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Found 28 results

  1. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follow along to do the ATX if it is just soldering some wires. TIA for the input! ~Von
  2. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can safely be used in this keyboard, then more replacement options present themselves that are better and cheaper too. I look forward to your insightful replies!
  3. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  4. So I'm starting a new topic to update my old one. Check out the whole story on my original issue. After finally getting a new fly back for my mac plus the fast ticking never changed. I checked the voltages on the caps and sure enough the flyback still is not getting enough power. So what I did was first heat up the caps to see if any of the 33 and 22uf caps are bad. They didn't change any thing other than speed up the ticking a little. I have never got it to stop ticking while using the heatgun. Then I thought it was my motherboard so I drowned it in vinegar carefully using an exact-o knife on corrosion and blew under neath every chip on the board to get crud out. This obviously it didn't do anything. Also during all that I cleaned the cable and tried the voltage pot, to see if the voltage was too much or too little. Nothing changed can someone point me in the right direction I'm still at a dead end.
  5. Hi, got a Mac Plus for a great deal but all it does is make a pop kind of noise, sort of like my Mac SE did when it was working well, I believe this is the CRT turning on, it also makes a tiny little whine, some of the large caps on the left look like their heat shrink has been pulled downwards. No picture, no chime, logic board looks great though. Can someone point me to a 220-240V Macintosh Plus analog board recap list? Could the PSU and flyback transformer be an issue too?
  6. ortencia

    SE/30 recap and blown SCSI

    Can someone recommend a source for recap service? I have used AllCaps and it was returned non-functional. Then sent three of them off to Charles Phililps in May 2018 and they still haven't been returned. Also, I believe I have a blown SCSI or blown fuse after connecting an external CD with a bad SCSI terminator. I'd appreciate any help on these items. Thanks.
  7. My Mac Plus powered up on brightest settings and when I dimmed using the toggle it doesn't dim and it flickers. I think it needs a recap and I don't wish to recap the whole board. Anyone knows which caps do I change for the brightness control on the analog board?
  8. I have a functional Xceed grayscale adapter that looks exactly like joethezombie's photo. There are 4 electrolytic radial capacitors that are old enough to warrant replacing, especially so since they are only temperature rated up to 85°C: C4: 10uF, 16V C5: 47uF, 10V C8: 100uF, 16V C9: 100uF, 63V There are numerous 10,000-hour 105°C rated replacements available on Mouser. Have any of you grayscale adapter owners performed a recap on your adapter? And more specifically, do any of you understand the function of the adapter well enough to know if replacement caps with significantly lower ESR (than the stock caps) would actually create problems? Thanks.
  9. Hi All, I had Ebay seller AllMacs recap both my IIsi board and one of my SE/30 boards. I have bee using the board in the WtM configuration for a few days without issue. Prior to the recap I got this scary image on screen and decided it was time to get on with the recap... Here is a shot of the board before the work: And here is after: And some shots of this work, "As you can see the trace on this pad was making no connection, due to corrosion . I fixed the damage with a new pad and reconnected it" I'll report in on the SE/30 after I get a chance to use it this weekend.
  10. Hi All, Over the holiday weekend I was able to pull out my IIsi motherboard and of my SE/30s to be recapped. Both need their power supplies addressed. The IIsi is pretty maxed out in terms of what I run it it so I am interested to see if an ATX has been hacked into the IIsi. I have seen ATX going in SE/30 PSUs however they are slightly larger. Anyone done ATX with a IIsi? THx!! ~Von
  11. jefframsey

    Laserwriter Pro 630

    I finished recapping the comms board in my LW Pro 630 and now it is working once again! I still need to replace the caps on the DC controller board but at least it is working now that the communication board is resurrected. As soon as my next shipment from DigiKey comes in, I'll get the two caps on DC controller swapped out and she should be like a new printer. I have connected the MiniDin-8 to my Apple IIgs, and the ethertalk to the network. I configured ethertalk to my Raspberry Pi running A2SERVER and then shared it via CUPS to all of the modern computers in the house. The computers that I have in this house that can all print to this printer without changing wires are as follows: Apple IIgs (GS/OS 6.0.4) Mac SE (7.0.1) Mac Color Classic (7.0.1) iMac 5,1 (10.7.5) Macbook Pro (2011) Macbook Pro (2008) Macbook (2017) As soon as I can get the Laserwriter drivers installed, I'll be adding my Powerbook 540c to the list.
  12. AlexTheCat123

    Macintosh Color Classic Sound Issue

    Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was producing sound, but it was so quiet that even the case fan in the computer overpowered it. Trying to narrow down the cause of the problem, I plugged headphones into the machine and powered it up, hoping for the best. I got a perfect boot chime at normal volume! This leads me to believe that the logic board is not the culprit, although I still plan to recap it since the capacitors were leaky. I have a suspicion that the analog board is causing the problem and that it needs a recap. Can someone confirm this before I order a bunch of capacitors and start the painstaking process of replacing all of the caps on the analog board? It would be great if someone could point out the capacitors on the analog board that deal with the audio so that I would only have to replace those. Also, if I am on the wrong track and the problem is something totally different, please let me know! Thanks! Alex
  13. Hi all, I have three SE/30s, one works flawlessly (Mac A), one boots into the OS but has sound has issues (Mac B, I have another topic about this one), but my issue is with the latest one (Mac C): When I got it, I did a superficial check and turned it on and it booted (without chime) into the screen. It looked pretty corroded (and no sound) so I decided on a cleaning and recap. After the recap was done, I got a nice clean chime, but now it no longer booted to the screen (see video.) During the recap I noticed the corrosion had eaten away the trace next to the negative lead of C2 which I patched by running a wire from pin 5 on UB10 to pin 50 on UI8. The other thing I did to it was remove, clean and re-solder UC8. I mentioned the other SE/30s because I thought I'd try to debug this issue by measuring (in diode mode) IC values against the other Macs. The weird thing is that both machines that boot into the OS have different values on the IC I re-soldered (UC8), pin 11 has OL on Mac B, but 1.100 V on Mac A, so I don't really know where to go from here. Has anyone got any idea what a gray screen is about? Or any other hints? I've included a couple pics of the board. Thanks!
  14. Hi Everyone in 68k World, I'm new. I'm an amateur. I've learned a lot about soldering and electronics in the past 2 weeks. Primarily 1) Not all solder wicks are the same. Fine solder wick performs a whole lot better than course solder wick. This would have saved me hours and hours had I known. 2) I will never ever use lead-free solder again. The difference in quality of the weld and ease of use-- my crappy first attempts came out gorgeous once I changed solder. Who knew? Mac SE/30 after recap. Here's my current issue: No bong, and that pattern. I know it's not the analog board or the power supply. I have good readings across the multimeter (12v/5v). After recapping the analog board and power supply I was able to restart the computer and it booted. This pattern is after the logic board recap. I've run as many traces I can find, particularly everything surrounding my work areas. All are making contact across the work area. I've used a magnifying glass to check for solder blobs or anything abnormal, can't see anything obvious. I'm afraid I may have overheated a chip. When I was working on the 470uF axial, I had a huge problem getting the holes unplugged (see solder wick issue and lead-free solder above). I am planning on checking the 8 video out pins once my oscilloscope arrives Tuesday. I know from Tech Knight's awesome video which pins to check, and I'm learning to read the schematics. Any clues on what to check first? Anyone seen this before? I'm learning on the fly and know just how much of an idiot I can be. Enjoying the love/hate and embracing learning a new set of skills. Here's the logic board now. The one trace jump wire on the bottom was on the computer when I purchased it 10 years ago. It tests fine.
  15. It seems that none of my Centris and Quadra era machines are stable anymore unless they've been recapped. In the last few years I've recapped several motherboards, but even they started showing issues, so now I'll be recapping or replacing power supplies, too. After recapping my 1U Amiga 1200 (which is now running 100% perfectly without panics or core dumps for more than a month), I was inspired so I decided to do a Quadra 605. Since I have more motherboards than cases (the plastic is SO brittle!), and since I don't have the capacitors I need for the power supplies, I decided to build the recapped motherboard in to a 1U case and use a standard power supply that fits the case: The Quadra 605 motherboard has had the resistor swap to overclock it to 33 MHz. The CPU is a full m68040 with the heat sink attached using Arctic Silver thermal adhesive epoxy and I added two AAA batteries in place of the 1/2AA. And, of course, it has a 128 meg SIMM and a pair of 512K VRAM SIMMs. For storage I installed an SCM PCD-50B SCSI multi-card reader. It's limited to async negotiation only, but since Mac SCSI isn't all that fast anyway, it still makes for a very snappy system. It presents each card slot as a separate LUN which Mac OS apparently ignores but NetBSD is happy to use. It's pictured with just one 64 gig CompactFlash in the PCMCIA slot with an adapter (which must be in that slot because the PCMCIA slot is LUN 0, and the Mac won't boot off of a LUN other than 0), but I also added another 64 gig MicroSD in an SD adapter in the SD slot for a total of 128 gigs. If I need more later, I may add yet another 64 gig MicroSD in a Memory Stick PRO Duo adapter, which in turn installs in an adapter to make it fit in the standard Memory Stick slot. I've tested it and it works. Plus, the CompactFlash is in the PCMCIA slot, so I can add another CompactFlash, too. The SCM PCD-50B are neat adapters The power is attached through a simple SATA power cable which provides just 12 volts and 5 volts. I can't imagine that much would make use of -5 volts, but the speaker output doesn't work and I'm guessing the serial port may not. I'm waiting for some 7905 regulators to be delivered so I can add -5 volts soon. After running it for several weeks compiling non-stop, I think it's safe to say that it is completely and perfectly happy. Next up is the Quadra 610 with 264 megs of memory and a 50 MHz NewerTech Quadra Overdrive...
  16. Hello everyone! So I'm having some issues with 3 IIVX logic boards. I have re-capped 2 of them and one is still untouched by me. I will try to be methodical with the post... I am doing all my testing with known working PSU, RAM and VRAM! 1. Bought as new and working. Installed and no booting at all. Did a re-cap. Now I get the startup chime, grey screen and then the Chimes of Death. No Sad Mac icon or error code diaplayed 2. Got from a friend unknown condition. Installed without any repair work. It powers on and chimes but then it goes into an endless restarting loop. Grey screen with an intermittent flicker. 3. Removed from the main computer at the studio. We use these IIVX machines to run the Harrison Series 12 NuBus cards so, needless to say, we want working Macs! The board was removed because the computer wouldn't power on. I did the re-cap. The board powers on but no chime, black screen. I'm at a loss. Also, I'm hesitant to do the re-cap work on board #2 (restarting loop) as it does take time and I would hate to spend it on a fruitless effort. Please help!!! Thanks! Dave
  17. I have several working IIci macs and have been trying to get one in nice shape complete with a recap to set up in my working vintage mac office. Power supplies seem quirky and sometimes mysterious, so I thought I might post some of my observations here and see if any collective wisdom or similar experience might help guide my next steps. Back in December I did some testing to sort out which machine to have recapped. In testing, it seemed all 3 machines suffered from a strange symptom where the on-board power button had to be held down in order to sustain power. Strange. Anyone seen this before? The only thing I did after this testing was to use compressed air to clean them out some. I have 3 power supplies: 2 Delta and 1 Astec. Photos with testing notes attached. My newly recapped IIci is completely dead with both Delta power supplies. The other IIci motherboards work fine with these same PSUs, powering up with both the keyboard and the on-board power switch. One board lacks sound, which I'm guessing is a symptom of needing to be recapped. So the Delta PSUs seem fine, suggesting a problem with my newly recapped IIci. The Astec PSU works ok with one of the unmodified IIci boards, but with the other (which lacks sound) powered on once and then off once, never to be powered up again with the Astec PSU. Retesting this board with a Delta PSU and it again powers up fine. Oddly, the Astec PSU DOES power up my recapped IIci intermittently, and only with the keyboard. I have to press hard, sometimes twice but if I play around enough it powers up and then behaves fine. Strange stuff. What I conclude from all this is I have a problem with the newly recapped board, and I probably should recap the IIci which still boots cleanly with sound. Any insights on any of this appreciated. I have another strange PSU issue with a Quadra 950 which I'll post in a separate thread. Thanks all for taking the time to read this! Craig
  18. I just picked up a nice SE/30 and on boot I got this pattern. I swapped the board into my known working SE/30 and got the same pattern, so I know its not AB/power related. I'm assuming this pattern is typical for a board needing a recap, but want to confirm as I didn't see it on the repair SE/30 site. The board itself is clean with no cap leakage and a perfectly intact battery (Tadiran, not Maxell), but of course visual inspection can only say so much. Board image attached (and yes, I know the CPU isn't on it in the photo, it was when tested tho ) Thanks!
  19. This one is interesting as I just ran into a few minutes ago as of this post. Turn on LC III, it "Bongs!", and nothing else. No Video, no nothing. Strangely, though I did not notice it at first, the fan is howling at a high speed. This was an LC III I recapped last year with Tantalum Caps that works. So I flicked the switched a couple more times - the same thing but at times it sounds like a half "Bong" instead of the full "Bong." A couple of times it did not even do that. I thought, "Did my LC III died after a recap like some other Macs did on this forum?" I tried a known bad LC PSU that "Flubs." And it "Flubs" like it always did. But I notice that the fan was slower in speed and not howling. I took it as the PSU being bad and dismissed it. Then I tried a Good PSU from an LC. The LC III "Bongs" normally, video came up and then I got a flashing disk icon (it has no hard drive). So the LC III is fine! BUT the fan was spinning slower and not howling. By the process of elimination, the PSU is bad. It's obvious that it will need a recap. That's a given. But the fan over-revving, is that a sign of over-voltage? Is one of my regulars blown out? What you experts think? EDIT: This is the Astec LC PSU, not the TDK LC PSU.
  20. I would never call another member's work as shoddy or terrible. In fact this LC board's recap was done better than what I could have in comparing it to those I did. And I praised him for it, he does great work. Sorry Uniserver, it's not you. I'm talking about CompuNerd. But this LC board still eludes me. At first I thought it was noise from the PSU. Nope. The PSU works fine and without noise on other LC Boards, including LC II, LC III and LC 475. So I decided to try a known perfectly working LC PSU from another LC III to this LC. IT SQUEALS!!! So it's not the PSU creating noise on the lines. But CompuNerd admitted long ago that he put one of the ROMs backwards on this board and killed the ROM. An honest mistake, we all done that at one time or another. So it took me a while to get a new set of ROMs, having to buy a complete set of 4 ROMs from ebay for $9. I replaced that 1 dead ROM and got the LC working again but it squeals heavily! Today I decided to replace the other three ROMs, and it still squeals but not as badly. Put back in the old ROMS and it squeals loudly. Replace the ROMs, and its quieted down but still squealing. Interesting... So part of the problem is solved but it is still there. Like Schödinger's Cat being there and not there at the same time. So I'm thinking, could a replacement cap have blown at the audio section from the ROM being placed backwards? To me they look fine under a magnifying glass. Voltage is OK. The problem is that it continues to squeal. Furthermore - with the ROMs replaced, it will quiet down after a long while (a 1/2 hour or so) to a white noise static background noise. Audio Amp Chip problem? To make sure that it is not remaining cap goo on the board causing this, I have washed this board again and again. Other than this "little problem" the machine works fine! CompuNerd did an excellent job of recappiing and repairing this board when he had it. Things happen and I'm not blaming him for anything bad with the board. Who knows, it may have had this problem all this time and long before CompuNerd got it! What you guys think - bad cap(s) or bad audio chip? This one really has my head scratching.
  21. Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum. I have a collection of about 35 machines and with my brother we're planning an exibition in my kid's school for the sience week. I've been away from my loved machines for a while, since life with small kids demands a lot of my free time.... Ok. So I went back to the shelves I've started turning on some machines among then my "pet" a IIsi. Din't power on. So. Open the lid and found the battery leaked. I cleaned the acid with alcohol, but don't know what else can be wrong. The oscilator's metal cover have rusted since the last time I recall. Perhaps I can post a picture of the mainboard, so someone can tell me what you think? Excusme for my wrong english. Thanks in advance Seba
  22. It's Alive! Well, not exactly, but it was successful. Washed the board, dried it with my heated air pencil, and did each capacitor one at a time. GOD WHAT A HEADACHE! Took 2 hours! But in checking and rechecking, I found no rotted traces. NONE! What Luck! I did find that several caps were glued to the board, making the cap removal that much more harder. But there was a problem - the black caps I use were slightly larger than the space the old caps allowed! So there was some trouble soldering each cap, so after each cap, I checked each one with a multimeter to make sure it connected to the board, the joints and the traces. This particular IIsi has a dead PSU, this I know and it needs a recap as well (perhaps one day!). But the other IIsi I have has a questionable PSU. In swapping them for a test - the board turned on, audio works, issues with the VGA monitor resolution occurred but that was expected. Also - the original RAM in the machine is dead, giving the Chimes of Death. But swapping out with working RAM I know - the IIsi turns on and boots! Mouse works, keyboard works too! But again, this second PSU is iffy, and after it warmed up, problems came up. Sudden Shut Downs, sudden restarts, boot freezes. etc. Let it cool, and works fine until it gets warm. So congrats to me! Looks like I got the curse broken. The other IIsi will get a recap tomorrow or during the weekend. It depends on how I feel after I get my second radiation treatment early tomorrow. Just got to figure out how to open the PSU. It looks what a tin can of food would look like to a cave man armed with a rock.
  23. Just finished a recap on the other Mac IIsi I have. Almost there but not quite. Power supply turned on and clicked for a while. Eventually the PSU got it little's head straight and finally gave me a "Bong!" Followed by the chimes of death. I'm going to recheck the recapping job and see if anything is shorted out. But at the same time, this is an iffy PSU and the other PSU is dead as a door nail. Mind you, before these two Mac IIsi's did not even turn on before. The PSU would click several times and then become quiet and that's it. Nothing, nada, DOA. I have a lot of questions to get it going but first, I need to recover from a long day and radiation therapy I had this morning. It giving the Death Chimes says it wants to work and that it's almost there... Can the IIsi run without the onboard RAM? Can the IIsi be powered (temporarily) by the IIcx/ci PSU?
  24. This repair was rather simple, but Digikey sent a substituted part. I ordered these clips as they are the same ones used on the LC PSU connector. They sent another type that does fit the pins on the motherboard. But it was a rabid female dog to put it in the plastic Molex connector. This LC-TDK failed because for some reason the connectors corroded and pulling on the wires, they popped off with a broken clip on the end! Trying to shove the wires back in the connector made the LC make a "Flub Flub Flub" noise when it was turned on. The corrosion on the remaining clip was black on the silver part and green on the inner copper core. The PSU also needed a recapping but the connector clips needed to be replaced first. Replacing it fixed the PSU that it can turn on an LC. But it also produced a fish smell indicating that the caps need replacement. Biggest hints as to the clips needing replacement - 1) the space where the clip is in is dark, almost black. 2) When you grab it and pull on it, a wire pops off. You wont be able to get it back in to make a good electrical connection. 3) When you try to fish the remaining connector out to try and solder it, it falls apart. 4) Solder wont hold onto the corroded pieces. To replace the connector, you need to pry open the clip at the wire end and pull the wire out. Cutting the wire and trimming the insulation will make the wire harness too short and you need to pull and stress it to get it on to the board. The wire needs to be as intact as possible from the clip. Since I had to use a replacement clip, I had to fudge with it inside the plastic of the connector until it fit and lined up inside. And like I said, it works without the "Flub Flub Flub" noise, though the fish smell says it needs a recap. That's next on the list.
  25. Damn, I swear. I was hoping to post up the tale of two recaps of two LC IIIs, but success fails me. One LC III (a LC III @ 25MHz) was dead to begin with. The other LC III (a LC III @ 33MHz) was semi OK, it kept producing random sounds which is attributed to leaky caps. It is the second LC III I crippled. During the recapping, three (1 - 47µf and 2 - 10µf ) caps literally came off the board with no force applied to them and the traces ripped off from the board. It was going so well until I hit these three caps. Then I went to get some wire and found nothing useful so I had to go shopping. I so hate Radio Shack, I got spool of wire and the clerk looked at it as if he never seen wire! Then he said, "This for that Raspberry Pie Robot thing? We don't sell much of those." I just handed him $10 and remained silent. Then I continued on buying other things that I needed - dinner being one of them. Got home, tried to solder tiny bits of wire to the caps and soldered them in place. Put the LC III back together and it bonged! It Bonged with no extra sound! Silence! But then, I got the flashing "?" Disk Icon. I checked my connections and nothing. I'm sure its the cap ( C20 ) by the SCSI connector at the bottom of the board, but now I'm too tired and full of remorse - I crippled my LC III. OK Experts, you think I'm right or wrong? The three caps that came off with traces are: C20, C2 and C18. The area was pretty much surface rotted, but I cleaned it up with a heavy Q-tip and a lot of acetone until it was smooth. All the other caps came of cleanly and soldered in with no problems. As for the first LC, I may have to send it out. This machine was dead since I got it in the late 1990s and it's written all over on the case "NG/NW" for No Good, Not Working. Who ever I sent it too, my SE/30 board will go with it. Even with 3 magnifying glasses I can't find the broken/rotten traces/VIAs on it. Maybe all this surgery crap is playing with my mind and I'm screwing up job that I can do?
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