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Michael_b

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  1. Michael_b

    RaSCSI Development Thread

    Great stuff - very interested in the results of your testing!
  2. Michael_b

    Mac Plus or Mac SE?

    Are the capacitors original?
  3. FWIW my SE board which came with the SE/30-style chassis has no cutout.
  4. Michael_b

    IMG_6705.jpg

  5. Michael_b

    Issues with Mac SE/30 display (and more?)

    I would expect a large red film cap to look like the attached - in fact I grabbed that image from the cap kit you linked. Are you sure you didn't actually install the cap intended for C15 into the C12 spot? The original C12 cap is a film capacitor, so I think it would be an easy mistake to make. Also your C12 looks oversized relative to what I have on my analog boards. There's really not a good reason to replace C12; it's not electrolytic so it's not plagued by leakage as the other caps are. C15 on the other hand is electrolytic on the stock board - however, finding the correct value non-polar electrolytic is difficult/expensive, so the film capacitor is a common swap (though film capacitors aren't exactly cheap). If you have a polar cap in there, it's going to be wrong no matter what direction you've got it, AFAIK. If it is the flyback (don't ask me, I don't know), you might find this to be of interest.
  6. Michael_b

    Issues with Mac SE/30 display (and more?)

    Can’t quite tell from the picture but C15 on the AB looks polar, I believe that should be nonpolar.
  7. Michael_b

    RaSCSI Development Thread

    See here.
  8. Michael_b

    RaSCSI Development Thread

    I have it a go a while back but I accidentally reversed the SCSI connector pinout (went off a diagram for the male rather than female...) and haven’t had the chance to revise it. IIRC the PCB design linked to in this thread is slightly wrong and will require modifications (Cutting traces and patch wires) to work. Good luck with your efforts and please report back - the only other info I have regarding RaSCSI and old Macs is someone who claimed to have it working but only on 68030 Macs - said older Macs didn’t work.
  9. Michael_b

    SE/30 with an expansion card

    I think you might find this thread useful, if you haven’t already seen it. As you speculated, it seems that cutting the CRT is pretty difficult, so forming a mold might be a better route. It also seems that it would be worth trying to connect your SE/30 graphics card to any LCD panel you install in there - you’d have a grayscale SE/30 for a fraction of the cost.
  10. Sad. Guess I'll take it apart, then move on. Need to find out what that buzzing is coming from...
  11. Just got this Power Mac 7200/120 for next to nothing. Only upgrade is a two port USB card. Nothing too exciting. It seems that the SCSI hard drive (Quantum Fireball SE) in this thing is dying. When I turn it on, it starts booting and gets into the Mac OS 8.6 screen very quickly. Unfortunately it hangs there, and the HDD starts making weird noises. Here's a YouTube video with audio - it sounds a bit sketchy at first, then seems like a normal (old) hard drive until about twenty seconds in. After that, it makes a loud buzz - then a tick-tick - then a buzz - then a tick-tick, etc... Is this a common failure mode for these drives, and if so, is it fixable? I'm planning on installing an SIL3112 either way, but I'd love to have the drive for an SE/30.
  12. Michael_b

    Trick to desolder thru holes?

    I have an 858D clone hot air gun that I use in conjunction with the iron when I have to deal with a ground plane soaking heat up. If the iron isn’t enough, usually adding the hot air will provide enough heat to clear things out. In my experience, copper wick will just soak up even more heat, which is a problem if the ground plane is posing an issue on its own.
  13. Michael_b

    CRT portability

    See here. looks like you can borrow from 128/512, Plus, SE, SE/30, and some classics.
  14. I maxed out the vertical width with little effect. If it is the flyback, I likely won’t bother to repair it... though it does seem like the electron gun is shooting just fine, it’s just not being deflected up and down enough to reach the top and bottom of the tube. In that case, would the flyback still be the primary suspect?
  15. Well, I replaced every single electrolytic capacitor in the monitor. Annoyingly, the display is still letterboxed, though now it doesn’t get any better over time. What else could it possibly be? I don’t imagine I’ll put any more time into this monitor, but I’m curious as to what could cause this problem.
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