Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'caps'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Important Information
    • The 68kMLA Forum Rules
  • Community Connections
    • General 68kMLA News & Stuff
    • Conquests
    • Trading Post
  • Projects & Hosted Forums
    • RetroChallenge
    • 68kMLA Wiki
  • 68k Model Forums
    • Compact Mac
    • Mac II, Quadra & Centris
    • 68k LC & Performa
    • 68k PowerBook
  • PowerPC Model Forums
    • NuBus Power Mac, LC & Performa
    • PCI Power Mac & Performa
    • G3/G4/G5 Power Mac, iMac & eMac
    • PPC PowerBook & iBook
  • Everything Elseā€¦
    • Apple I, ][, /// & Lisa
    • Newton
    • Software
    • Hacks & Development
    • Peripherals

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL












Found 8 results

  1. Hey Guys, I have a color classic that has worked great though the years. Tried to turn it on this week and got nothing... I guess the caps finally went. Opened it up and had a little leakage, cleaned up with Isopropyl and ordered some caps from console5. Caps arrive and I replaced them but it still doesn't power on I started reading all the previous posts here and started checking voltages and traces. What I found out was, the system WILL power up when the board is removed. As soon as I plug in the board the system immediately shuts off. I checked the Analog Board Voltage and have a good 5v and 11.95v. After messing around I was able to get the board to go in and the system stayed on, but i only got a black screen with horizontal lines. After I took the board back out and inspected it I found the Ti 9307XN Chip in the upper right corner by the 2 100 and 47 caps was very HOT!!! Checked the traces around it and could not find anything off. Maybe this is the problem ? I am hoping you guys can help
  2. Hi All, I got a chance to inspect each of the 3 SE/30 motherboards I have for 2 systems. It has been a few years since I have looked at these and I am pretty certain I sent 2 of these away for a recap job however I am not an capacitor expert and could use help identifying the work done on each. Apology in advance for the quality of the photos. This is the board that came in my original SE/30: I thought I had this one worked however those appear to be the original caps. Is that correct? This is a socketed board I got off of eBay that looks like work has been done to it: This is the board that came with a system that had a Daystar 030 Accelerator attached to the board. The original non-socketed CPU was removed for the Daystar to plug into, however, the photo has the stock CPU inserted... This one too looks like it has had work done however the caps are different than the stock socketed board... THx!
  3. Hello people! I recently acquired a Mac Plus while doing a clean out of my grandfather's old factory. The keyboard and mouse were FUBAR, as they had been left under an old can of paint which leaked all over them. He said that there was also a hard drive somewhere, but we couldn't find it. I scrubbed as much old paint of this Mac as I could, and besides from a rather even coat of yellowing, it seems to be in pretty good nick. I took it home and plugged it in, and it made the start up bong and the floppy drive made noises, but the screen never fired up. I cracked open the case and besides some dust, everything seemed to be in relatively good shape. No caps were leaking, and nothing looked corroded. I also discovered that this Mac had 4Mb of RAM. Nice! I came to the realisation that this Mac had deeper problems. I noticed when I found the Mac, that it had LOTS of screen burning, which indicated to me that the CRT as a whole could have just bit the dust, or that the flyback transformer was completely screwed. Further poking around inside the machine also revealed that the CRT power connector looked like it was burned or melted. I thought while I had it open, I'd perform the cap change just in case, for longevity if I ever got this thing working. I couldn't find all the correct caps, so I used some higher volt ones, and there was one blue non-polar one that I didn't change at all. Upon firing this up after the change, it worked! I have no idea why the cap change fixed it, non of the caps seemed damaged in the slightest, I verified this when I removed them. No residue or anything! So now I have a semi working Mac, but I have 2 issues which I'm unsure of how to fix. The computer makes a REALLY REALLY high pitched squealing noise. I think this may be the flyback transformer, but I'm not sure. UPDATE: When I fired up the machine to take the photos in this post, the noise was gone! I'm unsure if it will come back, has anyone else had this problem? It's also VERY hard to insert floppies into the drive. The seem to be stuck on something, I'm not sure what though (I've made sure it's aligned correctly). Also, sometimes when I put them in, the jitter around in my hand like crazy until whatever mechanism in there stops, and I can finally insert the disk! And on top of that, the auto eject doesn't seem to be working, but I'm not that familiar with macs that boot directly from disk, as my other mac (a mac classic) is currently not working AND it has a hard drive. I also have no boot disk to test this machine further. Let me know what you guys think!
  4. I will admit it's been about five years since i fired up the ole' classic. When I tried to last night, there was a disturbing loud humm (electrical sounding) coming from the PSU area. I opened her up and all the boards are good, no exploded caps or PRAM batteries that I could see. Of course I don't know much about CRT tubes or PSU's so i left those alone not wanting to electrocute myself. Has anyone encountered this before? I do have a local electronics guy who is a wizard with soldering and electronics and has been doing it professionally for 35 years. If this is something that could be easily fixed I would like to do so before salvaging parts and going the Macquarium route. Thanks!
  5. quinnmacdonald

    Color Classic High-Res VGA mod

    Hi everyone, I have a working Color Classic, have installed an LC575 motherboard, and ResEdited the system file so the Color Classic boots ok. Everything works great. However, I want to modify the hardware so that I don't have to edit the system file in the future (it's nothing to ResEdit the system, I just like being able to do install the OS with no software mods). I also want 640x480 at the higher refresh rate. Question 1 re: High res VGA To do the 640x480 upgrade, I plan to use this http://colourclassicfaq.com/highres/. However, it does not appear to address the higher load on the capacitors, so I plan to do what this page suggests as well: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?%2Ftopic%2F24911-color-classic-vga-mod-questions%2F. Does anyone else have any other suggestions or pitfalls to avoid before I dive in? Question 2 re: system board mod If I understand correctly, removing R116 and replacing R109 with a 4.7K ohm resistor as per http://colourclassicfaq.com/mobo/mystic.shtmlmeans I won't have to resedit the system file anymore. Do I even need to do this mod if I do the High res VGA mod? Tks Quinn
  6. I was hunting on eBay, and found this sweet setup with Optical Digital Audio Out! Couldn't resist! http://www.ebay.com/itm/151960697131?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And the reason things will be different this time is because of UNISERVER! I found him recently on eBay while hunting and found out why my last 3 840s died! I new they had capacitors but I didn't know they leaked and ruin the boards! So, when this one shows up tomorrow it's boot, backup, board out, box it! I am pumped tho, cause I feel I should be able to get 10 years out of this "newish" 840 and then send it out the UNISERVER again in 10 years to get it recapped! Awesome!!
  7. My much loved 180 has succumb to tunnel vision and is now used with an external display. Still wanting to take a 1xx around with me, I was given a very nice 180c with a few goodies: system disks, VST ThinPack, and a snazzy case. The 180c is in nice condition save for an annoying trackball but at least it has a port door. After a few disappointments with some 68k portables, I really want this 'Book to be a reliable travel machine. The SCSI drive is tiny and noisy, so I think a CF adaptor is in its future. Any recommendation on the best CF speed rating? I cleaned the trackball innards but it feels like there is a physical problem. Is the solution only a new mouse/keyboard unit? No cracks that I can see in the housing or gunk in the springs. VST ThinPack- salvageable cells? I haven't plugged it in yet but I also know very little about them. I'm assuming its NiMH. I don't have the manual to know for how long to leave it plugged in, but I'm assuming the little LED will tell me. Recapping- No apparent problems so far save for a small speaker pop before an alert sound. Would it be prudent to recap anyway due to age? I have no confidence (or time) to recap myself. Are there any members here who run a save-the-mobo service? Same for replacing the backlight? Lastly, the LCD housing is still quite snug but the left side is starting to pull away. Is there a better solution than glue? I can see the LCD pull away from the front bezel just slightly when gently closing the lid. I haven't done a tear down just yet. I am still basking in the newness and starting to take stock of what needs to be done.
  8. I recently acquired a working, but neglected Quadra 840AV. It came with 3 hard drives installed, an original CD-ROM drive, and with a 64 MB of RAM. It clearly needed a total recap of a motherboard and a good cleanup, which I did. Then I tested the machine, and I found out that a CD-ROM drive wasn't detected, even that it was connected properly. I figured out that it must be the drive that failed. Then I cracked open the Sony CDU561-25 drive, and to my surprise, I found capacitors that have leaked and corroded the PCB. The damage was quite bad, but fixable. There was a group that leaked, and they were three 16V 47uF and two 16V 10uF silver electrolytic SMDs. On the left side of the PCB, there were four 6.3V 100uF that looked okay, but when I changed them, they were certainly on their way to fail (fishy smell). So when I replaced them all with tantalums, the CD-ROM drive now works flawlessly, and I know that they won't leak ever again. Also, I was impressed with the build quality of this particular drive, it is massive and it has a voice coil laser mechanism, which just screams high quality all around. So, next time your CD-ROM drive fails, check the caps inside the unit. Also, if you have a Sony CDU561-25 or similar, it will be the smart idea to change the caps just to be sure, even if they are not leaking. Sometimes the CD-ROM unit will cost alone more than a complete computer, so it is worth it.