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About Franklinstein

  • Birthday January 20

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    Tokyo, Japan
  • Interests
    Macs, Japanese cars, disco

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    Network infrastructure technician

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  1. Franklinstein

    G3 Chip Compatibility

    Yep. Exactly this. It's unfortunate because, as I had posted in another thread, I had hoped to replace a 60 or 66MHz 601 with a >100MHz 601v or 604 but it's not possible because of the voltage differences to the 601v and the reassigned pins on the 604. A 6100 with a 120MHz 604 would be pretty cool but sadly is impossible.
  2. Franklinstein

    PCI Fast Ethernet Card

    They're good cards. AFAIK they don't work with OS 9 but are good under OS X. If all you need to do is resolder it's worth the 5-10 minutes or so of effort.
  3. Franklinstein

    B&W upgrade 1Ghz G4?

    The PowerPC 7410 can apparently be had in 600-700MHz varieties, and it's these that you'll need to use if you want a B&W G3 or Yikes! G4 on a full 100MHz memory bus. For some reason the later models with PowerPC 745x variants use FPGAs to interface to the memory bus, and these FPGAs can't operate faster than 66MHz, thus the requirement to drop your bus speed. Oddly, the same 800-1000MHz 745x chips don't appear to require FPGAs in the older beige Macs. The difference between the 7410 and the 745x chips is the use of full-speed L2 cache and the inclusion of L3 caches on the 745x where the 7410 has only half-speed (at most) L2 cache. You'll still get a good performance boost out of the 745x-based upgrades even with the memory bus speed drop. The best 100MHz bus-based chips for these are the 750GX, which has 1MB of full-speed L2 cache in addition to core speeds up to 1.2GHz. These are oddly hard to find though, even though they should have been less expensive than equivalent G4 upgrades. Possibly because, without AltiVec, they struggle with some of the pretty stuff under 10.4 Tiger and can't be used at all with 10.5 Leopard.
  4. Franklinstein

    G3 Chip Compatibility

    Yeah it's kind of a tricky subject, at least as far as use in Macs goes: sometimes they may be pin and signal compatible but ROMs don't recognize the new chips so they won't work. Upgrade suppliers such as Sonnet, Newer, and Daystar had custom firmware updates for some models that used new chips, such as the 7448 upgrades for late-model PowerBook G4s and G4 upgrades for B&W G3s (though these models supposedly worked with G4s until Apple blocked them with an "update", thus requiring a 3rd party firmware patch to reenable the use of a G4). Chips that are supposedly pin-compatible: QFP 240: PowerPC 603, 603e CBGA 255: PowerPC 603e(v), 604(e)(v), 740 CBGA 360: PowerPC 750(L), 7400, 7410 CBGA 292: PowerPC 750FX, GX CBGA 483: PowerPC 7450, 7455, 7457 CBGA 360: PowerPC 7440, 7445, 7447(a)(b), 7448 [though it's still a CBGA 360, it's not compatible with the earlier CBGA 360 used by the 750/7400] Maybe one or two of the PowerPC 970 variants are pin-compatible but they're epoxy-sealed to their carrier boards so they're very difficult to rework. Not that there would be much reason to do it anyway. The PowerPC 750CX has a unique BGA. Though they use the same 304-pin QFP package, the PowerPC 601 is not pin-compatible with the 601v, nor with the QFP variant of the PowerPC 604.
  5. Franklinstein

    72-pin SIMM injection for updated SE/30 Schematic?

    Careful not to get too far into feature creep. I think the motivator behind FPGAing some of the logic functions is because the original chips are NLA, which would allow people with battery-damaged boards to return their machine to life even with the loss of those original chips. My current take so far has been assuming original logic placed onto a new board. In this route the only real improvement available would be to add 72-pin SIMMs or possibly EDO SODIMMs (those could be had in 64MB quantities, so you'd only need two slots for 128MB). I don't know enough about the memory subsystem used here to say whether it would support high-density EDO chips or not. Previously these used 8 16-bit banks of basic or possibly FPM DRAM for its maximum of 128MB; I don't think EDO was introduced until the 72-pin SIMMs. Maybe with the higher-density memory it can use more than 128MB? I don't know what the hard limit is here. Not that I'd probably have a use for more than that in an SE/30. That being said it's probably less expensive to fix an SE/30 board by moving its components to a new board with four 32MB 72-pin SIMMs than it would be to get a replacement original board and find 128MB worth of 30-pin SIMMs.
  6. Franklinstein

    SCSI CD-ROM troubleshooting and maintenance

    Some non-Apple drives don't boot from CD very well. Why this is, exactly, I can't say, but it's true. Maybe something to do with how the drive presents itself to the Mac at boot time or how it responds to queries. I dunno. Anyway you'd have better luck using Sony, Matsushita/Panasonic, or Pioneer drives than most others, at least as far as SCSI drives are concerned (ATA drives were newer and thus (the quality ones at least) were usually less fussy). I'd recommend avoiding other makes than these except possibly Toshiba and even then they're not preferred. TEAC, Nakamichi, Plextor, RICOH, and Yamaha drives are good, but they're often not ideal for trying to boot and, unless you're using a Mac clone, they often won't line up with your drive bezel and/or the eject button will be in the wrong spot. That said, I put an awesome Nakamichi compact 5-disc CDROM changer in my PowerCity/Starmax 4000 and an awesome Pioneer slot-loading DVDROM drive in a highly upgraded UMAX S900. I used D2CD to control the Nak and Toast's CD reader extension with the Pioneer. Older drives often dislike CD-Rs, and most absolutely despise -RWs, so don't be surprised if your drive won't properly read these. Because you're using SCSI, check termination. These drives aren't always well-labeled with their proper settings; sometimes the TERMINATOR jumper needs to be ON to enable termination, other times having the jumper ON disables termination, and some others (usually 2x or slower) use internal resistor packs that you have to install/remove manually. You have to check the manual for your specific drive to be sure. Alternatively, if it's the only drive on the bus, you can use a cable terminator if you have doubts (they make internal types too). The point is: termination can cause all kinds of problems, including some you're experiencing, so check this first. Internally, most of these drives' mechanisms are similar: spindle motor and optical block together on an assembly that goes up and down to secure the disc between the spindle and the (usually magnetic) clamp hub thing. Normally the only problems with the spindle/hub are if the clamp hub breaks off or the friction-enhancer stuff starts to break down and become gooey, leaving a ring of gunk on the center hole of your disc. As for the optical block, they're also pretty similar between makes, at least basically: lens, lens suspension, focusing coils, focus adjustment potentiometer, maybe a laser diode output adjustment pot, a prism, a laser diode, a pickup, maybe some small ICs, all on an assembly that slides back and forth via a toothed rail and train of cogs and/or a worm gear. Early drives used glass lenses and metal (usually copper) suspension for the lens, but newer cheaper drives use plastic lenses and occasionally plastic suspension. The plastic lenses cloud eventually, and the plastic suspension can sag, both of which cause problems at first and ultimately render the drive unusable. There's no fix for these problems: you have to replace the optical block assembly. You can try very lightly cleaning the lens with a lint-free swab and 90% iso, with very minimal pressure in a front-to-back manner. Don't swipe more than once or twice without rotating the swab, and don't repeat the cleaning with the same swab or you may scratch the lens with dirt that has adhered to the swab. The front-to-back motion is so that in case you do scratch the lens, it's easier for the pickup to compensate for (side-to-side scratches are more severe because of the rotation of the disc). If you have a drive that refuses to read any disc even after a cleaning, you can try adjusting the focus pot. This is a fiddly procedure that's meant to be done with specialist equipment with the drive in some sort of service mode, or even at the factory with the optical block removed from the drive entirely, but it can be done just by tweaking the pot one way or the other until the drive tries to read a disc, and then fine-tuning it to where it works reliably. You'll often have to partially disassemble the drive for each adjustment, which adds to the pain, but it can be done with just a power plug; the drive will try to read a disc without being attached to a computer. I've resurrected several Matsushita 4/8x drives doing this, even getting them to reliably read CD-Rs where they wouldn't even attempt to read any disc at all beforehand. If the drive was used in an extremely dusty environment, some fine dust may have entered the depths of the optical block under the lens, which will cause problems. It's not recommended to use HFC-based duster to clean this out because that stuff can fog the optical components (same reason it's not recommended for use with cameras). Using very low pressure compressed (and filtered) air may help but sometimes, especially if a smoker was involved, it won't come clean with air pressure alone. You can try to disassemble the optical block and clean everything by hand, but you're on your own for figuring out how to do so; I don't have any suggestions and many of them were glued together.
  7. Franklinstein

    72-pin SIMM injection for updated SE/30 Schematic?

    SIMMs 4-6 can probably be replaced on the SE/30's logic board with 72-pin sockets with minimal effort: delete SIMMs 1, 2, 7, and 8, then scooch some of the discrete chips between the RAM and the PDS around a little, either closer together or reposition in the empty space above/below the new RAM sockets. Alternatively, perhaps rotate the new 72-pin sockets 90 degrees instead? I don't have measurements handy but that may work without reorganizing any of the other board components. It appears the slanted sockets need about 50% more board space than the vertical type sockets though. If you're going to be spending a bunch of money printing a custom circuit board, you may as well buy newer low chip count/shorter SIMMs rather than try to squeeze in big old SIMMs. I know there were some 4-chip (TSOP style I think) 32MB 72-pin SIMMs but I think they were EDO, so as long as the SE/30's memory subsystem can use them (I know FPM and EDO features are harmlessly ignored on most Macs) they would be a good choice.
  8. I was told that SCSI stood for Small Computer Serial Interface at one point (its actually System, not Serial, not the least because it is an 8- or 16-bit parallel interface) so it wouldn't be the first time there was some confusion with an acronym. I did read the 'Super' part in a book somewhere though, and it was also specifically the 'Woz' abbreviation, not Wozniak, so maybe the author was just making up something that sounded good. But then that Wiki page also says that Sander built the original single-chip IWM so I don't know why it wasn't always a SWIM in that case. Anyway, if your pressure pads are missing, they're probably stuck in the drive mechanism somewhere and can likely be glued back in place (though I think they're mounted on a removable peg for easy replacement but I don't have one on hand to be sure). Failing that, a paper punch and a sheet of felt from your local crafts store will make a replacement in a pinch.
  9. Franklinstein

    72-pin SIMM injection for updated SE/30 Schematic?

    The problem with the SIMM expanders is that you're increasing the number of power-sucking chips by a quite a bit in addition to increasing electrical loads on the memory circuits. I wouldn't likely use them outside of a PC since they often have more power to spare and are more tolerant of weird memory configurations. Plus they're really tall so wouldn't fit well in a compact Mac or most of the II series or similar machines with limited RAM clearance. That said, I got a set of 72-pin SIMM-to-168-pin DIMM expanders in a box of random stuff once. Never tried to use them but they may work in old PCs that can use unbuffered EDO DRAM DIMMS. Since some people are working on remanufacturing SE/30 boards anyway it shouldn't be too difficult to reshuffle some wires to accommodate 72-pin SIMM sockets in place of the 30s. Maybe flip the ROM SIMM 90 degrees and scooch the FPU over a little? Or maybe just use 4 72-pin sockets instead of 8 to keep things mostly in their original orientations? 4 sockets will still yield 128MB.
  10. As mentioned it was an official upgrade, replacing the ROMs and the IWM for a SWIM, usually replacing one of the floppy drives with an FDHD unit (complete with a sticker to go on the case) and leaving the other as an 800k. They rearranged the acronym with the FDHD system: originally an Integrated Woz Machine, it became the Super Woz Integrated Machine. I guess it flowed better than SIWM would have.
  11. Franklinstein

    This disk is killing my 400k drives!

    Don't use cleaning disks on 400k or other single-sided drives or you'll damage/dislodge the pressure pad and render the drive unusable. The pressure pad is a little felt pad that, on the 400k Sony drives, is on the arm on the top of the drive directly above the head. This pad presses down on the disk surface to ensure full contact with the head. If this pad is missing, it will not generate enough pressure to properly read the disk and may scrape up the top of the disk causing a lot of debris to be generated. Cleaning these drives requires disassembly and manual cleaning of the head with a lint-free swab and special cleaning fluid, but you can get away with carefully using a cotton swab and 90% iso alcohol. 70% iso also works in a pinch. You'll also want to check that the pressure pad is still properly attached. If it isn't it may be in the drive somewhere. Even though your disk media may not look bad, it may be heavily shedding particles and/or binder material all over the heads of your drives. I probably wouldn't try using it again.
  12. Franklinstein

    SCSI2SD PB Edition and PB 5xx - dumb question

    On cables without a visible filler pin, I've been able to just push the pin through it since the plastic is pretty thin. You have to be sure you're pressing straight on though or you may bend something.
  13. Franklinstein

    Macintosh 512K revival

    Nice. I got a boxed 128k once but it wouldn't boot. According to the error on the screen, some of the RAM chips were bad. Luckily I found some NOS chips on eBay (though not the same make, sadly) and swapped them in and it worked. I left it stock because I have a 512k to accompany it. I also found an external floppy drive for it. Those drives are way expensive in working condition but those that need maintenance can be had cheaply, so that's what I did. It's funny how those old 400k drives have everything roughly double the size of the components in the later 800k drives, which themselves didn't change much when they went to 1.44MB. They sound as different to the later mechanisms as the 800/1.44 auto inject models did to the manual types, kinda like an egg beater.
  14. Franklinstein

    Sony MP F75W 11G superdrive with faulty zero track sensor

    The T0 sensor may be out of alignment if the head interrupter isn't triggering it, usually as a result of an improper reassembly following cleaning. This is a fiddly job that basically involves trial-and-error adjustments in moving the T0 sensor assembly around to the point that the head assembly stops and that disks are properly recognized. You'll essentially have to move the sensor forward until the head interrupter triggers it, and then insert a known-good formatted disk to see if it can be mounted. If the disk won't mount, DO NOT format it; just eject the disk and then move the sensor slightly forward or back, then reinsert the disk. Repeat until the disk mounts. You may have to manually move the head assembly slightly forward between disk mount attempts so that it re-homes properly to the new position. If the disk won't mount at all, the head stepper is probably out of alignment, again because it wasn't reassembled correctly following a cleaning. This is a separate but similar process involving rotating the head stepper motor body slightly. Not something to be attempted until it at least tries to mount a disk though
  15. Franklinstein

    New SE and Miniscribe deep-dive

    I haven't been able to test my HD20 resurrection scheme just yet since I don't have access to any of it currently. It's not going anywhere though so it'll be available when I get the time. The Rodime drives were not exactly renowned for their reliability, which is part of the reason Rodime didn't end up with a huge share of the market. I only liked them because they're Scottish. Anyway they rebranded or sold out and became Calluna or something and made type III PC Card hard drives for a while before leaving the disk drive market entirely. I don't know if those old drives have any sectors to spare anymore or if they're just having to mark bad blocks in the file table. Is there a good utility that does that? I have a couple drives with persistent bad sectors that everything (including NDD) keeps attempting to spare out but they always end up causing problems in the same sectors again. I just want to tell HFS or HFS+ to NOT USE THOSE SECTORS! AVOID! NOT GOOD AREA! HERE BE DRAGONS! Floppy disks do that during format. Why won't a hard drive? Instead they just keep clicking and clicking over and over until eventually something gets tired and throws an error. There are a couple drives with bad sectors concentrated at one end of the drive or the other so those are easy to partition around but otherwise good 1GB drives or so are unusable because there's about 1MB worth of bad sectors in the middle of the drive.