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Found 6 results

  1. So, I need some help here. I recently got hold of a Macintosh Classic II. It had the whole checkerboard pattern and all. I only remember it booting fine once and then the checkerboard thing happened. So, I recapped the motherboard with nice tantalum caps and I also did part of the analog board (I replaced only the ones described here as well as the two large ones). Yesterday, I put everything back together (after Retr0briting it, of course ;D). To my surprise, the system itself actually booted. However, there's nothing on the screen at all. When I boot it, I hear the chime and later hear a sound from the system, so I can safely assume the motherboard is fine. However, the CRT has no picture at all (not even a line). I went back in to try to fix some things on the analog board. I saw that there was a bit of capacitor fluid around the board, so I gently scrubbed it off wherever I could see it (I assume it's from the old capacitors). Then I booted the system- and still nothing. So then, I went back in to look for cracked solder joints, but really couldn't see any on either the neck board or analog board. As a last ditch effort, I freshened up the solder on the yoke connector. And, as you could expect at this point.. still no display. When I boot the system, everything sounds normal. I hear no arcing or anything that would be signs of issues. The system is fine based on the sounds I hear, but the CRT is blank as ever. So yeah, I could really use some suggestions as to what I should do now.... I can provide images of whatever if needed.
  2. I just read through the CRT guide posted above and most of the talk revolved around the CRT and Analog board compatibility. My question is will the connector from the analog board work with any logic board? I understand that some boards are larger or smaller than others but my question is if they are interchangeable. I read somewhere sometime that an SE can be "upgraded" by putting in a SE/30 logic board (PDS slot size issues may happen). Basically the situation is that I have an SE/30 that I need to recap but I want to see if this Classic II logic board will work in it while I wait for the parts. Thanks in advance.
  3. Tsiatric

    Classic II beyond repair?

    I got a Classic II with assorted goodies off Craigslist for a good deal, with the only problem being the infamous leaking logic board caps. Not having a decent iron at the time, I decided to clean the board as best I could with q-tips, alcohol, and patience, just to see if the system would work at all. And it did! For a time. But when it came time to properly replace the caps, that's when it all went wrong. Pads and traces starting lifting left and right, with some traces snapping off the pads entirely. I tried different temperatures and techniques, but nothing made it better. In the end, about half of the pads came off. Is there anything I can do to salvage this? Everything else about the machine works great, even the hard drive, so it'd be a shame for this to become a shelf ornament.
  4. naryasece

    Classic II Wash/recapping

    Hi all, I am finally working to recap/restore my Classic II that has been out of commission for the last 8 years, using it as practice to refurbish the rest of my collection. The Classic II had weak sound and stopped booting a number of years ago but I have some newbie questions for the refurbishment process. I purchased replacement capacitors as per uniserver's diagrams, got the case cracked open and proceeded with an initial wash as prep before surgery. My steps were: Wash with water spray 91% isopropyl alcohol, swirly motions in a tub of water spray again with alcohol delicately clean around capacitors with a q-tip rinse with water fan dry for about 6 hours The good news, the computer booted right up when the mother board was dry (as best I could tell). I hope I did the wash correctly, but my questions are: The water at my place is soft from what I can tell, I figured tap water would be fine given some motherboards go through the dishwasher. Am I correct to assume this? Should I have avoided the tap water or used distilled water instead? Should I skip water altogether and stick with just the isopropyl alcohol? The motherboard has gunk between the pins of the chips (See attachment), should I be worried about this? I think I noticed some green corrosion on a copper lead (or two), should try to clean it with vinegar/salt (like a US penny) or get some copper cleaner? Anything else I can do to protect the leads/pins on the motherboard? Thanks in advance! Edit: hopefully got the image attached this time Attachment:
  5. On the very first try too! Well, not my first recap job but the first to get a dead machine limping... It's the Classic II I found in the trash a couple of weeks ago. It came up with thick B/W bars and did nothing. While I waited for caps to arrive, I checked out the hard drive, it's on its last legs but I managed to rescue the system, apps and files on it. Then I managed to low level format it with Sliver Lining, and that seems to bring the hard drive back to life. Did the recapping today as soon as the caps came in - SMD/SMT Tantalums and Ceramics. I chose this mix as to something I read on an old post by Uniserver that you can use any caps to recap a board, but preferably they should be solid state caps. I found the Ceramics to be pennies on the dollar compared to Tantalums, but for those f'ed up leaky 47µf caps I chose black Tantalums. The board looks nice though a couple of caps are crooked. I also used SMD/SMT Solder paste, though used an iron to heat things up. This was a great help and made the job EASY! 10 Caps later and the board was done. But would it work? I put the Classic II back together and turned it on. No "Beep!" but the screen lit up in shifting grey pixels. I was wondering what was going on until I realized it was the memory test for the Classic and then the Mouse pointer came up. This was followed by the Sliver Lining SCSI ID and finally it booted in a few seconds! It works! But with no sound. I tried the Sound control panel, nothing. I put in headphones (though I'm not sure if they worked themselves as my iPod headphones are missing), still nothing. I still got to clean the board up from the excess solder and flux, but at least I get it this far! Perhaps on Saturday I'll work on it some more. BTW: The Classic II has 4megs of RAM, 2 megs on the motherboard and 2 - 1 meg SIMMs. I would like to get it to 10 megs, so I would need 2 - 4 megs SIMMs. It's on System 7.0.1. What you guys think is wrong with the sound?
  6. This has been on my mind for years, and have never acted on it. But where does it say that an LC or Classic is stuck at 10 Megs of RAM? Most II Series data bus is 32 bits, thus making a 4MB address into 16MB of RAM in 32 bit. But the LC and a couple of others are 16 bits, which would make a 4MB address into 8MB of RAM in 16 bit. Thus the 10MB RAM size in an LC is just in 16 bits. If the bus can be expanded to 32 bits, it increases the RAM size to double! Since finding the Classic II and comparing it to the SE/30, there is very little difference between 16 bit Classic II and the 32 bit SE/30. The SIMMs share many lines. Thus is one can pull out the lines into a separate board to add RAM into the missing 16 bits, I believe one can expand the RAM to double on these machines. Looking at the Classic II, there are 4 - 4 bit X 1 Meg Chips - 44C1000-8, giving the board 2 MB in 16 bits. On a separate board with 4 more 44C1000-8, and have them share all but the Data Bus Lines and then line up each data bus line to the missing bits, you have just increased the RAM from 2 MB in 16 bits to 4 MB in 32 bits. Doing the same with 2 added SIMM sockets on the same board, you can now increase the RAM on the Classic II from 10MB to 20MB! Question is, would ROM Routines stop this? The ROMs themselves are in 32 bits - 4 - 27C010 EPROMS on my board; each 27C010 is 8 bits wide. 4 X 8 is 32. This is also true with the LCs So the question is, can it be done? In theory it can. In my mind I believe it can. So I provide a simple diagram from which a board can be drawn up. If you think that it can't, explain what you know. Don't just say that it can't, prove from what you know why it can't. Given time and money I will try to build such a board and try it on the Classic II. If successful, then I can design and create another for the LC's.