Jump to content
  • Posts

    • I've removed all the caps from over 20 IIcx boards without lifting any pads using the two soldering pencil  method.     I think it has a lot  to do with what one is comfortable with.
    • Nice work with this!    I have a Keyspan serial adapter sitting around...wonder what it would take to get an ImageWriter II going on Catalina? 
    • The battery has now been rebuilt   I ended up using only 4 cells, this was mainly because I wanted plenty of space for wiring (I have found in the past that it can be quite a tight squeeze to get the cells back in the pack when you are just soldering tabbed cells together) but also due to cost, the 8 cells I brought cost over £40 with shipping and I really didn't want to spend that on a iBook I'm only going to be using a few times a year   The first Issue I found was that those nice slot's in the plastic separators in the pack I used to run the wires through turned out to be there for the edge of the top case to clip in to so all my nice neat wiring had to be moved to allow the pack to be reassembled   And with that all taped out the way the pack can now finally be reassembled   The pack is now back in the iBook charge cycling and seems to be working fine One issue with using just 4 cells is that it may shorten the life of the cells, samsung's datasheet says the ideal charge current of the cells I used is around 1350ma with a max charge current of 2600ma, the iBook charges the pack at a maximum of about 2250ma so significantly above the ideal value. I'm not sure how effect this will have in reality though
    • Classic II requires the later one 99% of the time, but I did once see a Classic II with the earlier connector. My guess is that it had been cobbled together out of an older analog board and CRT, probably from a donor Classic I.   Every SE uses the older style CRT, which are super common. They're also one of the most reliable parts in the whole machine unless the neck gets snapped while working on them.
    • @jjclay Thank you for your kind offer!  It is truly unfortunate that EM-30L is not sold here in Japan.  You might want to check with your local post office to see if they will even allow you to ship it.  Post offices around the globe have gone made in restricting things they deem "dangerous."  Here in Japan perfume is classified as a "dangerous good."  Check this out:   https://www.post.japanpost.jp/int/use/restriction/airmail/index_en.html   If your post office won't let you ship it, I might bite the bullet and buy some rather expensive (here in Japan) Super Lube 21030 grease which has PTFE (Teflon).  It seems to be silicone based which means safe for plastics.  Until now, I've been using normal silicone grease and silicone oil without any PTFE in it.  Maybe the PTFE makes a difference?  Even so, the EM-30L doesn't have PTFE in it.  Hmmm...   I did not put any grease in the gearbox mainly because I can only figure out how to remove the yellowed gear and the white gear that sits atop it.  But there are two more gears that need to be removed.  How do we safely remove the biggest white gear with the little metal piece attached to it (the gear that actually hits the sliding tray and ejects the disks)?  All gears would need to be removed, cleaned and re-lubed, not just one or two.    
×