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    • I know that switch998 has asked for some of the parts to the 6115, but if the CD bezel is not already spoken for, could I get that from you? I have a 6115 that has the blank center and I when I want to use the CD, I have to remove the lid.
    • Just wondering what kind of anticipated cost you'd be placing on 4x16MB modules.  Not going to hold you to it, just an estimate.  I'd very much be interested in 4x16MB for my IIfx pair.  Even if I could just upgrade one for now, that would be great!
    • Bad news--tried the x86-BOOT image, and the floppyemu says its an unsupported image type   edit: looking in the instructions for the emu, it may be because the images are of the DC63 variety. However, I have no way of checking this or converting it using the method in the instructions as I do not own an OSX product.
    • Great news! Despite his screen name, @EvilCapitalist has sent me a parts SE/30 board to scavenge an ASC from. Thank you very much, @EvilCapitalist!   Let's have a look at the damage.     Yep, Maxell bomb. How about the ASC? That's what we're after here. A bit of corrosion was present, but it looked salvageable to me.     I decided to scrub down the whole board with some vinegar to try to stabilize things a bit. I was a bit too vigorous with the toothbrush though, and knocked an IC right off the board. I think this is a RAM muxer?       After a rinse under tap water, and hitting it with the air compressor, it was time to desolder the ASC. I don't have a hot air station, so we'll have to use another method.     First, a generous amount of paste flux. There's a lot of corrosion to burn through.     Next, I heated up the pins with the iron, and fed in a generous amount of desoldering alloy. A brand name of this stuff is Chip Quik. It's basically solder, except the melting point is super super low, so it stays molten for a very long time. Here, you  can see it in a molten state, even though I've put down the iron and grabbed my phone to take a photo!     One lesson I did learn with this: you need to get the pins nice and warm before adding the desoldering alloy. If you don't, the alloy will just follow your iron around instead of sticking to the pins.   After coating each side in desoldering alloy, I began raking my iron back and forth across all sides. I kept the iron moving pretty quick, rake-rake switch. Rake-rake switch. Rake-rake switch. After a few passes... pop! Suddenly, the IC moved off of the pads and was free to pick up with some tweezers!     I used the iron to reheat the pins on the chip (super fast and easy) and the solder sucker to remove the excess from the pins. A quick scrub down in some Isopropyl alcohol:     The board looks pretty good too! Here's what it looked like. After this is cleaned things up with some desoldering braid. Not that this board will ever work again... but it's great for practice. You may have noticed that I removed the caps earlier - I will certainly keep it around for parts, or for a reference board, so I wanted it to be stable for storage.     Hopefully tomorrow, I will desolder the ASC from the good board, and solder down this new ASC. I sure hope it works!
    • Congrats on the Color Classic! I think this is a moot point since you have a hot air station... but I now exclusively use the "twist and push" method to remove caps. On the ~6 boards I've done like this, I've only broken one pad off. But like I said, moot point for you...   Looking forward to seeing how this one comes together. Would love to see lots of photos (with surrounding context) as I haven't actually seen a Color Classic in person since I was in kindergarten! I've been watching for one... it's the "unicorn" that I've been trying to track down to finish up my compact Mac collection!