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    Surrey, UK (near London)
  • Interests
    Amongst other things I enjoy fixing up classic Macs and have a small collection that includes Mac Portable, Mac Plus, SE & SE/30, IIcx, IIci, IIfx, Classic II, PB170, PB180c, LC III & 475 & 630, PM7600, PMG4, Pismo, and a few Mac OS X types...

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  1. Count me in too please. Would be nice to have more than 8Mb in my IIfx...
  2. jjclay

    Cards and drives

    Another method of freeing up the grease was mentioned here: https://macgui.com/news/article.php?t=431 ...heat it up in an oven to soften the old grease. Also try some WD-40 which you've probably got around the house. I also keep some Xylene on hand, which works wonders (though it is nasty stuff, so you might want to wear a mask) Where can I find this Sony test app? JD
  3. jjclay

    IIfx | IINTX 64-pin SIMMs

    Hi Joe. I'm keen to get some IIfx 64-pin SIMMs for my IIfx, if and when these may become available. Sign me up
  4. jjclay

    HELP: 120V Macintosh Plus analog board blowing F1 fuse

    Hi Will. You mentioned the previous owner had connected it to 240v instead of 120v, and that had blown the fuse. I think it likely that some other component has been fried before the fuse went. I checked the failure mode of X2 and my money is now on that: When a Class-X capacitor, also referred to as an "across the line capacitor"—the capacitor placed between line and neutral—fails because of an overvoltage event, it is likely to fail short. This failure, in turn, would cause an overcurrent protective device, like a fuse or circuit breaker, to open. Ref: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/ I’d test for a short across X2’s pins next...it might be new looking but you didn’t replace it, right? JD
  5. jjclay

    HELP: 120V Macintosh Plus analog board blowing F1 fuse

    Hi Will Bilbit is spot on - regardless of AB variant designation, your Mac Plus AB needs to say "International" for it to be able to be converted between 120v and 240v (see first pic below). My 120v Mac Plus (which was made in California!) does say International on the AB, and FWIW the AB model number is also 630-0102 (with no letter designation after it - there were many) and alternate part number on other side of AB is 820-0107-D (yours probably says 820-0082-E). Mine was made by Capetronic (Taiwan) during 40th week of 1988, a couple of years after your 1986 board. I've attached a few pics below for interest. There was an earlier thread from 2007 which compared a bunch of Mac Plus (and Mac 512k etc.) AB variants, which I can't find a link to but it was titled "Mac 128k ~ Plus Analog Board Analysis" (neither Google or 68kmla search can find it, but I kept a copy in Evernote, phew!). In terms of diagnosis, I'd first start by making sure your transformer is setup right. Check its settings and use a multimeter to double check what mains voltage its feeding the Mac Plus. Maybe its not 120v after all? Then make sure you have the correct fuse replacement. Even though you've a 120v machine, you need a 250v 2.5A fuse (specifically, according to my AB a normal blow UL fuse for 120v - I can see some of this marked in your AB pic). By comparison my International AB operating on 240v needs a 250v 1.6A Type T fuse, and jumper W12 removed. See pic below for this guidance from my Mac. Assuming you have a multimeter, once the input voltage and fuse check out I'd then check diodes & look for one that may have failed as a short in the rectifier area CR23,24,25,26, then check the other diodes. R55 can also be an issue - but normally this fails open and just results in a blank screen, not a blown fuse. Also check for other shorts (e.g. due to sloppy re-soldering following a recap). Then I'd focus on other components in the mains voltage area. That's all the ideas I have for now, but I'm sure others who've been at this more than me can offer more advice. JD
  6. jjclay

    HELP: 120V Macintosh Plus analog board blowing F1 fuse

    Hi Will. Just taken delivery of a Mac Plus 120v here in the UK, and plan to convert it to 240v (the “International” ABs we’re designed to support both 120v and 240v, by simply changing some wire links and a few other components). Can you tell us which specific model of AB you have? There were at least 4 designs. With regards your fuse blowing, I’d suggest you start by checking the “safety capacitors”. These are designed to blow open, but the Y caps connect line and neutral to earth, and if these are bad it can trip the RCD (earth leakage device connected to your mains fuse board). Depending on your AB model, you may find them at C33 and C36 (square RIFA Y capacitors), and C37 (large RIFA X2 capacitor which if the original can produce “magic smoke” ). Hope that helps...
  7. Now that would be cool (and is a potential fresh batch of colour ribbons an incentive?) My boys think “laser printers” when they want to print. Would be great to show them how it used to be done (with lots of noise and time!)...I have an old ImageWriter II on my “get it working” project list I’ll have to take a look at.
  8. Hi JDW I'm sure it'll ship fine at this end, and will mark it appropriately so it travels as reliably as possible. Looks like I'd bought the last two from this ebay reseller in the UK - see listing here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372940190399. Yes, they buy a big 1kg tin and part it out into smaller tins. There is another selling doing the same but he's asking £10/tin instead of £4: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Em-30l-Grease-for-audio-equipment-UK-Seller-100-Genuine/192930439743?hash=item2ceb8ce23f:g:swgAAOSwMmhedf1F, and I think he's just about fully sold out his big tin too... One of the claims for this grease is that it is "long life", which is reassuring. Don't want anything that'll dry out after just a few years. I removed a few gears simply by gently levering them up - I think the gears were held onto their spindles with just a friction fit (apart from the main metal gear which is fixed to the motor shaft). The next floppy drive I service (later this week, after I get the EM-30L probably on Wed) will get a "gearbox service and lube" too and I'll share the results - I'm expecting quieter running with less strain on the motor & gears JJD
  9. Good luck with the deliveries! I still seem to be getting stuff delivered from the US, mainland Europe and China OK - but a card from the in-laws in Australia was 2 months late (yes I'm an Aussie, just in 'Europe' - or not as Brexit suggest...). Australia Post & many other postal/delivery companies often hitch a ride on regular passenger flights and with almost all of those grounded, so has a lot of mail. JDW I've just ordered a small tin of EM-30L off a UK seller - was only £4. I'll pick another one up for you and test the postal services in your direction! PM me for details so I can post it on... Perhaps it's lack of lubrication in the "gearbox" itself? Did you put any of your silicone oil/grease in there? I use white lithium grease on metal-metal parts, but haven't put anything in the gearbox yet - maybe that's the root cause of the different pitch & not the plastic gear? I'll wait until the EM-30L arrives and clean out another Sony 800k (Mac portable needs its cleaned!) so I'll add that to the side by side comparison. JJD
  10. jjclay

    twenty one pilots - level of concern - new lyric video

    nicely done!
  11. Hi JDW I ordered a couple of gears off the Italian guy in your first link, and when they arrived last year I was pleasantly surprised with them. Having finally got around to my Mac Plus repairathon a week ago (some of which I filmed and inspired by you might put a video or two together), I got around to using one of the two replacement gears on an 800k Sony floppy drive whose gears had shredded in the typical way. My observations are: - the gears look high quality - being moulded there are no 3d printed lines etc. - don't know how the mound was obtained, but the gears they produce are a perfect fit - really easy to replace the old 'orange' gear - on first eject attempt, despite a full clean and sufficient lithium grease it seemed to eject a little 'strained' / slowly - but it worked fine - the next few times it works much better, but there is a distinct difference to the sound / tone of the eject action compared to the original gears which I still have in 3 of my Mac Pluses - have vide of a side by side comparison which if anyone is interested I'll quickly edit & upload I think that replacing the broken gear with a metal gear would just 'move the problem on' to the next gear in the assembly, so I wouldn't advocate this. My view is that in a 'friction fight' between a metal gear and a plastic one, the plastic one will lose every time I'd rather than if a part shears due to sticky grease, then at least let it be the one where you can source a replacement... cheers JJD P.S. I really appreciated your video on YouTube of the floppy clean & service - so thanks again for that. Having done a few now I've got this process down to about 30-40 mins. One thought / question though - other than IPA which I use does anyone use any other solvents to clean the steel frame/chassis parts? I've experimented with Xylene (yes it's bad for you but I wear protection!) and it cuts through grease & muck like magic, leaving sparkly clean steel... A tiny amount on a toothbrush is all it takes. Can go in with a swab and IPA for the finer parts after that.
  12. If you can see the SCSI2SD volumes, it is more likely to be a software issue. Do different SCSI2SD volumes have different System folders you can use (e.g. use the application "System Picker" to select the volume and specific system folder to boot from...). On my SCSI2SD I have different volumes with different System versions, and I can swap between them.
  13. Finally getting around to sorting through my little Mac collection, and breaking out the IPA, new caps and soldering iron !

  14. I’ve used this approach in the past too, and you’re right for a couple of quick files it works well. For larger files I used SCSI2SD but am also experimenting with a LocalTalk bridge - was aiming to keep my archives on my Synology NAS, which is great to access from Mac OS X machines, but not classic systems. For that I have a G4 Power Mac or my trusty Pismo PowerBook acting as my Classic & Mac OS X “bridge” (i.e. firing up Classic environment as needed). Also experimenting with a Farallon EtherTalk bridge, which I’ve had some success with but really need to get my versions of AppleTalk and Mac OS X (file sharing) sorted... Looking into the Raspberry Pi AppleShare server now too
  15. Thanks for posting this. I have an old colour pivot display but no cable, and can’t find an OEM cable at a reasonable cost so will break out the soldering iron and try to make one. Has anyone else followed the above wiring diagram and achieved success?