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    • That sounds like the silver bullet for putting onboard video down hard. @techknight whatcha think about this in terms of the register loading issue that merely pulling the Video ROM might not accomplish?   This is a very specific necro post (I have zero problems with pulling old threads back to the surface, but some seem to?) best made in this context.   If it's better to clean this info up this scattershot research in a new thread:  
    • Thank you so much for digging out that old thread! Will browse/read through it more thoroughly in the next couple of days. From what I have read so far I understand that ar least some radius software is needed in order to leave the 1152x640 resolution and get 640x864 or 864x640. Do you have an idea, where I can get that software and which version I would need for my grayscale radius pivot SE 30?
    • Ok, now that I can see the board with the chip removed, I am spotting a few potential trouble spots for breaks. Where the outer pad is no longer connected to the inner pad and could have been the source of your problems. When soldering in the new chip, you added fresh solder from the tip of the pad and it flowed inward, bridging the breaks. (potentially).    Here is a diagram explaining what I mean: I marked in read the trouble areas, and marked in green the breaks  
    • YAY, serendipity rocks!  Found info on this during a ridiculous 24 page sifting expedition in Hacks & Development. Sounds like mouse function would be the impediment:     I'm wondering if the USB Wombat from @bigmessowires can bring mouse function back up to snuff at 20MHz? That's the target clock for my KLUGE (insane functional equivalent) I'd almost, but not quite wager its ADB input is a far cleaner signal than a 30 year old mouse can achieve? Thinking clock synchronization/bus speed borkness?
    • Hey All:   Is this worth fixing?  The socket has broken loose from its solder.  It did work until that happened.