Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SlateBlue

  • Birthday 04/30/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

311 profile views
  1. SlateBlue

    Macintosh II Restoration

    I’ve already abided by the first rule of vintage Mac repair: Recap, recap, recap! All of the caps have been replaced. I don’t disagree that it’s a broken trace, but I can’t find any good schematics for the Mac II board. The one originally from Gamba is a little difficult for me to follow. Anyone have Apple or Bomarc schems for the Mac II logic board?
  2. SlateBlue

    Macintosh II Restoration

    I haven't looked at the links you provided yet. However, I did jump start the PSU with a single 3.6v battery and the computer did power on. I hear an audible "clunk" or "click" coming from the speaker, but there are no startup or death chimes. I reseated the CPU and MMU. It seems the MMU was not inserted into the socket correctly. Still, neither of these tasks made any difference. I suppose a bad MMU (perhaps destroyed by improper installation) may prevent the Mac from booting up. Anyone know of a way to test it? I should also note that there are no drives connected to the logic board. Does this matter? At least there are two things I now now: 1. I still have a problem somewhere in my power control circuit (likely thanks to the person who ripped the PRAM batteries out of the board). 2. The power supply is good, but the Mac fails to boot. Thanks again for the help!
  3. SlateBlue

    Macintosh II Restoration

    I have not. Truthfully, I don’t know what you mean by jump starting the PSU. Why wouldn’t there be voltage present when plugged into an outlet? I would think there would be 12v or 5v standing. And, last question, do the PRAM batteries have anything to do with this? I know without them, the Mac won’t power on. I installed two fresh 3.6 batteries into the newly installed holders and it wouldn’t attempt to start up. Thanks for the help.
  4. SlateBlue

    Macintosh II Restoration

    With the board recapped and new PRAM batteries installed, the Mac II will still not attempt to power on. Using a multimeter, I probed all the power supply pins. According to this web article, pin 1 is +12v, 2 through 6 are +5v, 7 through 12 are Ground. All of the positive voltage pins read 0V. It appears the power supply is dead. So.... anyone have a spare Macintosh II power supply?
  5. SlateBlue

    Various SE/30 Problems

    @Sunoo, check your messages.
  6. SlateBlue

    Various SE/30 Problems

    Do you have schematics for the SE/30 logic board? It’s very possible your board has a rotted trace or two. I had to probe mine with a meter to test continuity between a few chips after I discovered my SE/30 wouldn’t boot with more than 16MB of memory.
  7. SlateBlue

    Macintosh II Restoration

    Today I received a Macintosh II in the mail. It was gifted to me, and the previous owner stated that it didn't boot up. Knowing that this is likely attributed to dead PRAM batteries, I thought I might be able to revive it and have another toy to add to the collection. Unfortunately, as I got to inspecting the logic board, I realized I had much more work on my hands. It's a given that these old Macs fall victim to leaky caps. Indeed, every SMD cap on the logic board was leaky. Throwing that aside, I wanted to investigate the battery situation. Both batteries had been removed from the board before I ever took ownership. While this isn't exactly a big deal, what I did find was a damaged via and lifted solder pad. Someone was pretty careless in removing the old batteries. To remedy this, I took some 30 gauge wire, stripped it back, and then inserted it through the damaged via before adding a bit of solder to hold it in place; I ended up doing this for all four connections. I think I can salvage this mess with a couple of SMD battery holders. I'll adhere them to the board with some double-sided tape, and solder the small gauge wire to the respective terminals on each battery holder. I've also removed all the SMD caps in prep for replacement. The axials are still in place currently, but I will be removing and replacing those as well. Compared to the capacitor list contained on the 68kmla site, there is a bit of a deviation with my board. Instead of 12 x 47uF 16v caps, my board has 13. And, I also have a 10uF 16v axial cap next to the fourth NuBus slot. I'll post a couple of pics to show the current rework, and will update this thread as time permits. Hopefully, I'll be able to revive this old Mac II.
  8. SlateBlue


    Sweet find! I got my Quicksilver 2002 (933 MHz) as part of a lot of Power Mac G4's. I think I've had it for 4 or 5 years. I've since added a zip drive and an OWC Mercury CPU (clocked at 1.2 GHz). I can't remember where I picked up my zip bezel from. We Love Macs has the zip bezel (new), but it isn't cheap - CLICK ME! DVwarehouse shows none, nor could I find any on eBay. The design of this Mac is pretty slick, but mine makes a lot of fan noise. It isn't exactly the quietest thing sitting on my desk.
  9. SlateBlue

    G4 Cube turning on and off randomly

    A circle cut from an anti-static bag will work, too.
  10. SlateBlue

    SE fdhd in need of screen adjustment

    That is correct. Make note of it's current position before you make any adjustments.
  11. SlateBlue

    SE fdhd in need of screen adjustment

    I believe the magnets attached around the yoke are used to adjust the corners/edges. If you look at the yoke from the rear of the Mac, you'll probably need to adjust the one at 1 'o clock. All it takes is a gentle twist one way or the other. Look at the screen as you twist to find out which way. Then you can use a dab of paint or hot glue to hold the magnet in place.
  12. SlateBlue

    Macintosh Classic II Questions

    I said this before...
  13. SlateBlue

    G4 Internet Issues

    Ethernet-over-power adapters can be finicky. The best way to begin troubleshooting a network issue is to do a series of ping tests. The command on OS X terminal is 'ping x.x.x.x' where each 'x' is the IP address of the device you're trying to verify connection to. If your default gateway IP (your home router) is, then you would type 'ping'. This will happen continually until you hit CTRL-C. Look to see if there are any dropped packets between your computer and the router. If so, the issue is either a bad ethernet cable, bad NIC (ethernet port on Mac), faulty ethernet-over-power adapter, or the wiring in your home has too much noise for the EOP adapters to work properly. If you cannot successfully ping at all, you may have faulty hardware, or improperly configured addressing. If you're not using DHCP on the Mac, make sure you're using an IP on the same subnet as your router, and that it's not used by any other device.
  14. SlateBlue

    Macintosh Classic II Questions

    No need to apologize. Just wanted to make sure you address one problem before spending time and money fixing other components that may not be broken.