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Daniël Oosterhuis

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Everything posted by Daniël Oosterhuis

  1. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Quadra 700 Astec PSU - Bad caps or something else?

  2. As you might have recently seen, I've acquired a Quadra 700 that seemingly had a dead power supply. I've since done some more testing, and I'd like to know whether I just got a case of bad caps, or something more. In the machine, when powering up, the speaker would make some pops, each spaced out a second or so, with the LED flickering with each one. I later noticed the PSU fan would also twitch during those pops. I've taken out the power supply, and tried running it on its own by shorting pin 9 and 10, which makes this PSU turn on. It will loudly click every few seconds, with the fan trying to spin up inbetween clicks. The voltage rails don't really get to go to full power, they swing around 3V (-3V on the -12V rail) while the PSU is forced on. Reading on 68kMLA, I did see mentions of a diode that could cause the power supply to fail powering on, hence why I'm wondering if it's truly bad caps. The PSU is a Astec AA15831. Has anyone here ever had that PSU with the same or similar behavior, and have you been able to diagnose/fix it? I'd love to get the original PSU going again, but if it's going to get too complex, I might do what others have done and retrofit it with a modern PSU. Thanks in advance for any help, tips and suggestions!
  3. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Mac Plus or Mac SE?

    If you don't want to drop the dough on the peripherals, there are ways around it. This blog post links to a PS/2 keyboard -> Mac 128k/512k/Plus converter, based on an Arduino (of which a clone is $5 or less), as well as a simple adapter for using Atari ST or Amiga mice. That might be a more affordable and sensible option, given how crazy 128k/512k/Plus mice and keyboard have gotten.
  4. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Daniël's Conquests

    Since I've started acquiring more and more 68k and PowerPC Macs, I suppose opening a personal conquests thread is appropriate Now, I've had a lot of good finds in the past, and I might make posts about them here, but I'll denote them as old finds as to not create any confusion Anyways, to kick off this thread, I'll talk about today's find, a Macintosh SE/30. Since it's late and I don't feel like setting the Mac up for a photoshoot, I'll just borrow the seller's photos: There is a catch however, this SE/30 is no longer working, therefore we agreed on the price of €30. The seller had suspected that the analog board had gone bad, as when turning on the Mac, no image would appear on the CRT at all. He also said it didn't chime, but he thought it was due to the speaker cable not being attached to the logic board. It had been a while since he last messed with the SE/30, so he couldn't remember a whole lot about it, he thought it was still running Linux 68k, and that he had replaced the PRAM battery at some point. Once I had picked it up and gotten back at home, I swapped the logic boards between the SE/30 and my SE, which I know is working as it should, and something interesting happened: The SE board booted up fine in the SE/30 chassis, and the CRT worked fine. The exact opposite happened to the SE/30 board in the SE chassis, it was doing exactly the same as it was doing in its own. Also, the chime never played, but this was no surprise as the speaker cable was attached to the SE/30 board when I took it apart. After looking around, I noticed that a trace had been eaten away, with copper sticking up. One end of the trace went to a pad, which in turn had a jumper wire soldered to it, which connected to a pin on the chip marked as UI6 on the board. The other end of the broken trace seemed to go to the Gate Logic Unit chip. After looking up the Apple part number for the UI6 chip, which was 341-0665-A, I found out that this is a PAL HSync chip. The schematics I found, if I'm reading those correctly, seemed to show that the jumper and trace connect pin 8 of said chip, which is for the FC0 line, to pin 29 of the GLU chip. I'm a little tired, so I could be wrong on that, but I am fairly certain this is correct. It would make sense for the SE/30 to fail to display a video signal or even boot if a data line for the HSync of the video signal is missing, and the Mac could potentially also have bad caps, worsening any symptoms this could have already caused. I'm not very good at soldering beyond simple components, but with some patience I should be able to double check my suspicions, and resolder that jumper wire straight to the corresponding pin on the GLU, bypassing the broken trace. That, along with a board cleaning and a recap job, should get this SE/30 back on the road. I also found out that the SE/30 has been fitted with a 100MB IBM SCSI drive, and four 4MB RAM SIMMS, totalling the system RAM to 16MB.
  5. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Daniël's Conquests

    Got this Quadra in a few days ago, as the 68k brother to the 6100. It's a Quadra 610, fitted with 28MB of RAM (4MB onboard, one stick of 16MB and one stick of 8MB), as well as the full 1MB of VRAM (512KB onboard, two sticks of 256KB) and a 1080MB IBM Pegasus SCSI-2 HDD. Now, if you thought the Quadra 700 was inadequately packaged, this one was much, much worse. The seller used a similar box, but practically no packaging worth a damn. He put the Quadra diagonally in the box, as that was the only way it fit. It sat with the back of the computer against one of the bottom sides, and with the front of the computer to one of the top sides. It was wrapped in a bath towel, yes, a bath towel, with some airpacks and cardboard packaging material thrown loosely in the box, practically serving no purpose to protect the Macintosh. Like I mentioned though, PostNL is fairly gentle on packages, and only three small chunks of the deeply yellowed and brittle back panel came off. That plastic is really awful and fragile as it is, just like on the 6100, so with the packing job, I think that's really not that bad. What is annoying is that clearly some bits of plastic were already missing as I didn't find the chunks for those, specifically the clip on one of the sides where the latch clips on. With that gone, that side is just loose. Good thing it's a horizontal pizzabox machine, where gravity (and maybe a monitor, although knowing the brittleness of the plastic, no CRT!) will keep it in place. The good news is that it works, even though the caps have leaked. The leakage seemed fairly fresh, and a small patch that bubbled with the computer turned on came off easily with some alcohol and a good scrub. No damage to the traces, so it should be a relatively easy recap job. With this machine, I now have five machines capable of running A/UX, once I get all of them up and running I really ought to do something with all of them
  6. Daniël Oosterhuis

    "New" 68-pin VRAM modules?

    Just recently there was a thread about recreating the 6100 PDS card riser, to allow an HPV card to be installed. The OP also was interested in recreating the 68-pin VRAM sticks, as those cards use them too. However, I believe the problem was with sourcing the appropriate RAM ICs.
  7. Daniël Oosterhuis

    My new SE/30

    The bodge fix is factory done, I believe. It's far too neat for whoever did that cap job, anyways. As for the trace, yes, scrape the oxidized section clean to copper, tin it, and preferably coat it with UV solder mask or conformal coating for the best protection. A tip for tinning is to use a piece of spent solder braid, and some flux applied to the trace, to apply a nice, even coating of solder. That's a trick I learned from Bruce from the Branchus Creations channel on YouTube.
  8. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Daniël's Conquests

    In hindsight, yeah, I should have had more packing material and a bigger box, but in my defense, this was packed with the Dutch postal service in mind. My track record with them has been nothing short of excellent when it comes to package handling, I've had sellers do truly garbage packing jobs (or lack there of!), which still did not destroy the contents. A free Lian Li PC60 case for example, the seller was willing to ship it if I paid for that, and it was just set in a box and shipped like that. Not a single dent on it. So my aim was to make the Quadra 700 just not shift around in the box, which for PostNL should make it safe enough. Might be a good reason to use it in the Quadra 800, with its higher NuBus slot count. Though, that said, I don't really have any plans to get NuBus cards with current market rates, but who knows what will come my way.
  9. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Daniël's Conquests

    My Quadra 700 arrived today! I got it after offering the seller with the whole boatload of 68k and beige PowerPC Macs on Marktplaats to ship him a box he could ship it to me in. I've wanted to get into YouTubing about my old Macs and other computers, so the unboxing and initial inspection of the Mac is how I'm kicking off the channel!
  10. Daniël Oosterhuis

    3D Printed Floppy Gears from Shapeways

    From what I've seen, Shapeways uses industrial grade, laser-based 3D printers, quite a step up from the average tinkerer's 3D printer. The particular ones I've seen from their videos and photos are EOS Formiga P100 and EOS Eosint P395 machines.
  11. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Macintosh SE/30 Schematics (modernization effort)

    Another thing I'd love to see on a new board, is a separate crystal for the FPU. On the main system, I believe a lot of things are hanging on the same crystal oscillator, thus the FPU can't easily be replaced with a faster one with its own crystal to run asynchronous, which I believe should be possible if it is given its own. Would it add a lot of performance? No, but, it's the benchmark bragging rights you get, and parts and space wise I don't think a crystal, its caps and the traces should take up much space at all.
  12. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Transplanting 9-inch CRTs - A Journey

    If the one you found has no mounting "ears" like the one in the eBay ad, you'll definitely have to manufacture something to hold it in place.
  13. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Duplicated floppy icons.

    You assume right, as the OP mentions he puts the disk back in the floppy drive attached to his Mac Mini, where he deletes the transferred file and puts on another file for transferring. Mac OS X still has the "dragging the disk to the bin ejects it" feature, but in most if not all versions, the bin icon on the dock will turn into an eject icon when you grab the drive's icon.
  14. Daniël Oosterhuis

    SE 30 - Bad Picture - Need advice

    I can always recommend Bruce from Branchus Creations'/Recap-a-Mac's tutorials and recapping videos/livestreams. He uses hot air, but there is the method of using pliers. You take needlenose pliers, grab the capacitor on its sides, twist left or right (do not pull up while doing this!), until the capacitor itself breaks off from its leads. Once it is broken off and loose, you can then remove it, and the leads will be left on the board. You can carefully remove the plastic base that sits under the capacitor (you can carefully break it in half, it's very brittle), then use a soldering iron to remove the leads, and clean the pads with some flux and soldering braid, before applying fresh solder and capacitors. I am personally not a fan of any mechanical removal methods without some form of solder melting, but, I do hear that a lot of people have good luck with it. Do it at your own risk, YMMV, etc. I would recommend finding scrap hardware with SMD capacitors to practice on, before you take on the Mac, regardless of what method you pick.
  15. Probably not, a modern device will only draw as much amperage as it needs. As long as the voltage is 18V, and the amperage is at least 4A, it'll be fine. It just won't draw the full 6A on the 110W adapter.
  16. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Mysterious simasimac after replacing SE/30 PRAM battery

    Yes, inspect the area and traces around the battery socket. I'd also suggest pulling out the video ROM chip, and reseating it after cleaning the socket. I have seen people get that Simasimac with bad RAM, do you happen to have spare compatible 30 pin SIMMs you could test with? I'd suggest doing that too if possible, just to rule out the RAM.
  17. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Project: PowerMac 6100 HPV Riser + HPV VRAM

    I saw that those connectors seem to only be for sale from Mouser, which is a bit pricey to buy from due to the shipping costs and import duties involved in US -> EU shipping, so it'd probably be a bit of an endeavour for me to get myself a whole batch of those and PCBs. Therefore, I'd definitely be interested in a DIY kit once you're ready and got a price to put on it.
  18. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Possibly Awesome Haul Tomorrow

    I already have something lined up for mine, but I figure someone might want the plastic bits (top case, bezel, feet) if they clean up at all. Maybe someone would want the board for the special ASICs, or the slot connector now that someone here has made a KiCad riser card for the 6100-series that uses that slot connector.
  19. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Few Random finds from abandoned building

    Ooh, nice finds! That Classic II looks fantastic. The Coreco Imaging ISA card is likely a frame grabber card, if Google results are anything to go by.
  20. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration

    I'd agree 32MB is probably a good spot to be at. If you're going over that, I would recommend a custom ROM that disables the memory check. You're going to need a clean 32-bit ROM for such high memory capacity anyways, and the reason you'd want the memory check disabled is because SE/30s will take a really long time to do that, making cold power ons excruciatingly slow. Sure, the memory check was important back in the day when doing mission critical work, but I think for most of our 68k kicks, it's not that important
  21. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Color Classic Power Switch

    Just the other day, I bought a Color Classic through a Japanese proxy on Mercari. It wasn't very expensive, and even with proxy fees, shipping and import duties, I'll likely be cheaper off than on eBay. I've always wanted a CC, and in the two years I've had a search alert set up on a Dutch classifieds site, they never popped up. So when I got some extra holiday money, and with vintage Macs on my mind, I decided to just do it. Now, I bought one that was not too discolored, and didn't have a bunch of funk coming out of the I/O ports. However, I have been a bonehead, as when I downloaded the pictures from the ad today for reference (so I can have the photos taken of when it arrives at the warehouse, where I can get a refund if it got smashed), I noticed the power switch is totally gone. The analog board is still in there, as the IEC connector and metal frame around the power switch hole are still there, but man, that's an annoying mistake. Given the Mac was untested, though, I wouldn't be surprised if the seller couldn't get it going due to the lack of that switch, which hopefully is the only thing wrong with it, beyond hopefully not too leaky caps that need replacing. Now, a replacement will probably won't be impossible to find, hopefully in the right color, but I'll need to know the dimensions of the switch. Could anyone here with a CC take some measurements? Then I can go and order a suitable DPST power switch when the Mac gets shipped from the warehouse to me. I figure these power switches are probably fairly standardized in sizes and such, but I just want to make sure. I'll have to recap the analog board and do a 640x480 mod anyways, so it won't be too much of an added hassle. Kind regards and thanks in advance!
  22. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Color Classic Power Switch

    Great, it seems like most if not all 15x20mm/15x21mm DPST power switches have the same 19.2x12.9 mm cutout size, so as I suspected, they're pretty standardized. Thanks, I now know what to get!
  23. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Color Classic Power Switch

    External ones would be fine, I figure the thickness of the back of the switch won't be too dramatically different if the switch and the frame itself are a certain size. I already saw one model of power switch that looked about right, but if I can reference the external measurements, I can confirm it. Thanks!
  24. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Daniël's Conquests

    I've mentioned this one a few times, figure it was time to snap a few pics and post it here. I picked up this 6100 locally for €20. It's not in the greatest shape, and initially I wanted to just go as cheapo as possible fixing it up. However, I get sucked into wanting to kit out my Macs and other computers pretty damn quick, and with the AV and HPV cards not being that pricey, I might grab that if I can get a riser. Not gonna get a Crescendo for it, as I want this to be my post-040, pre-G3 machine. Because it's not in the greatest shape (back I/O plastic is fragile as hell, one chunk is gone, another part snapped off, one of the reset/interrupt button plastic bits was already gone, the other snapped off, etc.), I do feel like doing a few mods on it. I want to desolder the AAUI connector, and wire up a regular AUI to RJ45 transceiver internally to the pads of the AAUI connector, so I'll just be able to mount the RJ45 connector where the AAUI originally went. I'll make a custom bit of shielding with some holes for activity LEDs. I'm also thinking about getting rid of the HDI-45 connector, as I don't plan on getting an HDI-45 monitor, and adding in the DB-15 and ADB connectors in its place, so I can attach an extra ADB device and do easy dual monitors on this Mac if I get an HPV card, and otherwise just to have video out at all. If I don't get an HPV card, I might keep the HDI-45 in place, but make a custom PDS card slot blank with the holes for the connectors, and just run wires from the solder pads of the HDI connector to those connectors (I do have the original plastic blanking plate, just disattached in this pic as I was doing some measuring). It has a few rust spots, which I will have to tackle at some point. Think I'll just sand it, and hit those areas with some automotive primer. Doesn't need to be pretty, just keep the rust away. The SCSI drive is toast, as is the floppy. The machine got fed some soy sauce or pancake syrup (smelt awfully sweet in those areas) in the floppy slot, which caused corrosion there, and someone also stuck in a bunch of toothpicks, probably to try and shove a floppy in as the foreign liquid mixed up with the lubricant which made it rather sluggish. The top head's slightly knocked out of place, probably due to that, as is its ribbon cable, so I've figured it's not worth for anything but spare parts. The PSU fan was shot, but I found another 80mm fan, also by Adda, in a scrap PSU in the garage. It's slightly thicker, so I did have to persuade the PSU to go back together a bit, but it appears not to short out anything or be obstructed, and puts out a nice amount of airflow. I might put a blower fan under the hard drive space, as I've seen in a YouTube video by @IIfx, to aid with airflow. I figure with a card in there, it could use the extra cooling. So yeah, I figure this one is going to become another money vacuum, but hey, I want to have fun with old Macs and I'll sure as hell have it with this one!
  25. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Awful Macintosh SE FDHD Revival

    Nice work! I'm in the same boat as you, floppy drive wise, on my PowerMac 6100. At some point, that 6100 got fed either pancake syrup or soy sauce, specifically in the floppy drive opening. It had a good few rust spots, that I too tried getting off with vinegar, then I noticed the top head had been slightly knocked out of place, definitely not by me. There were toothpicks in it too, so I'm guessing someone tried shoving a floppy into it when the syrup mixed with the lubricant and it no longer moved freely, which probably caused that damage. So now that drive too is total loss, other than for parts.