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sutekh

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About sutekh

  • Birthday March 28

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Utah
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, Airplanes

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    IT Director

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  1. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    I still have it apart pending today's delivery of my Mouser order for a re-cap, so here's a pic of the LCD with cable. Unfortunately I can't really measure the length with any accuracy without pulling it all apart, removing the hinge, and disconnecting the cable--not something I'm super anxious to subject it to, but hopefully this gives anyone attempting to recreate enough to go on. As mentioned above, I spun the cable around the hinge in an attempt at strain / fatigue relief. Also as a means of jogging the cable over since the original has a couple of 90deg bends built into it. Only thing I think I'd do differently is to stagger the contact points up and down a bit so your not trying to solder tiny little wires to tiny little pads right next to one another. Only on the LCD side though. I don't think there's room for that inside the chassis.
  2. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Thanks! I did some testing on a sacrificial section of cable, and as OleLila mentioned, it'll delaminate if too hot for too long. I ran my iron cooler than I usually would for the Sn/Ag solder I was using at 350° C. After scraping off the insulation with a hobby knife, I pre-tinned the stripped conductors before landing them and used flux paste all in an effort to minimize how long the ribbon was hot. Haha! Technology, time, and patience. Thanks for the SCSI cable offer. I'd take you up, but I have a file box literally overflowing with SCSI cables I ended up scrapping the idea of an LVD, as they have twisted pairs, and just used a narrow-pitch 68-pin UW. Most definitely. I'll send you a PM. Thanks! That would definitely work. Had the cable repair not gone well, that was my plan B. Not sure which side of yours is now damaged, but on the PB side the connector is a through-hole part. Soldering to its pins would be much easier than messing around with the cable TBH.
  3. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Boom! Works like a champ. Clear and crisp with all colors reporting for duty. Here's the other half of the splice with a bit of the original end below it. After stripping away the insulation, fluxing, and tinning, I landed the conductors, then covered the solder pads with a thin coat of UV activated resin (if you don't have a Bondic pen, I can't recommend them enough!) And finally, here's the 2nd end of the ribbon installed. I guess now that the real show stopper is corrected, I have to set about sorting the rest of this thing. The installed 160M drive was DOA (clunk of death), so I installed a spare 500M with 7.6 on it. for testing Between that, the LCD cable, fried memory module, leaky battery, and busted hinges, I can't help wondering if I'm resurrecting someone's parts unit Oh, and it's missing the trackball bezel. If someone happens to have a spare they'd part with reasonably, it'd sure beat paying the going rate for the whole assembly on eBay...
  4. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Thanks! Yours is one of the threads I reviewed and alluded to above. Thanks for posting and providing inspiration. It's hard to tell in my first image, but I added additional conductors for the two largest power / gnd traces on the left side. 3 and 2 respectively. I did not, however, double up the 3 wider RGB traces. Doing so, I worried, would have prevented my ribbon from routing behind the hinge or through the ferrite SMI suppression ring. I hope it doesn't matter, as at it's narrowest point, the conductors in the original ribbon are smaller and closer together than anything I'm recreating, but I'll know more after buttoning it up this afternoon and will report back... The chronic crumbling plastic behind the hinge issue creates a perfect storm where an already dubious design is exposed to even more stress. My original ribbon was ripped in almost exactly the same location no doubt for the same reason.
  5. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    This is from a 68-pin UW SCSI cable, but the conductor pitch is the same as those 80-pin U-ATA cables. I used this vs. any of the U-ATAs I had in my box owing to this particular cable's flexibility (very finely stranded 30AWG wire) and because I have dozens of them laying about from my server building days
  6. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Yeah, I had to call it for the night after doing the first half. Gotta space the misery out a bit! While contemplating cable routing, I think I've decided to take a page from Duo's book. No doubt in response to the issues with PB 1xx, Apple routed the Duo's LCD cable around the hinge to create much less overall movement / flex (and therefore fatigue) of the ribbon. I'm a bit worried that where the red conductor rubs against the hinge could ultimately wear / short, but think I can prevent that by routing it carefully or perhaps padding it a bit. Last step is to solder the 2nd side in situ, which I'm not really looking forward to
  7. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Although every bit as tedious as I'd imagined, it's going pretty well thus far Thankfully the copper is plenty thick and the first half is done with each conductor metering clean with low-resistance. I ended up chopping apart two SCSI cables, the first having solid conductors where I'd definitely prefer stranded in this situation, but c'est la vie. I'll put a bit of resin over the junction, tape it up, and finish the other side tomorrow. Hope to have video output to show for it!
  8. sutekh

    Basket Case PowerBook 180c

    Well, I officially need my head examined. I threw a low offer out on an untested "parts" PB 180c, and to my surprise it was accepted and arrived today in one piece. It's a wreck though. Its installed aftermarket NiCad has leaked and was fused in place. Plastic at the hinges is of course broken. It's filthy dirty, missing the ring around the trackball and the port cover, and didn't include a power transformer. I've wanted a 180c for years (had a 170 in college and lusted after them), but planned to hold out for a nice one. What am I doing with this basket case? I was able to delicately pry the rotten battery out and get the case open, and to my relief, nearly all of the battery leakage is isolated the the battery compartment. I pulled every board out and both them and the chassis just to be sure. After a quick cap inspection, I decided to try feeding it 7.5.v from my bench power supply. Chimes of death I had a spare daughter and memory board knocking around, so swapped those in and was this time greeted by the normal startup chime. Great! And a blank screen. Less great. The floppy clicked, the HD started chattering. Something was happening, but LCD remained blank. Having been on the hunt for the right (i.e., not this one) 180c for a while, I'm all too aware that their LCD ribbon cables are a major weakness. Fearing the worst, I opened the screen and, sure enough. Cut completely in half right at the hinge. Damn. Guess I'm going to be splicing together a ribbon cable I've seen a few threads where others have tried this with varying degrees of success. Seems like the problems arise from using individual, unshielded conductors that end up picking up interference. I'm planning to sacrifice an 80-pin LVD SCSI cable owing to it's densely packed conductors. Wish me luck...
  9. While researching battery utilities for my Li-Ion thread, I ran across a very old duo FAQ (from 04/18/94) that referenced a nifty utility called "Power Click". Despite what I've read elsewhere, the Duo's mouse buttons are wired separately! <blockquote> * PowerClick: A neat shareware extension by Daniel Segel (daniels@netcom.com) available by ftp at sumex-aim.stanford.edu as /info-mac/gui/power-click-101.hqx on mac.archive.umich.edu as /mac/system.extensions/cdev/powerclick1.0.1.cpt.hqx. Did you know that the mouse buttons on your Duo are wired separately? Not true for other powerbooks, this feature offers the potential of having the two buttons do different functions. Daniel's code lets you set either button to do a single click, click lock, double click, or nothing. Setting the bottom button to nothing is a very useful option for those of us who use our Duo's in our lap, say lying back in the sofa. I don't know how many times the weight of my Duo has accidentally clicked the lower button. (Note: not to be confused with "Powerclicks 2.0" - with an "s" - which is an entirely different program) </blockquote> Maybe this is common knowledge, but I couldn't find any posts on the subject. I tracked down a copy (link below) and can confirm it works famously! My upper button is now click and hold ftp://ftp.uni-potsdam.de/pub/systems/mac/Configuration/power-click-102.hqx
  10. sutekh

    Duo Li-ion Battery

    Some progress this weekend, if measured. I ordered an external charger off the auction site for bench testing and reverse engineering (I really don't want to wreck my Duo), only to discover when it wouldn't charge that there are apparently two versions of said unit. Come to discover that P/N M7778, which is what I ordered, will only charge Type I batteries M1812 is what you apparently need for Type II & III (mine is type II). All of this is outlined in a service bulletin, which I of course didn't find until after running into this problem, found here: https://www.macrepaircentral.us/powerbook-200-series-duo-210-duo-230-250-270c/battery-recharger.html Thankfully, someone had the updated version listed inexpensively, and so after another untenable delay, my testing will continue. I hate waiting...
  11. sutekh

    PowerBook external SCSI CD not working.

    I'd definitely crack them open to find out. SCSI controllers are not all created equally, and some are much more forgiving in my experience. For instance, I recently opened up an external SCSI CDRom drive that had been working on my XT but was behaving badly only my LCIII, to discover that it had an "enable term" jumper installed thereby negating the active term I'd installed at the end of the bus.
  12. sutekh

    PowerBook external SCSI CD not working.

    Definitely sounds like a termination issue. Several potentially questions: How long is the cable (may need active termination). If using an active term, is anything powering it? Have you verified the jumpers on the CDRom are correct (e.g., parity, unit attention, etc.)?
  13. sutekh

    Duo 230c Heating up - battery short?

    *** BE ADVISED *** I provided some bad info above. Caps measure 6.3mm, 5mm, and 4mm in diameter, not 8mm, 6.3mm, and 4mm as previously stated. Need to read my notes more carefully...
  14. sutekh

    Duo 230c Heating up - battery short?

    They're not too bad really. The display cover comes off with just two screws (above the hinges under the little gray, square stickers) and aside from the fact that you have to peel off a couple pieces of tape to remove the shield around the screen, they're readily accessible. Here's a couple of pics of the caps on the driver board (there are many!) and inverter if you want to order them in advance and reduce your downtime. The caps pictured are 8mm, 6.3mm, and 4mm (only that one little 10uf 16v) in diameter.
  15. sutekh

    Duo Li-ion Battery

    Well, shame on me for making bad assumptions about the sophistication of the charging circuitry in the Duo. It appears to be software controlled and current limited. Unless it detects a valid battery in the voltage range of a depleted NiMH pack, it doesn't engage. Probably also has some other fancy algorithms for bulk / float charging and "learning" pack characteristics. The Duo 280c service manual actually details much of this and provides the function calls to query the charge status had I bothered to look. I'm by no means giving up though! I just have to trick the charger into thinking it's looking at a discharged NiMH...
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