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Found 17 results

  1. I recently bought a Macintosh Quadra 700 off of eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-Macintosh-Quadra-700-M5920-Desktop-Computer-w-Harddrive-Mac-iMac/273781054522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) and it has some corrosion on the logic board from a leaky battery. When I was cleaning the corrosion off, several components fell off of the board. The parts that came off were R71, C61, R76, R77, Y6, and C65. D5, D6, and U91 are still on the board, but their pins don't look too great. U92 has nearly all of its pins broken off and it is hanging on by two or three pins. I tested the continuity of all of the traces that I could follow in the damaged area and everything seemed to be connected. When I try to turn the computer on, the power LED lights up and the speaker clicks once (but does not chime). Do you think that the symptoms are caused by the missing parts or are the power-on issues more likely the fault of bad traces that I didn't catch? If any of the missing parts are necessary for operation, please tell me the correct component value so that I can replace them. I hope that U92 is not needed for the machine to power on because it seems to be a custom chip that is probably impossible to find. Attached are some pictures of the damaged area so that you can see what I am referring to. I hope I can save this one because I have always wanted a working Quadra 700!
  2. MattB

    PB190 Battery Leak

    I have a working 190 that I salvaged from my high school several years when they were disposing of old hardware. When I got it the battery had already leaked slightly and it hasn't gotten any worse over time since I pulled the battery out and store it separately, but now I'm on a restoration kick after doing some work on my Kanga and I want to bring my 190 back up to factory condition. The condition of both the battery and the bay is in the attached images. The machine works properly on AC power with no issues and for obvious reasons the battery is never inserted. Given the current condition, how should I go about cleaning up the battery bay? Or has the acid done too much damage to the contacts to ever run on battery power again?
  3. Hello all, It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted here, and it’s good to be back! I had a quick question for you Portable people out there: I just recently recapped a clean-looking backlit model, and it seems to be working fine off of my bench supply running at 6.8v. The problem is, lowering the voltage to 6.7, 6.6, or 6.5v makes booting either hit-or-miss or impossible. Also, I bought a new 6V 5Ah SLA battery (not the cyclon pack) to power the system. Even after being charged up to its max of 6.6V, while connected to the original charger, the machine refuses to boot completely. Sometimes it gets farther on just the battery, but never all the way. I guess my question is this: is this normal for a backlit Portable? Is there some difference in the Cyclon battery that would bring it within spec? I would imagine the system should function properly at 6.5V given it’s designed to run for hours. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks guys!
  4. My friend calls me and tells me that her iMac died. I gave her this years ago. Now I know why. It chimes, black screen. Now the fun begins. Maybe someone here has a logic board they can part with? The stuff is a little smelly.
  5. Since this is absolutely the place to contemplate this question, I've been thinking about how to make my Wallstreet mobile again. I had a thought: What if you took the innards out of an existing dead battery pack and installed a cheap USB power bank in the case and used it in the slot? Could you run the machine with just the power leads connected, or would it complain if it didn't see anything connected to the charging pins? Would the machine be able to tell the level of charge just from the power output? Basically, does anyone have a schematic for the charging system I can review before I spend any money? I look forward to hearing your thoughts. EDIT: By the way, has anybody used these guys? http://laptoprescue.com/Powerbook-Battery/
  6. I bought a PowerBook G3 WallStreet model a while back that appears to be the first revision 233mhz with the lame zero L2 cache. It came with 2 floppy modules installed and no battery or optical drive. I got a new in box CD module for next to nothing but I have been unable to find a battery. Does anyone know of any replacements, aftermarket, etc? I can live without it but it would be nice to have. The PRAM battery is dead and unlike my TiBook G4 that is 2 years newer it won't charge the PRAM battery even after being plugged in for a week now. Oh well, not critical I guess. I can probably shoehorn some other cells that are the same voltage and Lithium rechargeable in there as the cells they used are quite pricey. If I had a battery pack then that would be unnecessary anyway. As for the gimped no cache 233mhz is it possible to install a CPU card from the 266 or 300mhz PDQ, which was the next revision of WallStreet? I have read that they work but I didn't want to try it for fear of frying the logic board or something. Has anyone any information on this or tried it? I believe there were also aftermarket CPU upgrades but I am sure those are pretty rare and pricey. None of these things are crucial but I do know the CPU upgrade with cache would be a decent boost as I have seen the difference in two models with and without. Overall this is a great machine and I think I prefer these over the Ti G4's.
  7. Hi folks Do any of you have any idea where I can source a replacement pram battery for a 300MHz Wallstreet (PDQ) laptop? or know the spec of the battery so I can make a replacement? Also, do any of you have any tips on opening the main battery, for rebuild? Before I start trying to hack it open, I'm hoping someone has been there before! I've decided to revive my oldest still in one piece laptop, my old PC laptop went pop, so had to get binned. This got me through university, so has a lot of memories. The main battery does take a charge, but only barely. the PRAM battery is shot as far as I can tell. I'm going to leave it plugged in for a day or so, see if it'll top up the battery and revive it, but I'm not hopeful. The CD drive works, but only if i mvoe the laser to the furthest out part of the track before putting a cd in. I think it's getting stuck right in the centre upon eject, is there an easy way to sort that out, or am I looking at a new drive? It doesn't seem to be a standard atapi cdrom in the case, so I doubt I can replace the guts of it easily I'd like to use it to get files onto my mac classic at some point in the future too, is it possible to use the serial ports in both machines to do localtalk, or are they too far apart in age? Thanks
  8. jefframsey

    New Member, Old Mac SE

    Hi 68kLBA, I am new here. My name is Jeff Ramsey. I am a 38 year old IT professional, and I've been in the business around 20 years. When I was a kid in school, my first experiences with computers were with my grandmother's Commodore 64, and then I got my own Commodore 64. In grade school, we did not have Commodores, we had Apple II or Mac 512s. I envied those machines so much! They were way out of my price range, but man they were cool! Anyhow, now I have three kids and we love to play both current and retro games. At the same time, I wanted a project to do at home. Sort of a computer "hobby" project. SO I decided to start by refurbishing a Comact Mac. (Starting to sound more like my first day at Alcoholics Anonymous than my first post here at this point, huh? HI, I'm Jeff, and this is where I screwed up...) I bought an SE (FD/HD model 5011) from an elderly lady's closet. (Don't ask what I was doing in a 90 year old lady's closet.) It had been sitting for years. It powered up, the screen was clean, a little bit of screen burn, but clearly working. It was asking for a floppy. I paid $40 and took it home. I made some System 6.0.8 disks and it booted and ran! I didn't remember the date or time (dead battery) and didn't see the hard drive at all. I made a disk for "The Oregon Trail" and played all the way through with my daughter. We made it to Willamette with 3 of our 5 still alive. Yay! Now I wanted to upgrade the 1MB ram to 4MB and I wanted to fix the hard drive, so I made a 12" long T15 (my friend made the tool with a short bit and a bit of round stock steel. Thanks Tyler.) and opened her up. Here is what I found: I wasn't prepared to deal with this bad of a battery issue last night, so I just installed the RAM chips, changed the jumper for the RAM, replacement hard drive then buttoned her back up. What I got was discouraging. The hard drive still does not show up in SC HD Setup, and although the memory is showing 4mb now, the machine is crashing randomly now. It will run for a few minutes and then either a "bomb" system error or just freeze up. I am getting ready to clean the entire mainboard here in a few minutes. I looked at all of the caps and they all looked ok, non were burst or bulging, but I will look at them again more closely. Aside from that, is there anything that I am looking for? Thanks
  9. Hello Recently I got a macintosh classic that have the checkerboard screen issue. When I opened the machine, I saw a huge corrosion mark under the analog board. I thought it would be some leaking capacitors like many macintosh of this model have, I was ready to recap boards. But it's not. Actually no capacitors have leaked, it's the PRAM battery that opened up completely (litteraly). The analog board seems to be fine but the mainboard has been corroded so much that the battery holder has desoldered. I've tried to clean up some of the corrosion with isopropyl alcohol but there's still a lot of this brown heap. I'm now looking for help on how bring that board back to normal running; like get rid of the corrosion and maybe rewire some pcb tracks and put an PRAM equivalent battery. The machine powers up fine to the checkerboard screen, I tested it before opened it. Here's pictures of the disaster: The leak corroded the chassis. Where the leak occured, the battery holder was where the corrosion heap is. It affected some of chips legs and resistors on the other side. The dead battery. The top is slightly open. The battery and its holder. The holder is completly ruined and was desoldered by the corrosion. Hoping that you can get me some help
  10. I rebuilt this powerbook 1400c battery and it was working beautifully until suddenly it wasn't. I tested everything and narrowed it down to this mysterious component no longer conducting electricity... any ideas what this is, can I find a replacement? Can I just cut this out and patch with wire? What would have caused it to fail after working for a few weeks?
  11. zuctronic

    Macintosh Portable Power Issues

    So I recently acquired a Mac Portable. As soon as it arrived I took it apart, re-capped the motherboard and hooked it up to a replacement battery. Everything was going well, actually no issue at all last night. I was able to mount some Appletalk volumes and play some games, it seemed pretty stable. This morning I decided to break open the original apple battery and toss my new cell in there. While testing this configuration, I accidentally hooked up the battery with reversed polarity... I know, this was dumb. Now I'm having issues again. Here are the symptoms: 1. Will not power on at all without wall charger plugged in. 2. Randomly crashes when doing anything. 3. It will go to sleep, but when it wakes up it either crashes with a crash chime or it just reboots. 4. System 6 "battery" meter shows battery slightly above middle charge all the time now (I doubt its accuracy!) 5. When I try to change the date, the system crashes / reboots. Any ideas? Could it be just a fuse? Is there an easy way to troubleshoot this without a meter? Thanks in advance! I hope I can get this back to life again...
  12. I'm an experience programmer on modern hardware, and I thought I would try my hand at creating some classic mac os software. I purchased volumes 1-6 of Inside Macintosh on Amazon and I've been familiarizing myself with the basic ideas. Heres my current goal. I've got a few macs that will run without a clock battery, and I would like to leave them without a battery. I store my macs for long periods of time and I dont want to install a battery just to take it back out again when I put the mac away. SOOO, I want to create an extension that sets the time if the current time is before 2016. and I want it to pop up a dialog on startup. I think this is possible because Appleshare will pop up a dialog on startup if appletalk is turned off. So far, I've managed to write a program that opens a dialog and sets the system clock. When I go to convert this to an extension, It opens a dialog, however it also causes a bus error and crashes the machine. My understanding is that a bus error has to do with memory bounds. Are there special rules about running code on startup? do I need to do something to increase the available memory? Does anyone on here have experience doing this?
  13. bdurbrow

    Dodged the SE battery bullet!

    So, I just popped open that SE that I was given, fearing the worst... but, NO! No acid spilled across the Logic Board: ... and that battery has a date code of 6/88!
  14. J English Smith

    Lombard/Pismo Batteries

    No relation to seller - this is the best price I've seen in quite a while on new batteries from Apple service parts for the main G3 batteries. And they even offer a 30-day warranty. For anyone after a battery for a Pismo or Lombard, this would definitely be cheaper than re-celling. They appear to have multiples... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Apple-PowerBook-G3-Rechargeable-Battery-M7318-661-2295-/400963410856?hash=item5d5b481ba8:g:EekAAOSwpDdVCgIK
  15. Carboy7

    Battery help 520c

    I need a bit of help to fix a powerbook 500 series battery. Battery recondition doesn't work. The computer used to sense the battery, but now it is not usable. However, the battery still gives off some power. I'm thinking of recelling the battery in the future. Anyone got suggestions? (because i'm not paying 200$ for a new battery.)
  16. Lets see how much churn I can create here? According to this article, your laptop better cab be used as a hacking device against you and your Apple Laptop. Though this applies to newer more advanced laptop batteries with a smart chip in them, this hack can in theory work for both older Apple and PC Laptops. It all depends on the complexity and sophistication of the smart chip in the battery. Mind you, this article was written in 2011. Not much was done to improve the situation as it stans. But they have to get into your machine somehow first to do this... Then they own you. https://threatpost.com/apple-laptop-batteries-can-be-bricked-firmware-hacked-072211/75464
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