Jump to content

Alex

6502
  • Content Count

    634
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1320 profile views
  1. Alex

    Well Crap (SE/30)

    Information offered by @trag, @ScutBoy and @JustG should be on a wiki. Not to derail the topic but is the wiki still live and updated?
  2. Alex

    Well Crap (SE/30)

    Short comment, as per this shot. I have an iMac G3 and the metal chassis suffered a similar fate. I would clean it with some vinegar and with extremely fine sand paper (the kind that you can work with when wet) — sand and sand until all that rust is gone and then you can spray paint that part. I did this and it turned out really well. Considering how it looks, I doubt there is anything to lose. Cheers! —Alex
  3. Alex

    Well Crap (SE/30)

    A really unusual logic board cleaning process. WD40? Please consider viewing to evaluate if this process helps in your situation. I wanted to introduce you to a really unusual process of cleaning a board, I have never tried it but it's presented here in this video. It involves using WD40 (I told you it was unusual) on the board to clean it. Of course if you do this you will have to really do some serious post clean up. It was a while since I watch this video but when I saw your post I immediately remembered this video.
  4. Here is what you can expect, Video Chapters 0:00 — Intro 2:19 — Capacitor Locations 4:41 — Capacitor Replacement 14:18 — Microscope view 18:55 — Lifting head for cleaning 21:13 — Protective yellow plastic disk 22:37 — Metal Mounting Bracket 24:31 — Ribbon Cable Types (stripe color) 26:20 — Disk Ejection Woe 26:57 — Cleaning & Lube 30:11 — Sliding smooth with KURE 5-56 (WD-40) 34:22 — Plastic Gearbox Disassembly 37:43 — Gear that usually breaks 40:31 — Microscope view of Gears 47:06 — Head Assembly Removal for lubrication 52:02 — SuperLube Grease & Oil 1:00:51 — Gearbox Lube 1:01:16 — Mixing Grease & Oil 1:11:27 — Hot Glue on Bottom Plate of Gearbox 1:25:51 — Springs 1:26:23 — Final Testing 1:28:34 — Closing Words Don't forget to check the show notes as well. Cheers!
  5. Alex

    Help with my Macintosh Classic

    It would appear that you isolated far enough to see a question mark so it is promising but testing might prove more difficult without diskettes. I am no expert re the Classic but I have some questions about the hard disk. Does it sound normal to you? Does it appear to make attempts to start up from the HD? The solid grey screen would tell me (no expert remember) that it might be trying to boot from the HD but gets stuck somewhere and as far as it gets, the flashing disk icon would not apply. Try any diskette, even if there is no OS on it. It would tell you something about the general health of the machine and whether it is following some logic. For example no OS so eject the floppy.
  6. Alex

    Can't set year 2020

    Read all about it. It's a bug and there is a fix. https://archive.org/details/macos_8_2020_bug
  7. Disconnect as many internal devices as you can. Power up with a minimal hardware configuration. So remove HD, remove CD/DVD, airport, RAM (unless you need one stick to detect the chime), remove the graphics card. So the idea is to minimize the config to isolate to a particular internal device. If power remains on with these devices disconnected look for any debris in the connection points, RAM slots, PCI slots, anything and clean them up. Clean anything that looks dirty or corroded. Scan the logic board with your eyes, looking for anything corroded or suspicious. So if you suspect power, with few devices attached you might see that it remains on. Add back only one internal device at a time and power up. Any change? Keep adding back parts one by one and observe if the issue is reproducible or not. Be sure to clean up any debris in the machine that might be conductive causing a short as indicated by Demik. Could be the PSU but then again with fewer devices requiring power it might make an already weak PSU (if it is the case) to run perhaps more efficiently getting the system far enough to witness some desired result. Doesn't the quicksilver have a few LEDs on the logic board that can tell you something while the machine has power? Keep us posted.
  8. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    If a board is swapped, the same serial number is burned in by whoever services them (AASP or ARS). My recollection tells me that serial numbers won't change even if a board is replaced as part of a repair or some other repair extension program. I am not so sure though, I tend to believe the same serial would be burned into the new board to keep the serial on the back of the machine or wherever it is to match the About this Mac window. If you contact an AASP they should be able to tell you (they are usually less cranky then Apple about reveal silly little things like that). From a practical perspective it wouldn't matter because iDesk (the AppleCare app advisors use) or GSX (Global Service Exchange primarily for AASP and even ARS and AC Tier 2 Advisors) would still be able correlate any serial number to any associated repair or replacement via those tools. Of course, it's possible the MLB was swapped out unofficially but if that were the case the serial number on the back of the machine wouldn't match the About this Mac info window in which case I would be inclined to think it was an OOW repair done by whoever owned it. None of this answers your original question though, unfortunately I don't actually know what XB stands for but according to those other sites they claim it stands for assembled in the USA but I can't verify their claims, nonetheless it's always edutainment (for lack of a better term) to explore all these nooks and crannies.
  9. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    Also check http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html It claims my iMac was assembled in Cork, Ireland but I can assure that it was not. I worked at Apple Cork at the time and it was not assembled there. It was in another country in the EU. I am almost certain but this was in 2011.
  10. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    XB also claims a USA assembly, see https://igotoffer.com/apple/apple-serial-number-why-is-it-important
  11. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    Not sure if this helps or if it's even accurate: https://www.stijit.com/web-tips/macbook-serial-number-meaning. It's certainly not a PMG4 so it could be a miss. Country of macbook production Starting from 2010 and onwards in later models the first three characters define the factory where the macbook was made: FC – Fountain, Colorado, USA F – Fremont, California, USA XA, XB, QP, G8 – USA
  12. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    See if it's even here: https://checkcoverage.apple.com
  13. Alex

    Mystery Serial Number - G4 PowerMac

    The XB prefix would potentially mean that it was a CTO. As an example my iMac 27 mid 2011 has the DG prefix. It was not assembled in Cork, Ireland. This is a guess but CK usually assembles machines that are not CTO but perhaps they do take care of CTO's as well under some circumstances. The rest of what you are on about in terms of GigE and the XB meaning Exchange Board is unknown to me. What you can do is contact AppleCare over the phone, give them the serial number and just ask where it was manufactured. If I remember correctly SAP (if they still use the from-end) or iDesk (if the I remember the name now) may identify that kind of info. Doesn't hurt to call, they won't charge you unless you agree to a support call agreement. You can enquire and all they can say is "we don't know" and then you can end the call.
  14. From the service manual which only shows steps that you may or may not have done. I would be inclined to suspect the caps, they may not be obviously leaking but they should be replaced in my opinion only because they are old. Measure the battery voltage. I strongly believe it is not required to boot the machine, my other iMacs of this vintage don't require a battery. Chime back if you continue to need help.
  15. from terminal try drutil eject (doubt it will work) Do you here any attempts by the drive to eject at all or is it dead silent, if so check the cabling to ensure everything is connected correctly.
×