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max1zzz

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About max1zzz

  • Birthday 01/05/1997

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    Surrey, England

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  1. max1zzz

    SE/30 - CRT Ghosting / bleeding to the right

    Mouser (And digikey too) offer free shipping over a particular amount (£33 for the UK) so I would wait until your next recap job and then order all the parts from there, this is what I did recently when I needed a couple of crystals I could only get from the states that cost about £0.50 each, I added all the caps for the logicboards and PSU's of a couple of LC's to the order, Even though I could get those part's locally it was cheaper to add them all to the digikey order and get the free shipping
  2. A little while ago I brought a ago I brought a Performa 400 on eBay with battery damage, today came the day to try and get it going again First ting was to clean the battery residue off the board, this was done with vinegar and a lot of scraping, then washing in water to remove the vinegar, then washing in IPA to remove to water. I didn't get any pictures of this but after this cleaning the board actually powered up and produced a picture! However all was not good, looking at the bard there was some clear damage to the scsi traces A closer look reveals a almost perfect slice through the traces along the edge of where the battery holder used to be OK, doesn't look too hard to to jump those breaks, First scrape the traces While doing this I found another trace break, No problem, that should be easy to fix, Just have to solder some fine wire across all the damaged traces At this point it got a little more complex than I intended, It turns out the via shown in the last picture was not attached to anything beneath it and it promptly floated off when I tried to solder to it, Time for a nice long bodge wire to the other side of the board! followed by another two when some gentle probing revealed a further two via's nearby also no longer existed The other end of those bodge wires A couple more jumpers At this point I thought I had all the traces fixed, So I plugged it in and fired it up.... To a Floppy disk icon, damn. Looking again I found another damaged trace, this was repaired, but still no luck. At this point I started scraping the tops of any via that looked slightly dodgy and found this: Yep, that'll do it. One more long bodge wire to the other side of the board.... We have SCSI! (Also this 40mb quantum drive I got in another LC II recently also seems to work ) Now just to coat all those connections with solder resist to stop the wires getting ripped off the board And the bottom of the board: Now the board just needs a recap and a full test. Something tells me this board will have audio issues....
  3. max1zzz

    SCSI drive not recognised

    Your correct there, I didn't read that label correctly (it's been a long day....)
  4. max1zzz

    SCSI drive not recognised

    You need to enable termination on the drive which according to that label means a jumper needs to be fitted to the 6th position in from the left of the drive, it likely works fine in the 6400 as that probablly has termination enables on it's cd drive I think you should be able to take the the 10th jumper in and move it to the 6th if you can't find another (they are likely the hard to find 2mm jumpers) as I don't see any reason the SE/30 would need delay start enabled
  5. max1zzz

    Where to start with 3 Mac IIs?

    Couple of notes, You do not need PRAM batteries in most 68K's for them to boot (The only ones I can think of off the top of my head that do are the II/IIx/IIfx and the LC/Performa 475) you defiantly don't need them on the IIci or IIcx so it's best to just leave them out one removed And secondly, do I spy a accelerator card in IIci #1? There is a card in the cache slot that looks to have a heatsink on it and i'm pretty sure the standard cache card wouldn't have that, If so that was a very nice find indeed! Otherwise as others have said you need to clean and reap those boards before you can do any real troubleshooting on them
  6. On the subject of the axial capacitors, Personally I would just leave the board as is, If needed the axials can be substituted for normal radial lead ones without much trouble. This is what I ended up doing on all my Mac II series machines due to the difficulty of getting the axials
  7. Drop me a PM with your address (Or at least a country) and I'll let you know what the cost of shipping is
  8. max1zzz

    LCII Killed FloppyEMU

    https://www.bigmessowires.com/2015/04/19/circuit-protection-economics-and-electronics/ and https://www.bigmessowires.com/2014/03/28/troubleshooting-damaged-chips/ are the blog posts where Steve discusses the issues, but doesn't really come to a conclusion as to the cause of the issue, if you read the comments Steve seems to have had some success in mitigating the issue by placing 1k resistors inline on all the data lines but his testing involved hotplugging which is certainly not what I was doing. I'll probably never figure out exactly what happened, but it's working now and I ordered a spare CPLD chip so if it happens again in the future (Or it turns out the LCII is really a Floppy EMU killer!) I should be ok
  9. max1zzz

    LCII Killed FloppyEMU

    Ahh thanks, managed to miss that somehow
  10. max1zzz

    LCII Killed FloppyEMU

    Well at least the floppy Emu is now OK Replaced the CPLD and it's now works fine. Not sure if I dare plug it back into the LC II though!
  11. max1zzz

    LCII Killed FloppyEMU

    I'm working on a battery damaged LCII (well, actually a Performa 400 but it's the same mac, the logicboard is even marked "LCII" ) As far as getting the board working it is all going well, the board cleaned up really nicely with some white vinegar and I ever managed to save the rom chips that I was sure where gonners, you can hardly even tell they where ever corroded now! So last night I finally washed and tested the board (First with soapy water to get the vinegar and cap goo off, then a 2-3 hour soak in IPA to remove any left over water on the board) and it was looking good, it powered on and initially produced a blank screen I figured this was because of the video adapter I was using (It was one of the ones without dip switches) so I powered down and connected my FloppyEMU, powered back up and the LCII seemed to happily boot the first disk of the 7.1 install set so I powered down again and dug out a adapter with dip switches on, This time when the LCII was powered on I got a good image on the screen however the FloppyEMU was far from happy, it lit up showed the smily face it shows when first powered on and then went blank. Some gentle prodding with my finger showed the CPLD was getting extremely hot and some further probing showed the 3.3v regulator on the board was being pulled down to 1.2v, that's not good! At this point it was gone midnight and I was more than a little annoyed so decided to call it a night. Today I removed the CPLD from the FloppyEMU board and verified it now powers up and complains the CPLD firmware is incorrect so at least it loos like the rest of the FloppyEMU is OK the CPLD chips are £3.05 from Farnell so that isn't too bad either, replacement parts are now on order. What I can't figure out is what happened to kill the FloppyEMU, I have three theory's that make sense but I'm not entirely convinced by any of them (1) The LC II board was not totally dry after having been washed, but if this was the case why did it not kill the FloppyEMU the fist time it was connected or on any of the 3 - 4 times I powered the board off and on while trying to get video form the first adapter? (2) There was something conductive on my desk that shorted the underside of the floppy port on the LCII, I did check the desk before setting the board down but this is always a possibility (3) The CPLD was bad to begin with and just chose that moment to fail, I did have some issues with another mac not being able to read from the FloppyEMU the one other time I used it however reseating the cable seemed to make that issue go away on the other mac so at the time I assumed it was just that My plans or the weekend where to finish off this LCII (It needs some jumper wires ran for damaged SCSI traces) and get it reassembled and reinstalled but I am now very cautious about connecting another drive to the mac, although the damage to the FloppyEMU is annoying it should be a relatively simple repair however damaging a original floppy drive will mean tossing that drive in the parts bin as i suspect the controller IC's on those boards will be totally impossible to get now I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with a mac killing floppy drives (Or FloppyEMUs) and has any idea what I should check?
  12. max1zzz

    Mac II refurbishment..

    If your meter will read really low resistances you can measure the shorted rail in different area's or the board and the reading should get lower the closer to the shorted component you get. I haven't ever done this personally but have seen it done online a few times and it seems to work Other than that what you have described should work in most circumstances (It's what I would usually do on modern boards) however it will not work on really really low resistance shorts (e.g solder bridges)
  13. max1zzz

    Recap gone right?

    Yes they are correct, the stripe on tant's goes to the positive
  14. Very nicely done! I would be interested if only I had a SE to test it in...
  15. max1zzz

    Mac Plus or Mac SE?

    On my plus I had to resolder the Flyback, Yolk Connector and the analogue -> logicboard connector (J1), I believe the flyback and J1 where the issues but the Yolk connector was visibly cracked too. You also need to make sure you remove as much of the old solder as possible and flow new solder on or you won't get a good connection I'm betting it's the flyback joints on your board, they seems to often get overlooked when people are working on these analogue boards
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