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  1. nickpunt


    Love this game, thanks for fixing this issue!
  2. nickpunt

    Transplanting 9-inch CRTs - A Journey

    Looks great! Love the dramatic photos. Seems like the picture is not distorted, guessing you didn't have to mess with the magnets much? I gotta find one of these green CRTs.
  3. nickpunt

    Transplanting 9-inch CRTs - A Journey

    Socket wrench was all I needed, looked more difficult than it was. The yoke was a bit of a pain just because it’s fragile and lots of wires were around limiting movement. There’s goo around the anode so wear gloves!
  4. nickpunt

    MAC SE/30 with orange colored CRT

    I messed with the centering rings and improved the picture, but there's still larger geometric distortion on the top and bottom right. I'm looking at maccaps guide and tried to rotate them a bit with needle nose pliers but they were hard to move and adjusted things in unexpected ways since they didn't rotate cleanly - you let off the pliers and the picture looks different than when rotating. I could only safely access four of them. Would love to learn more about how to do this, what tool to use, and which ones to adjust for what problems. I'll take a look at that service manual. The flying toasters in amber are a pretty fun effect: The flyback has 7 pins, 6 of which are connected to wires. The label itself has 1745 printed on the side, then on the label 95-3574-05 probably as a part number, and below that EIA 343 4 and Made in Taiwan. The cable coming from it is made by Sumitomo, so perhaps that is the manufacturer of the whole thing.
  5. nickpunt

    MAC SE/30 with orange colored CRT

    Also here's better pics of the flyback transformer it came with.
  6. nickpunt

    MAC SE/30 with orange colored CRT

    Got it working @jessenator! Note the anode (red hole coming out of CRT) is on the opposite side relative to Mac CRTs. You can tell because the neckboard connectors on the amber monitor are 180* off - the missing pin should be on the top left if you're looking at it from the back. Other than that its a drop-in replacement and easy to swap the yoke and get it running. Instructions, largely cribbed from techknight's video posted earlier: Remove amber CRT from existing monitor electronics Remove neckboard and yoke from your Mac's CRT (unscrew yoke and wiggle and wait for crack sound) Add amber CRT with missing pin at top left, anode at right (when facing from behind) Add neckboard and yoke, and rotate yoke ever so slightly right (see photo IMG_4340). Screw down partially but enough wiggle room. Set Mac up & turn on Adjust yoke rotation until its straight, be careful Adjust CRT settings on analog board (height, brightness, focus) with plastic CRT tools (if needed) Adjust yoke magnets Another useful resource I found is this video on discharging the CRT, though I haven't done this myself. You can see in my images the picture is warped which means the yoke magnets now need adjusting. I'll do that next, but I think I need to find some video guidance on that and want to be extra careful. When I first added the yoke the picture was rotated clockwise too much. I rotated the yoke clockwise to here, which has the top pink magnet adjustment at about 12 o'clock which straightened the picture. This was how it looked on first plug-in. And after yoke rotation, where you see its rotated correctly but the top center is warped (magnet adjustment too weak there?). The picture is slightly up and to the left of center, I don't know how to solve that yet.
  7. nickpunt

    MAC SE/30 with orange colored CRT

    For anyone curious, I bought one of the ones on ebay that @jessenator mentioned, and it looks like a drop-in replacement without the need for physical adapters. I haven't yet swapped the yoke as I'm a bit short on time these days and cautious around high voltage electronics Ironically my grandfather was an IEEE fellow who specialized in power rectifiers and I am all but ignorant of the field. Since these amber monitors are new-old stock they're also in perfect shape with that new-old electronics smell. I wonder if the flyback transformer from this can be swapped into the Mac analog board, since I know those are a bit expensive and hard to come by these days.
  8. The current steel frame of the SE/30 has a few jobs: Hold the logic board in place above the bottom of the chassis Provide mounting points for the analog board and front case Support a hard drive and a floppy drive Support any PDS cards from moving around Hold the expansion backplate Provide general structural integrity Now that we've got clear SE/30 cases courtesy of @maceffects, this thing gets in the way of seeing parts of the inside, especially the logic board. My thought is: wouldn't it'd be great if the frame were a clear acrylic instead? I think we could relax some of the constraints. Few people are running original hard drives anymore, PDS card support isn't super necessary, and structural integrity isn't quite as important for a hobbyist showpiece vs a mass market machine. I imagine the design could be simplified quite a bit, and with laser cutting perhaps a kit could be made. Starting this thread to see if there's any interest and if someone with relevant skills is looking for a project to take on. Seems like a neat thing to add.
  9. nickpunt

    Nick's finds

    Definitely salvaging what I can from this board! At some point my six half-working SE/30s will become three working ones According to the Xceed Color 30 manual, it outputs 640x480 @ 67Hz, so isn't compatible with my 2001 NEC LCD unfortunately. Wish there was some 67Hz -> 60Hz adapter or reencoder out there but I've never seen one.
  10. nickpunt

    Nick's finds

    After 7 years and dozens of various acquisitions, I've finally got a Micron Xceed! Pretty excited about getting it running. It came from a rusted SE/30 from eBay. I believe this is a Color 30 model. The only damage is some rusting on the PDS connector. After some toothbrush cleaning it looks decent. The card shows up in TattleTech (I think, below is what I see) when running in a good SE/30 and not plugged into a monitor. I've run into some trouble with video out, which may that my external monitor finally gave out, or perhaps it outputs at a resolution my DB15->VGA adapter can't handle. When plugged into video out, the main SE/30 screen shows squared edges, a sign that its moved the primary video to external monitor. Other video cards like the RasterOps Color Board 108+SE/30 I have output at fixed frequencies which this monitor can't handle. Gamba's specs table isn't clear on whether 640x480 is fixed (like at 67hz) or not. Anyone know? Anyway, the SE/30 it came from is definitely toast. Check out this logic board: The Xceed didn't come with the greyscale kit, so I'm now looking for that. Maybe @Bolle has some ideas, given I spotted a beautiful one on a white board he made recently
  11. Slightly esoteric question, but to reduce the swapping of accelerators, is it possible to have BOTH a socketed Daystar Powercache 030 AND a Daystar Turbo 040 in the machine, and simply flip the 040 software switch to pick between them? That way you'd have the fastest 030 and 040 in a single machine without having to swap. This of course assumes you have the power to power these, but that's doable with new power supplies.
  12. nickpunt

    Adding Wi-Fi to my Mac SE/30

    Same sign me up, want to go all-in on a bolle special maccon
  13. nickpunt

    Asanté MacCon SE/30 clone

    Sign me up for one as well if these become available. Love the work you’re doing.
  14. nickpunt

    Adding Wi-Fi to my Mac SE/30

    Fantastic @Bolle! Many/most of us run SCSI2SD, wondering if there's a way to make room for a SD card or USB header so we don't have to open the case to swap data?
  15. nickpunt

    Carrera040 Info / Hacking Thread

    Kudos, you did it!