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  1. petteri

    G3 mix, should I proceed?

    I tried to empty the iMac properly before selling it, but it seems it doesn't want to boot from the USB drive. So I had to buy some CD-Rs and write Mac OS 9.2.2 on such. But my old MacBook Pro didn't manage to burn a disk properly. So, time to try the external burner. I copied the 9.2.2 ISO to the beige G3 and luckily it had Toast already on its HD. Because it didn't have enough HD space I burnt it straight from the USB stick to the CD-R at 4x speed. The burn was successful and it also worked in the internal CD and also the iMac was happy with it. Also the floppy drive works despite the punishment it had received so I am pretty happy with these. And the Riesling wine is also ok
  2. petteri

    G3 mix, should I proceed?

    Alright, today was the delivery day. Pismo - Powerbook 400MHz/1MB Cache/64MB/6GB HD/8MB Video/DVD Bad news first. The Pismo didn't come with a charger and my 12" Powerbook G4 charger doesn't fit there. Also missing the cover for back side connectors. Looks somewhat rough outside but keyboard and screen seem to be fine. iMac - Starts up, has OS X installation and 9.2. Booted to OS X first fine but then booting to 9.2 hangs at the desktop after complaining about bad date. I think I'll try get rid of this asap, takes way too much space Beige - PowerPC G3 300MHz 1MB Cache, CD and ZIP-drive. After vacuuming, removing three coins and a stuck disk from the floppy drive and replacing battery it booted up fine. No leaks from the battery or capacitors. Mac OS 9.2 with bunch of graphic design software. Memory has been upgraded to 320MB and it has USB and FW cards. The original 6GB HD id still inside and working. I think the floppy drive might be broken or at least requires good cleanup. I have to study a bit how to deal with this type of a disk drive.
  3. petteri

    Triple IIci

    Just finished the second one. Despite having that goo all around there wasn't that much corrosion. This IIci starts up fine with chime, internal video is good etc. But when I shut it down it tells me after ejecting the disk that "it is safe to shut it down now" like my SE/30 does. I didn't replace big axial capacitors, maybe that is the reason... Edit: most likely the same issue as here: I also spent over an hour with third one just trying to get pads prepared. This is a bit different PCB as the CPU isn't socketed. And for some reason the IIcx I didn't manage to fix was also with non-socketed CPU... I think this board is the worst one. Here are the photos before and after wash. Even though caps came off clean looking the pads are in a really bad state. I think I wont use any tantalums on this one as the soldering will require some tricks...
  4. petteri

    G3 mix, should I proceed?

    Made a deal, 80e including home delivery with wine but without vodka . I should get them later this week but I need to some major cleanup here before I can add them to my collection.
  5. petteri

    Triple IIci

    The first IIci repaired. Pretty easy case, some leaks but no corrosion really. SIMM sockets are damaged and missing parts of the retainers so I got a sad mac on a first start. Memory massage and then the computer works fine. Two more to go. Next one had much more goo leaking and required some effort at clean up. The photo is before any cleaning.
  6. petteri

    G3 mix, should I proceed?

    Some update of the haggling process. At the moment we have iMac g3, beige g3, Pismo g3, ext scsi cd-r, ext FW hard drive, one bottle of German white wine and a small bottle of high quality moonshine. All for 90 euros... This is the best part of the hobby
  7. petteri

    G3 mix, should I proceed?

    I once posted "WTB: old macs" and forgot the whole thing. Now a gentleman contacted me and said he had some old macs nearby. Based on the photos there are three units: - Beige G3 desktop model with ZIP drive - Green G3 iMac, looks like a tray loading model - Pismo G3 Powerbook - Plexwriter external SCSI CD-R No keyboards or mouse but that is not an issue. iMac was used couple years ago but everything was stored in 2010 in working condition, no clue what is the current situation. Questions: Do these suffer from leaking caps like earlier SE/30, IIcx etc? Obviously PRAM battery might have leaked and ruined them. Any guesses whether these have any value in working condition? I think iMac is pretty worthless, Beige G3 has some value due to its multiple interfaces and Pismo might be most valuable of all.
  8. I think my original post was a tiny bit misleading. The issue is not really about the zero track alignment. It seems the sensor is not working at all, the arm moves clearly to block the slot on the sensor but it doesn't register it. Instead the stepper keeps rotating, the drive head sledge moves all the way to hard stop and the starts clicking as the hook on the worm drive starts to jump. If I remove the drive head assembly completely then I am able to stop the stepper from rotating by covering the slot on the sensor. But that requires blocking it very carefully, wiggling a piece of paper wont do a thing. So I assume there is some dirt or goo that reflects IR(?) and fools the sensor.
  9. I received a disk drive but it seems its zero track sensor is faulty. Right after startup it moves to the zero track but doesn't stop there. I cleaned the optical sensor with first air and then IPA but no help. If I block the cut on the bottom of the sensor with a piece of a paper it stops the stepper. But for some reason the arm of the head slider doesn't trigger the switch. Is there any way to clean this sensor deeper or fix it without spare part?
  10. petteri

    Triple IIci

    While ago bought three IIcx computers and managed to fix two of them. The third one starts up but no activity after that. Now it was time to level up and do the same with IIci triplets. But instead of buying we made a little deal. I'll get two computers free if I return one recapped. Not sure how good deal that is but all three have some RAM, a working PSU and a floppy drive. All three computers have some leaking caps and do not have any startup sound. All three start up somewhat and two is able to display video. So, the standard procedure applies. - take apart - wash plastics with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD - remove old caps from logic board - wash the logic board - solder new tantalum caps - cleanup and assembly
  11. Running OS X 10.4 fine except it tends to shut itself down when there is CPU intensive tasks. Fans are blowing but I assume the machine is full of dirt as it has never been opened. Should the thermal paste be reapplied on this model? The battery is totally dead. Is it possible to rebuild the battery? Or any ideas where to get a replacement? Would be nice to have some capacity to cover accidental unplugging of the power cord.
  12. Does anyone have idea what the gain and phase potentiometers do on the PCB?
  13. Cleaned up everything really carefully, still not working fine. Speedtest results after pressing recal: Track 0: 393-395 Track 40: 473-476 Track: 79: 595-600 Based on the track tests it looks like it isn't able to write properly on the disk. I assume the first track alignment has nothing to do with that?
  14. petteri

    Cards and drives

    This thread contains a lot info:
  15. Continuing here as this thread seems to be more appropriate. This 400kB drive is driving me crazy... Beginning of the story: The mechanical parts are moving fine, nothing visibly broken or bent and the drive head moves smoothly (guide and worm gear cleaned). There is some play sideways when a diskette is inserted but I think that is normal? The read/write head has been cleaned couple times and looks good, no scratches or dirt visible. I'll try to get a close up photo to see it better. The pressure pad spring is firm and it lands down on the magnetic media when a disk is in the drive. I don't see scratches on the disk after running tests. Speed control is stable and seems to be good. But the read/write operations of the drive is pretty flaky. Sonytest format fails with errors 69-72, I guess those are track numbers? Individual track tests work sometimes, depending of the data written on the disk. When disk is rotating in the drive it seems to wobble visibly. The edge of the magnetic media moves, it almost looks like the magnetic media is not cut to a circle or the rotation axis is not exactly center. Any advices? I wouldn't like to start adjusting every sealed screw randomly.