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Found 40 results

  1. Hello from Lisbon Although this is my first post, I’ve been visiting this forum looking for clues on what might be wrong with a 1991 Macintosh Classic. I’ll try to clearly describe what happened so that owners with similar symptoms will be able to repair their Classics. I have no experience in electronics so please be patient and use a descriptive language for troubleshooting. I bought it knowing it didn’t work. The early symptoms were: No screen No disc activity No bong or any noise whatsoever Power cable was working I proceeded to remove the rear cover and noticed that, although it had been repaired in the past – some of the Analog Board capacitors were replaced – it was in general mint condition. The keyboard keys still had the mould texture so I guess it just stood in a corner, not being used. The insulator vinyl was missing as were all four plastic clips. It included the 40MB SCSI HDD (it spins and sounds “normal” when connected to an ATX power source) and a full 3MB memory expansion board. The Logic Board capacitors were still the original ones. I did noticed some mild electrolyte spilling – which I carefully washed away – but decided not to replaced them while I was troubleshooting the booting problem. With the rear cover off, connected to the power outlet and switched on, I could feel some warmth with my hand over some points in the back of the analog board, mainly near the flyback transformer and the QP2. While tinkering with a digital multimeter, near the QP2 transistor, I caused the fuse to blow. After that accident any fuse would blow once I attempted to turn the Classic on. Following this thread: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/22946-macintosh-classic-keeps-blowing-fuses/ I proceeded to replace: QP2 - transistor - original: CET 48C0 CEF02N6 - replaced with: IRFBC40 CP23 - blue ceramic capacitor - original: HR R 27 IJ 2KV - replaced with: (I will see it when I get home) RP40 - resistor - original: Red Red Brown Gold (220 Ohms 5%) - replaced with: (I will see it when I get home) DP5 - rectifier - original: BYT03 300 C039 - replaced with: (I will see it when I get home) I also replaced the usual bunch of capacitors: (The only reference I had was based on the previous values installed, please inform if you find any abnormal values) CP2 - 470uF - 35v - 10mm - 105° CP6 - 1000uF - 25v - 10mm - 105° CP7 - 1000uF - 25v - 10mm - 105° CP8 - 2200uF - 16v - 13mm - 85° CP9 - 470uF - 25v - 10mm - 85° CP10 - 470uF - 25v - 10mm - 85° CP12 - 1000uF - 25v - 10mm - 105° CP36 - 1000uF - 16v - 10mm - 105° As a result of these replacements I’m back to square one. The fuse no longer blows but there’s no action whatsoever. Yesterday I looked at Larry Pina’s 1993 edition of “Repair and Upgrade Secrets”. In the section dedicated to the Classic’s Analog Board troubleshooting (chapter 9, page 174) he mentioned the RP2 surgistor (?) could be at fault. 12 Ohm=good, 0.0L mOhm=bad. But I don’t know how to use the Digital Multimeter to test this. I resoldered it, but to no avail Additional Data Analog Board: 820-0395-C, 240V, wired JP1 jumper. I attached a picture of the back of the analog board after having removed the bad capacitors and giving it a thorough clean. What can I do now? Do you have any idea/procedure I could try? It’s so sad to see this beauty of a computer standing there, dead. I would love to hear from this community. Thanks
  2. Papichulo

    Hard drives

    Hello Can i try putting a hard drive from a powerbook 145b to a duo 210?
  3. Hi everyone. I have a Macintosh classic. The battery is leaked and corroded a part of the mainboard and I'm trying to repaire it. There is three bad resistors on the under side (R88,89,90). I need to replace them, but I don't know the value of R88 and R89.I think they are both 104 ohm like R90. Can someone help to me please, what are the correct values?
  4. Recently imported a couple of CC ii, they both worked initially. The second one I acquired started right up, but had a "sparking" sound every time it was booted, and every time it shut down (CRT off). I noticed the fan was not working, and the back casing was not flush against the front casing. I took the back off and fitted it flush with the front, screwed it back down. Fan worked, and initially, there was that "sparking sound" but no video. Took it apart again, and this time I noticed that the grounding harness was loose, and detached from the left side bracket. Reinstalled it correctly, grounding cable now against the Trinitron snugly, and reassembled everything as it should. Powered on, no more sparking sound, but no more video, either. System would bong at startup though, and I could hear floppy drive loading the Disk Tools, but nothing shows up on screen, and I don't hear the screen being energized. Removed back, CRT doesn't seem like it's even getting any power. Reading service manual, it mentions that not properly reinstalling the ground harness/cable could damage component/s. Which I figure I probably did. Meh. But I can't, for the life of me, figure out which component/s has been affected. I've looked all over this board, tested a few components for continuity. I'm stumped. Swapped out the analog board from the other CC ii, and the tube/system comes to life. Hazaaaa, the tube is okay! Just the analog board. Grrr. Sooooooo I guess I traded working fan for video...not the best trade ever, I admit Now, I just gotta figure out how to fix the original analog board, because the picture with this other one is not aligned nicely even after I've adjusted the pots in the back (and I'd prefer to have two working CC ii's). Any advice or suggestions/leads that I could try out would be greatly appreciated. I've thought of swapping the flyback transformer, swapping the video board, swapping the....that's pretty much it, actually. Couldn't find any individual components that looked suspicious/damaged, so falling back against my own, I've decided to turn to any experts here who could help me out, please! Cheers,
  5. Caroline

    Macintosh Classic

    I have a Mac Classic that suffered some battery leakage, damaged capacitors and the Y1 oscillator broken. I have cleaned up the board a bit and replaced the capacitors and am replacing the oscillator tomorrow. Should this fix the board (its currently showing a chequerboard screen when turned on)?
  6. I'm repairing a classic. I've so far washed and replaced all capacitors on the logic board, and replaced a few on the analog board. The machine almost works fine except cold starts usually have horizontal lines on screen for the first minute or so. I assume this is due to the capacitors I've yet to replace. However, now when I do a cold start, there's a small chance that I hear a very loud pop. I thought it must be a capacitor exploding so I switched it off immediately and later took it apart to inspect the boards. I found no blown capacitors on either analog or logic board. I plugged the computer back in and turned it on again and it started working again just like before, if not a little better. There was no horizontal lines it just started up perfectly. The next day I turned it on and it booted again perfectly. Then I moved it into another room and it made the loud explosion sound again, then proceeded to successfully boot. What is going on here?
  7. AlexTheCat123

    Macintosh Color Classic Sound Issue

    Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was producing sound, but it was so quiet that even the case fan in the computer overpowered it. Trying to narrow down the cause of the problem, I plugged headphones into the machine and powered it up, hoping for the best. I got a perfect boot chime at normal volume! This leads me to believe that the logic board is not the culprit, although I still plan to recap it since the capacitors were leaky. I have a suspicion that the analog board is causing the problem and that it needs a recap. Can someone confirm this before I order a bunch of capacitors and start the painstaking process of replacing all of the caps on the analog board? It would be great if someone could point out the capacitors on the analog board that deal with the audio so that I would only have to replace those. Also, if I am on the wrong track and the problem is something totally different, please let me know! Thanks! Alex
  8. Retro Rider

    Macintosh Classic horizontal line

    I got 2 Macintosh classic's (with some other stuff) not so long ago, and when I booted up the Mac classics, they both had this line (see picture, although one of them was a little dimmer. Also one in the pic has had varying results). One of them crapped out while I was trying to fix it and smelt like burn, but the other one still shows a line. I haven't really been able to find anyone else with this problem, so how do I fix this?
  9. Hello 68kMLA! This is my first time posting in any kind of forum (unless you count Reddit), so please let me know if I'm doing anything wrong. I recently bought a Macintosh Classic for about $60 on eBay, and wanted to try and get it up and running. This is also one of my first times trying anything out like this, the only other experience I have is buying an IBM Model M No.1391401 and restoring it to working condition. I took out the motherboard hoping that only the capacitors were causing the problem, after reading that it's one of the most common problems, but I was met with a bigger problem, as the title of this post suggests. The battery holder is supposed to be there, but it seems that the battery acid corroded the area around it, causing the battery holder to fall out as well. The metal pins that are supposed to stick out from the holder is stuck inside the board, and a small capacitor that belongs to the Y1 slot near the corroded area has fallen off as well. I guess the advice I'm looking for is what's the best course of action to get this Classic working, if at all? Is it worth to try and get this motherboard fixed, or should I try and look for a new motherboard? Or perhaps am I overlooking other problems that may exist in the computer?
  10. Hi all I'm new to the forum but not, of course, new to loving classic Macs. I've bought a Mac Classic that has been sitting in a cupboard for many years unused. However, it doesn't boot. I'm attaching a picture of the boot screen. The logic board seems to be in good condition (I've replaced the PRAM battery and washed the board with isopropyl alcohol). However, there's one particular connection on the board that worries me - see the attached pics. What do you think? Is the board toast? I'd be very grateful for any help! Cheers CG
  11. I have an analog board of a Classic II that shows a single horizontal line on the screen. I replaced the TEA2037A but that did not change anything. With another analog board, the Mac works. What else can influence the vertical deflection?
  12. Hi everyone, decided to ask for help with repairing the colour classic analog board instead of using it for parts. The details: Fuse was blown on stock CC analog board. Board has been recapped, some new resistors and zener diodes replaced, blew new fuse when switched on. Logic board has been recapped and works inside of my LC575. DF2 is still original and hasn't been checked yet. Any ideas for what to look at?
  13. Hi there, I have got a macintosh classic with a broken motherboard. It gives horizon lines and doesn't boot. I have tried a lot. I have cleaned the motherboard with alcohol, I have cleaned it in soapy water, I have replaced all capacitors, I have checked the traces and contacts, all with no succes. When I got this mac it had a bad battery leak but thankfully no traces were erased but I think (having tried almost everything) some chips got effected by the battery acid. What else can I try other than replacing the motherboard? All sugestions are more than welcome! Thanks, Luuk.
  14. TechEdison

    Retr0Bright Questions

    This coming summer, I will be doing a Retr0Bright treatment on my Macintosh Classic and Plus, including keyboard/mouse. I've got a few questions on methods, so I can end up with the best possible results. -Should I remove the little apple emblem on the front? If so, how do I re-attach it when finished. -Is the original color really nearly white, because after looking at an even slightly yellowed case, it doesn't look right... Looks too "bright" -What's the best method for cleaning/whitening/Retr0Bright-ing the Plus's keyboard and the ADB keyboard/mouse for the classic. Should the keys be removed? What's the best way to do this. -Removing internals... Insulated screwdriver+alligator clips to discharge the CRTs, and then disassemble it, correct? -The plus has a 20SC hard drive, which definitely needs Retr0Bright. Briefly looking it over, it doesn't look straightforward to disassemble, am I missing something? I think those are all the questions I have right now. If there's any other tips or information, I'd love to know that too. As I slowly build a collection, my plan is to have each item look, function, and feel brand new.
  15. dochilli

    Classic analog board 0 Volt

    I have two classic analog boards that show 0 volt at the floppy port. I measured the volts at cp22 and one had 45 Volts, the other had 0 volt. At a functioning board I measured 90 volts, but I read in another thread that there should be 300 volts. Anay ideas, where I can find the defect part?
  16. Double Post, please delete...
  17. Double post, please delete...
  18. Hey guys! Recently I managed to pick up a Macintosh Classic in very good nick, however, it wasn't working. The previous owner told be that he was using it one day, and the Mac made a bang and stopped working. He said that the fuse had gone, and that I would simply have to plug in a new fuse. I took it home and tried to power it up again just to see if I was lucky, but sure enough, it was broken. I didn't hear a hard drive spin, no beep, no CRT noises, nothing. I cracked it open and sure enough, the fuse was missing. I bought an equivalent fuse and plugged it in, I powered it up, but still, nothing happened. Just silence. There had to be a deeper issue. I completely disassembled the Mac, and took a look at the analogue board and found the true culprit. It seemed a track had completely blown off the board. I tested some of the components, mainly the MOSFET and the capacitors to see if they were failing. I noticed some leaky residue underneath the capacitors, so I began re-capping the board. I also noticed a dead-short across the MOSFET, so I scoured digi-key for a replacement. Here's a list of what I replaced: ALL capacitors on the board (I had to buy from two separate brands, Nichon and Saturn) TDA4605 - replaced with TDA4605-3 IRFBC40 - replaced with IRFBC40L CNY75GB - replaced with CNY75B I didn't have any wire, so I bridged that broken track with a lead I had snipped off a capacitor. When I plugged it all back in and tried it again, I was greeted with some jittery checkerboarding. At least it was actually turning on now. But, the CRT was the only thing working at this point, still no beep, still no hard drive noises. I washed all the sticky capacitor residue off with some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, replaced that battery in the motherboard (I replaced the 3.5v battery with a 3.6v of the same type, does this matter?), and replaced all the capacitors. As my local electronics store didn't stock SMD capacitors, I used through-hole ones that I just soldered to the board. However, when I started the Mac, I still had checkerboarding. I noticed that when the RAM module was removed, the checkerboarding turned to straight vertical stripes. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
  19. Hey there. I've got a Color Classic that no longer wants to turn on. When the switch is flicked, you can here it it energize or whatever you want to call it, then when you press the on button on the keyboard, it tries to turn on, then makes a chirping noise and shuts off. I've re-capped most of the board except the big capacitor(no one has one). Any ideas? Thanks I think my mic on my phone is busted.
  20. Hello Recently I got a macintosh classic that have the checkerboard screen issue. When I opened the machine, I saw a huge corrosion mark under the analog board. I thought it would be some leaking capacitors like many macintosh of this model have, I was ready to recap boards. But it's not. Actually no capacitors have leaked, it's the PRAM battery that opened up completely (litteraly). The analog board seems to be fine but the mainboard has been corroded so much that the battery holder has desoldered. I've tried to clean up some of the corrosion with isopropyl alcohol but there's still a lot of this brown heap. I'm now looking for help on how bring that board back to normal running; like get rid of the corrosion and maybe rewire some pcb tracks and put an PRAM equivalent battery. The machine powers up fine to the checkerboard screen, I tested it before opened it. Here's pictures of the disaster: The leak corroded the chassis. Where the leak occured, the battery holder was where the corrosion heap is. It affected some of chips legs and resistors on the other side. The dead battery. The top is slightly open. The battery and its holder. The holder is completly ruined and was desoldered by the corrosion. Hoping that you can get me some help
  21. Hi guys, With your help I got the G5 (hardware 11,2) running Classic Mode. BadGoldEagle posted a link to a Classic Mode tutorial http://web.archive.org/web/20121026093607/http://flylib.com/books/en/ but the Classic mode on my G5 seems to behave differently A couple of things: 1 - I can't seem to get a version of Stuffit to install in the Classic environment. Stuffit 651 installs but it's in the OSX environment. Stuffit 703 starts the install but then it states that it cannot install in the OSX environment. I had thought that with Classic Mode installed, if a program can't run in OSX it runs it in Classic (9.2.2 in my case) 2 - I don't know how to mount a DSK file in the 9.2.2 classic environment. The stuff on the web seems to all talk about how to mount it in OS 10.x 3 - Sometimes when I start Classic Mode it starts a utility that asks me to specify a disk to use. I'm not sure what to do when that happens. I thought Classic mode would just see the files I see in OSX. Sorry for all the noob questions. I'm totally lost :0
  22. Hi guys! A few days ago I bought my first Macintosh Classic (and I suspect the only one in my country). The machine works very well, with only issue of the dead PRAM battery and needed to recap. I'm new to this so I have a question. Very occasionally, when I turn on the mac, an SAD MAC error appears with code 00000003 00004000. This is fixed by restarting the computer. I suspect it is the RAM on the motherboard but I wanted to confirm it with you guys. What would be the solution to stop this error for good? I also have a request. The Mac came with its original System 6.0.7 disks. The main disk works fine, and thanks to this I was able to install the operating system on the hard drive. However the other two are dead. I have tried to get an image of the discs on internet but it is impossible (and buying it on ebay is not a option because of the expensive shipping prices to my country, and because no one insures that they really work). If any of you have the System Adition disk of System 6.0.7 and Macintosh Basic disk for the Macintosh Classic I ask you to upload an image to this post. I attached them some photos of the records that I looking for. Thank you very much to all!
  23. Pablooski

    5.25 Drive fro Macintosh Classic?

    Hi everyone! I would like to know if there is a 5.25 External drive for the Classic Macintosh that can be safely connected. I ask this because on the internet people says about of a major risk in connect to 5.25 unit of the Apple II in these machines. I would also like to know if it is possible that these drives can read IBM / PC format disks. I have many 5.25 discs with word and excel files of my work that I would check and I want to know if it is possible to do it from my Macintosh Classic. Thanks!
  24. Challenger 1983

    Mac classic help

    I got a new motherboard for my Mac classic it has no battery leakage But I still get a checkerboard pattern on the screen Please help Thanks in advance
  25. I picked up a Macintosh Classic at an electronic waste roundup the other week. Despite the case being badly discoloured and giving a RAM-related Sad Mac on boot, I could tell that the Quantum HD was still spinning and the display is really sharp. The machine has its problems, and I'm wondering if it's worth refurbing. Your advice/opinions on the following are welcomed: Capacitors — I recapped the logic board and replaced the PRAM battery. The logic board caps had all leaked, and cleaning up the mess was not fun. The battery, though dead, hadn't leaked. The Fishy Smell — The analogue board looks clean, and the display is steady and sharp. The machine still smells pretty rancid when it warms up, though. I thought I'd cleaned all of the capacitor goo off the logic board (even the stuff crusted under the SCSI controller), but maybe the smell is some left over. Floppy Drive — the SuperDrive doesn't recognize formatted disks. If you let it format one, it clicks through all 80 tracks formatting, then verifies, then reverifies, then spits the disk out with an error. I haven't cleaned the heads or done any of the lubrication tricks yet. RAM — the two 30 pin SIMMs on the daughtercard don't seem to be recognized, so unless I set the jumper to “SIMM not present”, I get the Sad Mac. I tried alternative SIMMs from a local salvage place, but got mostly the same errors. As is, I'm stuck with 2 MB until I work out what's up. Do these daughtercards ever fail? Case — cosmetically horrid, with yellow discoloration on the main case and keyboard. So display, hard drive (completely with slightly messed-up 7.1 installation), keyboard and mouse are fine. I realise that an 8 MHz 68000 ain't all that, so I'm wondering if further work on this is worth the effort.