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  1. FacnyFreddy

    My Pismo lives again!

    They boot fine but running any apps long term burns them out. I has 2 SanDisk and a Sumsung card due an early death. CF tend to last longer and are faster, but, the lack of any form of cache limits their potential. I've just had much better success with mSATA for faster notebooks. My 5300's work fine with CF cards, though.
  2. Just to add, I replaced the power connector on a PB5300ce using a pair of "donor" units to get the right setup. I had to wick the solder on all the contacts for the connector several times before it would come out "gracefully". Then, I cleaned up everything and tinned the ends and now my working PB battery charges. Replacing caps requires patience and a good liquid (or really SOFT) solder and a roll of solder wick.. and then some. I taught myself howto "drag solder" surface mounted ICs this way... lots of trial and error.... good solder and liquid flux helps. BTW: I have a roll of electrical solder with lead in it that I use for repair jobs. It tends to flow a bit nicer and I don't have issues. since its stuff I keep, I'm not too ashamed to use it on vintage repairs.
  3. FacnyFreddy

    My Pismo lives again!

    Someone some where had posted a link to a setup where they had a flush mounted PMCIA card (USB) and managed to hack it to place an 802.11n fob just BARELY inside the metal case. Total hack job, but, it looks like it worked... but this was on a PC. The AmbiCom WL54-CF into a PCMCIA adapter gains you nothing... it doesn't support WPA2. (so, you are back to using TLS or WEP same as on your existing airport card, anyhow) Another option would be to get the PCMCIA card lines run to sit at the bottom of the case under the battery along with a USB fob. The only other thing I have seen is to grind down a USB fob to where it will still sit behind the back cover on the pismo. There were never any PC-CARD USB adapters that I know of. Just didn't exist, so, a true "internal" 802.11n solution is all but impossible unless you want to start to really hack things up.
  4. FacnyFreddy

    My Pismo lives again!

    Nice!!! I recommend evicting all the dust bunnies around the fan. A fan for mine had all but siezed up and managed to get it working with some 3-in-1 electric motor lubricant. (not a 100% perm fix, but, it work when I need it) I managed to hunt down an all metal heat synk to replace the composite one that was attached to my heat pipe. The 500MHz G4 does run a little warmer. I tried 550MHz on my G4 pismo and I found that the fan was working more often than I liked... so back to 500MHz it went. I've not had the best of luck with SD cards or CF cards with G3 systems. mSATA to IDE with either newer adapters or hunting down older Toshiba units (23/64/128GB) works for me. But, If there is room, I'll use an IDE-SATA adapter as it is less problematic. (even if oversized)
  5. FacnyFreddy

    Homebrew PRAM Batteries

    I found that stacking cr2032 or similar cells, I can make my own replacement dc pack to get an old camera working. An attempt to stack LR44 cells to come up with a pram battery was "mostly" successful. The power drain rendered it dead in less than a year. Rechargable vl2330 cells are 3v and "might" be swapped out with mr2032, like with Logitech wireless/solar keyboards. But the 2032 is a smaller diameter and 0.2mm thicker. YMMV Getting my home made prams working was one of my reasons for not recycling or auctioning off a pair of powerbooks.
  6. FacnyFreddy

    Pismo drive replacement - what type of SSD do I need?

    So, I decided to revisit the mSATA <-> IDE adapter from Ablecomm with the "red" board. What I found out is that the Ablecomm board "likes" Samsung PM851 and PM871 mSATA ssd drives (500GB or less)... it really HATES Toshiba branded mSATA boards. I'm going to see if this board with mSATA adapter will fit correctly with a $7 copper heat sink attached to help conduct heat away in my G4 Powerbook. NOTE: These need to be in "master" setting for drives... (no jumper on the end pins) The white/black mSATA <-> IDE 2.5 drives that are like $15 run a bit warmer but LOVE Toshiba branded mSATA SSD drives. I think they work with Hynix as well, but, I've not tested one first hand. NOTE: I don't believe these support any jumper settings from what I read else where. You use them "as is". I tested both boards in my Powerbook 5300 (Os 8.1), G3 Pismo (OS 9.2), and my G4 A1106 (OS 10.4 and 10.5).
  7. I can send you the contact info for a guy who did my G3-> G4 cpu swaps on my Pismos boards. I have a 400MHz and 500MHz G3 cpu boards that I upgraded each one to the MPC7410RX500LE (BGA). Could not be happier with the results... 100% reliable after upgrading the rom with OS updates.
  8. FacnyFreddy

    Powerbook 5300 Operating Systems

    I have 7.6 and 8.1 on my 5300cs and 5300ce and they run just fine. As far as suggestions, I would look at 8.5, but, I think 8.6 will require 30+ MB of RAM to be of any use. I had it working on my 5300ce with a full 64MB and SSD and is "acceptable", but, nearly as snappy as 7.6. Regards...
  9. FacnyFreddy

    NOS Batteries

    If you look inside the Pismo battery, there is no circuitry for a "counter". I have taken a factory battery and recharged it at least 30 times and the counter is not changed.
  10. FacnyFreddy

    PowerBook 1400c and mSATA SSD

    Never mind... I see that it was a 4GB mSATA. I don't recognize the brand, though. but, if the CF solution is working, then use that.
  11. FacnyFreddy

    PowerBook 1400c and mSATA SSD

    What size msata did you have in it on your 5500? On my older powerbooks, pre-Pismo/Lombard, I can only use it with <= 64GB mSATA drives, and only SanDisk or Toshiba brand. I find the 16GB SanDisk mSATA SSD is cheap and flexible. (but, I also backup to my A2SERVER network drive...) There is a model of the mSATA IDE adapter that is a smaller form factor that has a 3.3v/5v switch. I've not tested it, but, it might run it at lower voltage and reduce heat. Someone on the Thinkpad forums found a "hack" of sorts to put a different SMD resistor on one of the traces and got it down to 4VDC. I dislike running these mSATA drives at 5VDC, as that is the BLEEDING edge of what they are rated for. But, they work (a bit warm).
  12. FacnyFreddy

    Still hunting... Pismo BookEndz

    If anyone comes across a vintage BookEndz for a Pismo (no-SCSI) please let me know. I've been searching high and low, but, with no success. This is the one thing that has eluded me for nearly 15 years. I really wish I had snagged one when they were $99 as I was gifted my first Pismo from a co-worker. He had one in his office drawer that he used frequently when jacking into the monitors in the office cubicles (we could "squat" for upto 2 weeks back then, and folks just re-reserved the same one over... and over... and over again). Just so darn slick... Also a VST LS120 drive for the pismo/lombard as mine is shattered and looks like crap. (Tried to "fix" it with JBweld and it still is a beast to eject. I don't want to use it again lest I break it permanently)
  13. FacnyFreddy

    lithium batteries - longevity of them

    I don't think I have ever seen a Pismo battery "bulge" from age/elements like I have the "flat" cells in more modern powerbooks/macbooks. The round cell design tends to be more reliable, historically, but holds less power storage/in^3, which is why macs went away from the format years later. I charge up and discharge my pismo batteries 2-3 times a year, but, never run them completely empty.
  14. I've had VERY poor results with "new" 4/3 cells lasting any length of time. Tenergy are craptastic. Yeah, AA cells are "less" but easier to find/source and the smaller size gives you some extra room to work with.
  15. My NOS Pismo batteries tend to last about a month on their own, but, need to be plugged in the night before use. I have a pair of NOS 5300 packs. One holds a charge for a week (but runs for 4 hours under normal use) and is then useless. The other lasts 20min and then is "dead". both have excellent connectors/conductor pads. The one that is near-death is going to get "chopped" and I will finish putting in new Enloop Pro cells (AA - 2500mAH). Factory cells were 2000mAH. I did recell a NiMH battery for my old toshiba Satelite 133 pentium. I had to come up with a special adapter for holding the welding tool (10gage how wire that was 3mm apart at the tips) and used a 12v car battery with a car soleniod. Scary as hell the first time I tested the setup, but, having practiced on some test strips and dead AA cells, I got the hang of it. I used cheaper Engergizer 2300mAH AA cells as they were 1/2 the cost of the Enloop Pro but still are better than the factory 2000mAH cells. [NOTE: Both the Enloop and 2300mAH energizer cells are "leak proof" designs] I pre-charge all cells and run them down to ~10% using a flashlight and then charge them overnight before final installation. I found that Loctite 2 part epoxy with a dab of Testors olive drab paint (kid makes models) got the color just about perfect. The Loctite Epoxy "Plastic" Bonder is what I used and doesn't lend itself to cracking as bad. It is Nylon safe!