protection over temperature protection (yep !) over power protection surges and inrush current protection. You can choose any SFX PSU you like, but I recommend at least over temperature protection in this case, and it has to provide at least : - 80mA on +5VFSB (Standby Power) - 8A on +5V - 3A on +12V - 200mA on -12V Process : First you need to open the patient, remove the Logic Board and unplug the following wires from the PSU : - Fan power (two wires, red and black) - 6 Pins small grey cable near the Fan connector (used to boot the system + power the keyboard) - PSU Connector (the big square one with blue/black/red wires) Now you can usually remove the old PSU. Here it is against the SFX PSU You need three components from the old PSU : - Logic board connector - Fan connector - Power Loom (cut as close as possible from the old PCB) - Power Socket (same, cute as close as possible) Remove the new PSU from its case : Cut the bottom of the case to it can fit inside the old PSU. You only need the plate on which the PCB is fixed. Secure it into the old PSU case. You need to drill a hole to reuse one or more of the old screws and use the rail which was previously used by the old PCB. If your PSU has a power distribution board (like mine), remove it (cut the wires as close as possible from the PCB). I wanted to use it first, but it's really difficult inside this case. Now the straightforward (and time consuming part): - Weld the old power loom to the new PSU - Remove unused power wires from the new PSU - Weld the old power socket to the new PSU The tricky part: Build a boot signal concerter to convert the Mac Power Signal to the ATX one You can use a PCB or make it redneck style. Please insulate the components with everything you can : electric tape, glue, heat shrink tubing, concrete, whatever. I admit not being proud of this part Secure everything and put back the old PSU cover plate : Back in the case And voilà ! Booted first try Hope this will be useful for somebody. Took me 4-5 hours to to the whole thing Good hacking !
  3. I recently bought a Performa 450 which was in very good condition, no visible leakages, blown-up batteries etc. When I power it on, I can only hear a clicking sound from the speaker. Fan is working correctly. I measured output of the PSU and so far it looks like I'm getting wrong voltage on +12V and +5V lines. It fluctuates around +8.5V and +2.8V respectively. -5V line shows correct voltage though. Do I have faulty voltage regulators or should I recap the PSU? It's one of the Dyna Comp (not TDK). Close-up photos attached.
  4. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  5. Recapping a Macintosh IIsi Power Supply Related reference (cheat sheet): http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/ or on archive.org, http://web.archive.org/web/20191125110228/http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/
  6. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  7. Hey gang, I could cry like a baby... Restaurated my Q950, cleaned it, gave it a nice retrobright sunbath, tidied-up the A/UX installation and being annoyed by the loud fan, I went for the final step replacing it with something more silent and while at it, I gave the PSU a good blow of fresh air to undust it. Power-on and..... bzzzzzzt, poof, holy smoke. The PSU went the way of the dodo (Nope, the polarity of the fan was correct) - Only god knows if it was the undusting or just about time to die... So here's my request for help: a) How do I get that damn PSU opened?! All screws removed and it's clear that there are 2 case parts sticked together but they don't move a bit From the outside I can see a bursted varistor near the back-end of the PSU. So that's where the smoke came from... b) Does anybody know where to get a new Q9xx PSU preferably in Europe (given its weight)? Thanks for helping & Cheers, Axel
  8. I'm in the planning process to recap the SONY PSU housed inside my Apple HD20SC external hard drive enclosure. (I might make a video.) I've got a Mouser cart filled with mostly Organic Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors for that PSU (see below), which have very low ESR down to between 12mΩ and 43mΩ. There are many benefits to low ESR capacitors, and the life rating on them is very high compared to regular aluminum electrolytics. But my concern is that the output of some switch-mode (switching) power supplies can ring if the ESR of the output capacitance is too low (as per the data sheets of many switch mode controllers), so do any of you have a schematic? If not, have any of you used a large number of Organic Polymer capacitors in your vintage Mac PSU recap jobs with success? (I'm asking about power supplies here. Non-PSU applications don't matter much. Mostly those cases are a decoupling/bypass caps which hold up the voltage in times of voltage dips, and those caps benefit from very low ESR.) Here's my Mouser list of mostly polymer caps: C226: 22uF 35V, D=5.2mm -- (Mouser: A759BQ226M1HAAE075) C202: 47uF 25V, D=5.2mm -- (Mouser: A750EK476M1EAAE040) C222: 47uF 25V, D=5.2mm -- (same as C202, so get 2pcs) C109: 150uF 400V, H=32mm, D=25.8mm -- (Mouser: 860021383023) C110: 4.7uF 350V H=32mm, D=12.8mm -- (Mouser: UPM2G4R7MHD) C210: 330uF 16V, D=8.1mm -- (Mouser: RL81C331MDN1KX) C215: 470uF 10V, D=8.1mm -- (Mouser: RNE1C471MDN1) C213: 22uF 100V, D=10.2mm -- (Mouser: A759MS226M2AAAE045) C124: 2200uF 10V, D=12.7mm -- (Mouser: UHE1C222MHD) C209: 2200uF 16V, D=12.7mm -- (just buy the same as C124, so get 2pcs) CR-35 daughter card: C181: 100uF 10V, D=8.1mm, H=13.5mm -- (Mouser: RNS1A101MDN1KX) C182: 100uF 10V, D=8.1mm, H=13.5mm -- (same as C181, so get 2pcs)
  9. Picked up an old, very dusty Macintosh 7100/66 from a guy in Cincinnati about a year or so ago. Worked for a while but one day I heard some crackling noises coming from within the PSU. Unplugged it very quickly and cracked open the PSU to find the devastating scene in the attached photo. I noticed one of the IC's was fried pretty badly, so I bought a replacement and installed it. However, upon plugging in the power supply a second time, the IC fried in the same exact way it had before. I've circled it red in one of the attached photos. I really have no idea how this PSU works, but what might be frying that little chip? I'm OK at soldering, but still pretty bad at diagnosing component-level issues. I also have a lower-end fluke multi-meter so I can check diodes, capacitance, and that sort of thing. In fact, I checked the two larger caps and they were still functioning. Thanks to anyone who can give some advice! Edit: Just realised I put this in the Apple II Category by mistake. Could a mod help me move it to the PowerPC category? Thanks.
  10. SE30_Neal

    Is this Circuit board normal

    Hi Guys, i brought a used a/b analogue board/sony psu combo as a temporary replacement for my se/30’s whilst i recap and clear up my original items. The replacement board is from an SE which I believe is identical? Basically I’ve been experiencing some minor shimmers/flickering especially when cold (3-4 months now) so i thought it was about time to re-cap both my analogue board and psu as the motherboard had already been recapped some time ago, including a new battery. Question is psu board looks a little unusual, at first i though it was spilt liquid of leaking capacitors yet on inspection the caps all look great; no swelling, no residue, no corroded tracers. I used a q-tip to clean the edge and nothing came off. Its almost like varnish. Is this normal on the sony PSU? neal
  11. In October, I was lucky enough to be asked to "dispose" of a PowerMac G4 Cube. It was complete but very dirty having being left in an outdoor shed for 11 years! I brought it home and gave it a clean, connected it, crossed my fingers and plugged it in. The fuse immediately blew in the plug and from researching the problem, it looked like the psu had died. As I couldn't get into the PSU and was quoted a lot of money to fix it, I bought an LED power supply rated at 28V, 250W and tried that. This time the computer booted up and ran. It worked fine for a few days except that there was a CD stuck in the drive. The CD was read by the computer and iTunes ripped it without an issue but it would not eject. After a few days of normal use, I plugged in the PSU and heard a sparky sound and there was an "electrical" smell. Since then, the cube has been unresponsive. I checked the PSU with a multimeter and it is still producing 28.0V. Could anyone offer any next steps in fault finding? I managed to use this machine to get hooked. It is very pretty and has pride of place on my desk. The keyboard and mouse were nice to use and it was usable on Mac OS 10.3.9. The last time it was started previously was 2007! I love macs and already have a 2005 PowerBook and a 2008 MacBook Air (both in regular use)
  12. Jon183

    Powermac 8100 ATX PSU wiring

    Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows how to rewire a standard ATX PSU to use in a powermac 8100, my IIci uses one and I have another spare for the 8100. Also, will soft power work straight away?
  13. I recently got involved in reverse engineering the power architecture of the Quadra 630, in order to do an ATX PSU conversion. One thing I noticed is the large differences in component values between models, and implementations. Now I am very interested in finding out what the differences are and what causes them, so there is a definitive "map" of these conversions per-model. I will be making a chart/graph showing implementation differences between different conversion methods. All I ask of the community is information. If you have done a conversion: what model Mac did you use, how did you do it, did it work, what were the specific components used, and their values? I'll also be compiling data from what I can find that's readily available, I expect I'll be taking a deep-dive into the snitz archive for this one.
  14. I will admit it's been about five years since i fired up the ole' classic. When I tried to last night, there was a disturbing loud humm (electrical sounding) coming from the PSU area. I opened her up and all the boards are good, no exploded caps or PRAM batteries that I could see. Of course I don't know much about CRT tubes or PSU's so i left those alone not wanting to electrocute myself. Has anyone encountered this before? I do have a local electronics guy who is a wizard with soldering and electronics and has been doing it professionally for 35 years. If this is something that could be easily fixed I would like to do so before salvaging parts and going the Macquarium route. Thanks!
  15. Hello everybody, It seems that I took the PSU from IIcx in and out too often (I was investigating floppy problems). The machine won't start any more. A member here suggested that I could use a PSU from a PM7100 (of which I happen to have one lying around). Both PSUs have the same form-factors, both are made by Astec and the details are as follows: Thing being measured IIcx PM7100 Model Number AA15830 AA16870 Made in Malaysia The Philippines Apple Part No. 699-0392 614-0009 Output: +5V (both) 1mA Continuous Output: +5V 12A 15A Output: -12V 1.0A 0.6A Output: +12V 1.5A 2.5A Input (both) 100-240V; 50-60 Hz; 6A (AC output) Receptacle (both) 100-240V; 50-60 Hz; 3A Is it safe/wise to use the PM7100 PSU in the IIcx? My gut-feeling says no, but when others have done it without damage to the PSU or motherboard, then I'll give it ago. The IIcx motherboard was re-capped by He-whose-Name-is-not-spoken-of-around-here-no-more some summers ago. Thanks very much all, aa
  16. Floofies

    Q630 Dyna-Comp PSU

    From the album: Schematics & Designs

  17. Challenger 1983


    I was reading about the dangers of not replacing PSU capacitors on PowerBook duos, and today I get my one chance to go by capacitors so I need schematics for the 210
  18. Hi folks. Yesterday, I finished reassembling the PM G5. It is, as you probably know, a long and tedious process. Plugged it to the outlet and immediately after that, 3 LEDs lit up: Processor A, Processor B and Trickle Power. I thought the Processors weren't aligned properly but no. It seems the PSU isn't outputting anything on the processor side... I get 0 Volts at the power bus bar, and 0V at either CPU terminals. The logic board gets power though through the connector located near the plug. The other connector (towards the front of the unit) doesn't appear to be doing anything. LED #3 "Power On" isn't on. (The air deflection sensor works: The Trickle power LED is off when the air deflector (aka plastic translucent door) is on and off when the door isn't there.) So I definitely have a bad PSU. So now, I have to tear it down again! Damn thing! [Rant mode engaged] What were they doing? Why is it so complicated to remove the PSU? Why isn't there a door on the bottom of the Mac to take the PSU out? Grrr!!! [Rant mode disengaged] Rant aside, does anybody have an idea why it does not work? I got this Mac for under $10 so I'd like to get a cheap fix. If not I'll probably have to get a replacement part (bit costly though!) What do you think of that reseller? I did take it apart to clean it before even testing the PowerMac (I'm a dummie). So maybe there's something missing in there? Will report back with pictures of the insides next Sunday.
  19. I have a monstrous Attila the Mac 950 Quadra tower that is a fantastic machine. Works great with one strange startup quirk: Before powering on, I have to turn off the power to the machine (using a power strip on/off button), then on again immediately prior to powering up the 950. If I do this it boots 100% of the time, very reliably. If I DON'T do this power strip on/off step, the machine fails to boot properly and hangs with a grey screen at startup. Very reliably. BTW I didn't just stumble up on this startup workaround, I found a hint during my hours of googling vintage mac startup problems and going through my old mac reference books. But alas I have been unable to find the source of this tip, which might provide hints as to what's going on and what I can do about it. Replacing the PSU is one obvious option to try ... but perhaps it's the board that's faulty? Anybody here have experience or knowledge of this issue? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Craig
  20. I have several working IIci macs and have been trying to get one in nice shape complete with a recap to set up in my working vintage mac office. Power supplies seem quirky and sometimes mysterious, so I thought I might post some of my observations here and see if any collective wisdom or similar experience might help guide my next steps. Back in December I did some testing to sort out which machine to have recapped. In testing, it seemed all 3 machines suffered from a strange symptom where the on-board power button had to be held down in order to sustain power. Strange. Anyone seen this before? The only thing I did after this testing was to use compressed air to clean them out some. I have 3 power supplies: 2 Delta and 1 Astec. Photos with testing notes attached. My newly recapped IIci is completely dead with both Delta power supplies. The other IIci motherboards work fine with these same PSUs, powering up with both the keyboard and the on-board power switch. One board lacks sound, which I'm guessing is a symptom of needing to be recapped. So the Delta PSUs seem fine, suggesting a problem with my newly recapped IIci. The Astec PSU works ok with one of the unmodified IIci boards, but with the other (which lacks sound) powered on once and then off once, never to be powered up again with the Astec PSU. Retesting this board with a Delta PSU and it again powers up fine. Oddly, the Astec PSU DOES power up my recapped IIci intermittently, and only with the keyboard. I have to press hard, sometimes twice but if I play around enough it powers up and then behaves fine. Strange stuff. What I conclude from all this is I have a problem with the newly recapped board, and I probably should recap the IIci which still boots cleanly with sound. Any insights on any of this appreciated. I have another strange PSU issue with a Quadra 950 which I'll post in a separate thread. Thanks all for taking the time to read this! Craig
  21. ArmorAlley

    Recapping - Current thinking

    Hello everybody, What is the current thinking in regards to recapping boards with orginal caps that work? I^m thinking particularly of the SE, SE/30 and Colour Classic. For the latter two, something is not working, the SE works. My initial thinking was that these machines are over 20 years old and will need new capacitors anyway. Some posters have commented, especially for the SE, that if it is not broken, do not fix it. Is preventative action wise? unnecessary? My second question concerns what should be recapped? I was initially thinking of just getting the mainboard recapped. Again, from reading through posts as well as in general online, it seems that one should get both the PSU and the analog board done as well. Is this also wise and or unnecessary? Getting the machines recapped is pricey (I really do not like soldering), but if I can get give these machines another 25-plus years of service, it will be worthwhile, well, until the CRT finally packs it in and I have to replace it with some wonder-LCD replacement. I am interested to hear your opinions, aa
  22. Hello! My Macintosh Performa 6110CD has stopped working, powering it on makes a ticking noise and the power led starts flashing. What's interesting is the performa was working just fine yesterday, I tested it thoroughly. I'm pretty sure this is the PSU but I'd like to confirm that it is; the performa is connected to a high end surge protector. I removed all the molex power connectors to the CD and Hard drive and the ticking is quieter and faster when I power it on. Is this the PSU? and if so what can I do about this? I don't have any soldering iron equipment or experience. Thanks for reading.
  23. jua958

    Powerbook Revival Fight

    Hi guys! I bought this Powerbook 165 on eBay for 10 quid last week, the seller already stated that it was broken but I liked the idea of having a project to repair a Powerbook. At the end I would like this to become a big guide so other people with similar problems will find it helpful. So far I found these problems: [solved] Power Adapter: At first the Powerbook won't turn on, testing the PSU with my multimeter I found that it wasn't given the correct voltage (the correct is 7.5V), a quick recap and it was up and running! (well, up and giving power). Now the Powerbook boots but I found other problems. Trackball: When I use the trackball it only moves the cursor vertically, disassembling it I found something interesting: When the ball is inserted on the centre of the board, due to the weight of it the wheel mechanism is slightly moved, The y-axis sensors can still capture movement but the x-axis sensors cannot, if I take away the ball and turn the wheels manually both sensors work. Maybe the x-axis sensors doesn't have enough power? I replaced the 2 transistors on the board and it still gives the same result. I tried to bend the sensors a bit but it still won't work and I don't think is the correct solution. Here are some pics to understand the mechanism: Here is the trackball board, the x-axis sensors are on the upper-right corner This is the trackball board with the wheels And finally a zoomed picture showing the x-axis sensors with the front wheel, it slightly move left when the ball is inserted Screen: Ugly lines appear until I mess with the contrast and brightness controls, capacitor problem or irreversible? Energy distribution: This is odd, sometimes the hard drive only turns on when I turn off the screen, and sometimes the laptop shuts itself down, the PSU is giving the correct voltage. Hard drive: Doesn't appear to detect it, does some strange sounds when it turns on. ​ Any help, and I mean ANY will be VERY appreciated, I'll be updating the list and posting solutions as we go.
  24. This one is interesting as I just ran into a few minutes ago as of this post. Turn on LC III, it "Bongs!", and nothing else. No Video, no nothing. Strangely, though I did not notice it at first, the fan is howling at a high speed. This was an LC III I recapped last year with Tantalum Caps that works. So I flicked the switched a couple more times - the same thing but at times it sounds like a half "Bong" instead of the full "Bong." A couple of times it did not even do that. I thought, "Did my LC III died after a recap like some other Macs did on this forum?" I tried a known bad LC PSU that "Flubs." And it "Flubs" like it always did. But I notice that the fan was slower in speed and not howling. I took it as the PSU being bad and dismissed it. Then I tried a Good PSU from an LC. The LC III "Bongs" normally, video came up and then I got a flashing disk icon (it has no hard drive). So the LC III is fine! BUT the fan was spinning slower and not howling. By the process of elimination, the PSU is bad. It's obvious that it will need a recap. That's a given. But the fan over-revving, is that a sign of over-voltage? Is one of my regulars blown out? What you experts think? EDIT: This is the Astec LC PSU, not the TDK LC PSU.