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I have a Hard Disk 20SC external SCSI drive enclosure that has a SCSI ID selector switch on back. Because I am using a non-stock IBM DGHS 4.5GB drive inside, I've left the SCSI ID select switch cable disconnected. But I am eager to change the SCSI ID on the fly. Here's a photo of the drive label, showing the SCSI ID jumper settings: I believe the precise jumper settings follow what is shown on page 17 of this PDF. And here's a photo of the inside of my HD20SC (a still image from my PSU recapping video): It seems that an ST-225N was the stock drive and its SCSI ID jumpers seem to correspond to that blue connector in my above photo: What I am curious about is how the HD20SC's SCSI ID selector cable works. I haven't yet torn apart my HD20SC to figure it out myself. I will do that, but I wanted to post here first. The above ST-225N diagram shows 4 pairs of pins that can be shorted to select SCSI ID, but the drive enclosure's blue connector only has a 6-wire cable, meaning it could only control 3 pairs, not 4. Any thoughts?
This repair was rather simple, but Digikey sent a substituted part. I ordered these clips as they are the same ones used on the LC PSU connector. They sent another type that does fit the pins on the motherboard. But it was a rabid female dog to put it in the plastic Molex connector. This LC-TDK failed because for some reason the connectors corroded and pulling on the wires, they popped off with a broken clip on the end! Trying to shove the wires back in the connector made the LC make a "Flub Flub Flub" noise when it was turned on. The corrosion on the remaining clip was black on the silver part and green on the inner copper core. The PSU also needed a recapping but the connector clips needed to be replaced first. Replacing it fixed the PSU that it can turn on an LC. But it also produced a fish smell indicating that the caps need replacement. Biggest hints as to the clips needing replacement - 1) the space where the clip is in is dark, almost black. 2) When you grab it and pull on it, a wire pops off. You wont be able to get it back in to make a good electrical connection. 3) When you try to fish the remaining connector out to try and solder it, it falls apart. 4) Solder wont hold onto the corroded pieces. To replace the connector, you need to pry open the clip at the wire end and pull the wire out. Cutting the wire and trimming the insulation will make the wire harness too short and you need to pull and stress it to get it on to the board. The wire needs to be as intact as possible from the clip. Since I had to use a replacement clip, I had to fudge with it inside the plastic of the connector until it fit and lined up inside. And like I said, it works without the "Flub Flub Flub" noise, though the fish smell says it needs a recap. That's next on the list.