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About Stephen

  • Birthday 04/13/1986

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    3D Design, Electronics, 68k Macintosh

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    Software Engineer

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  1. Stephen

    Color Classic Screws

    I pulled out a case screw from my color classic, they appear to be a pan head T15 M4 x 1.75 x 16: Diameter of the head of the screw is 7.8mm The fastener uses a T15 (Torx) The nominal diameter of the thread is 4.09 mm The thread pitch is 1.75mm The threaded length is 16mm long Hope this helps anyone else who needs replacements. I also found this on Home Depot, it's Philips and the thumbnail doesn't appear entirely accurate but it may help.
  2. I recently released a dimensionally accurate 3D copy of the Apple ADB Mouse G5431 shell; with this mouse being a classic design, my intention is make sure people could print replacement parts or an entire shell. The source files are included so people can also customize the shell (two mouse buttons? custom bluetooth mouse? etc). (could be a nice background) Enjoy! If you appreciate this project please show your support by sharing my work and leaving feedback to further improve the design. I'm on the hunt for new 3D projects to help the community so feel free to reach out or post your ideas.
  3. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    That's a great print — did you use an ultrasonic cleaner? Appreciate you sharing a video for everyone else to see. Do you find the 3D printed gear is louder than the original? A lot of people mention this about the gears available for sale online but I have to admit I didn't pay enough attention to my "before" drives to have a comparison.
  4. Stephen

    Homebrew PRAM Batteries

    Thanks folks! if it works that's all that matters!
  5. Stephen

    Homebrew PRAM Batteries

    Just found this thread and thought you might appreciate my solution (and tutorial). This solution allows you to neatly hook the fake battery to a real battery pack (e.g., 2xAA) and place the battery pack somewhere safer.
  6. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    Thank you for testing this on your FDM! Many people have asked if it's possible in the last few months and you're the first to test it and share results. Also, this is a great comparison. I suspect the teeth on the white gear (Shapeways) are not as deep as the yellow (original) because of printing resolution. For example, if the detail from Shapeways were finer the inner groove of the tooth would be less clumped together, resulting in a deeper tooth "groove" (I'm sure there's a technical name — bear with me). I'm going to update the Thingiverse page to warn against printing on FDM (even at 0.20mm) based on your results.
  7. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    Thanks! That's super generous of you — I've been thinking of getting a SCSI2SD Shapeways provides the datasheet for their "Smooth Fine Detail Plastic" material. According to the datasheet it's a "VisiJet® M3 Advanced Plastics", but that doesn't help narrow it down too much because that material may be compatible with all of these printers. There's also this video from Shapeways about their fine detail plastic, which was sort of fun to watch. I don't think they list the specific resolution on their description page, but they do say the smallest clearance (space between parts) is 0.05 mm. For example, my Anycubic Photon can reliable print 0.10 mm but I anticipate their printer cost significantly more than mine.
  8. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    That’s correct - I get $0.48. It’s possible to make a lot more by setting the price just a little lower than that eBay guy but my goal was to make this as cheap as possible.
  9. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    I was able to make working prototypes at 0.10mm resolution on my Anycubic Photon (LCD / Resin printer) while I was testing early designs. Based on Eric's photos I would say the quality he got from Shapeways is about 2x better than I was able to produce.
  10. Stephen

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    Thanks for sharing, Eric. I recreated the design of the gears and open sourced them because the existing options were priced in a way which felt intentionally opportunistic. Also, we now live in a world where most people either owns a 3D printer, knows someone who owns a 3D printer, or otherwise has access to a 3D printer (e.g., a library). If anyone finds other components which could be fixed or maintained with 3D printing please feel free to reach out and we can explore open source designs.