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DistantStar001

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  1. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap my LC III and may have run into a problem

    I have checked them out, but I've had some trouble identifying the product I need. I think the markings on the 582 indicate a value of 5.8 kΩ, however, the images on their site are unmarked. Also, they didn't seem to have any stock from the results that came up. I also checked out Mouser with no luck. As for seeking a donor board, I'm not sure what other boards might have the necessary.
  2. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap my LC III and may have run into a problem

    Thanks for pointing them out. I actually hadn't before, but from what I could see, they, unfortunately, don't have them.
  3. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap my LC III and may have run into a problem

    So sorry for the lack of update, but I've been looking for the replacement resisters for a while now with no luck. Does anyone know where I can find 582 and 204 surface mount resisters? The former seems to be the hardest to locate. My local electronics store has the 204s, but I'd prefer to get both at the same time if I can.
  4. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap a Macintosh Classic Analog board and lost track

    A sad update First I wanted to say thank you so much to everyone who has tried to help me. However, I must regretfully report that this is not going to be a salvageable Macintosh after all. The corrosion to the analog board was far more severe than I had originally thought. Several components were loose, and many of the traces and pads are falling off the board. But the final nail came when I discovered a bent pin on the back of the CRT. In my clumsy attempt to bend it back into shape the tube cracked and a piece of glass broke off, rendering any potential repairs to the analog board meaningless. Maybe I'll come back to this someday. But for right now, it's a parts-machine. Its case and most of its innards are still in decent shape, so I'll probably salvage them for other computers. I still have an SE with a single failed capacitor on its analog board, along with a bad hard drive. So now that computer will be able to live on instead. I haven't decided what to do with its floppy drive yet. I still have my LC III that I'm repairing (I temporarily gave its drive to an SE for the moment), and the drives on my Mac II are a little mismatched. So either would be a good candidate for a transplant. The motherboard could be perfectly fine for all I know. I did recap and clean it. Unfortunately, however, I have no way to test my work at the moment. As for the case, the upper center crew hole is completely shattered on the front part. It looks to be some sort of corrosive damage that discolored the screw as well. But structurally, and cosmetically, it should still be salvageable. The back is a little yellowed and has a few scuffs, but is otherwise in good shape. Who knows, maybe I'll find another beat-up old classic that could use a facelift. Or I'll just sell the bits I don't use on eBay... All and all, this has been kind of a sad day for me. I was really looking forward to getting this old Classic up and running again.
  5. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap a Macintosh Classic Analog board and lost track

    Thank you both for this. I'm going to go over the entire board now and see if I can't get this thing to finally work!
  6. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap a Macintosh Classic Analog board and lost track

    The part number for the board is 630-0395. I Tried using the 630-0525 (220v international) as a reference since that's the most commonly documented, but it didn't work. This isn't the first time I've run into an issue like this, where all the documentation for an American computer is for the international version of it. Sometimes I'm lucky, and the two are somewhat interchangeable, and other times they're not. PSUs are particularly annoying that way. If possible, and just to check my work (since it's non-functional), is it possible anyone has a list of all the capacitor values with locations for this model? I tried some schematics I found online, but for the life of me I couldn't find CP31, and there appeared to be other missing bits as well. The good news is that I haven't done any damage. It's just as broken as when I got it.
  7. I'm attempting to recap my Mac Classic's analog board and seem to have lost track of what goes where. I'm not recapping the whole board just yet, only the ones that were obviously bulging or leaking for the moment as they're the ones that were the most obvious and problematic. I've managed to get most of them done, replacing one by one, but I got distracted and now I can't find the proper values for CP11 and CP31.
  8. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap my LC III and may have run into a problem

    Thanks. I think I can bridge that between the resisters. If I had to lose a pad, at least it was that one. Yeah, I noticed that too. I've been scrubbing this thing under a magnifying glass with alcohol and q-tips for a while now. It looks a lot better, but it's clear that the caps leaked more than I had originally thought. The damage isn't too bad, but R1 appears to be a casualty (not sure how though).
  9. DistantStar001

    Attempting to recap my LC III and may have run into a problem

    Thanks for this. I've been Googling images and every picture I've found shows those resisters populated, but I was never able to clearly see their markings. Now at least I know what to get. My guess is that they are necessary and may have fallen off from corrosion, or they weren't as secure as they should have been and I inadvertently knocked them off removing the capacitor. In either case, it seems that there is a trace in between connecting them. If you have a multimeter, could you possibly confirm this? Don't be. If it works, that's all that matters. You're already way ahead of me!
  10. So I'm trying to recap my LCIII motherboard. I managed to remove all of the old capacitors, clean all the pads (all of which survived) but I just noticed that the resisters at R1 and R2 are missing, and one of the pads at R1 seems to have fallen off. The pads on R2 are still there and I cleaned them as well as the remaining pad at R1. The board did work before all of this but would take forever to boot. I don't know how long R1 and R2 have been missing, but I can't imagine that it's a good thing that they are. The old capacitors clearly leaked but thankfully didn't corrode any of the legs on the ICs. So do I have a problem? Can R1 and R2 be repaired? Do I even need to? Below are pictures of the board and a closeup of R1 and R2 Edit: I was just looking at the closeup and now realize there appears to be some corrosion that I didn't see before. Guess I'm going to have to go over this thing with a magnifying glass.
  11. I've been working on an Apple //e mother board for a while with no luck. It worked when I got it, and all the ICs are socketed. So I tried to use it to diagnose another malfunctioning board. Unfortunately it didn't work, and when I reseated all the original ICs it stopped working all together (no video, no beep). Finally I decided to give it a run through the dishwasher (figured that I couldn't kill a dead board) and now I get 12 horizontal bars across my screen, each 8 pixels tall. This is the most life I've gotten out of this thing in months! So far I've replaced all the RAM on the machine, the MMU, all the ROMs (Video, EF, CD, and Keyboard), as well as the CPU. It's made no difference if the keyboard is plugged in or not, and I haven't been able to trip it into a diagnostic mode. On a lark I popped in a known bad RAM chip and got a series of As and block on the screen. I swopped out another good chip for bad and got Cs instead of As. Then I hit Control-Open Apple-Reset, and that put the Cs back to As. So I know that the computer can react to the keyboard, just not with known good RAM? Any ideas or suggestions?
  12. DistantStar001

    IIc and IIGS Key Caps - Interchangeable?

    Short answer, No. I tried this with an ESC key and found that not only the key itself was too tall for the //c board, but the orientation of the switch was vertical on that particular key as opposed to horizontal on the //c. I'm not sure if that holds true for the option key, but in either case, it will stick out noticeably from the rest of the board.
  13. So I have two Apple 3.5 inch Unidisk drives. One works fine, but the eject motor doesn't push the disc out all the way, but I can live with that. The other won't work at all. When I connect it to my //e and insert a boot disc, the light flashes, then nothing. I've tracked the issue to the analog card in the drive, as when I swapped the drive itself between the two, the failure remained with the defective board. I've been poking at it with multimeters for months now with no idea what I'm looking for or luck in tracing the problem beyond the board. I really don't want to throw this thing out. Aside from the high cost of replacement, this was part of my grandfather's //e, so there's a lot of sentimental value as well. So if anyone has a schematic, or any advice on how to trace the fault, I would be very grateful.
  14. DistantStar001

    Macintosh LC Takes Forever to Boot

    So I take it that my power supply is the current issue, and needs to be recapped ASAP. But I shouldn't wait too long on the motherboard since that's going to be a problem sooner or later, and it would be better to deal with it before it does.
  15. DistantStar001

    Macintosh LC Takes Forever to Boot

    It chimes after 10 to 20 minutes. I figured that I would have to recap something, but my equipment is limited, and I've never dealt with surface mount capacitors before. I haven't seen any sign of damage to the motherboard, but I know that the electrolytics used have a tendency to leak eventually. The Good news is that the board was new-old-stock in the early 2000s and has only been used sparingly since.
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