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SalvationCoder

6502
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About SalvationCoder

  • Birthday 11/22/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    Vintage electronics, astronomy, gardening, cooking, hiking, nature photography

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  1. SalvationCoder

    Value of Apple IIc?

    A year or two ago fully refurbished IIc's were going for around $400.
  2. SalvationCoder

    LC 550 sells for over $100

    From what I've seen, I presume that Macs have a roughly V-shaped curve when value is plotted over time. Expensive when they first come out, the value drops over 10-20 years until they're considered nothing more than obsolete and worthless, and then from that point on the value rises as they get "vintage" status and become increasingly rare as the ones that weren't just thrown away when they were worthless are bought up by collectors. I think the 5xx series in particular has a steeply increasing value because so many of them have literally gotten smashed to bits. If you want one, get it at the going price now, or you'll be paying over $1,000 in a few years.
  3. SalvationCoder

    LC Fan and Speaker Clicking

    I just started having the same problem with my LC about a week ago: I turned my Mac on, only to get a popping sound which I traced to the speaker. Opening it up, I saw that the fan was also twitching with each pop. I pulled the fan/speaker assembly and got just a faint clicking from the power supply. There was also a faint clicking from the hard drive, which stopped when I unhooked the drive and made it easier to hear the ticking power supply. Disconnecting the drives changed nothing else about the Mac's behavior. At this point I started guessing the power supply was the source of the trouble. Through sheer persistence, I did get it to chime and start booting up a few times, but I got the "no disk" screen even though I could hear the hard drive starting to spin up. A startup floppy would boot the machine. Any time it booted to this point, I could restart it and it still worked, but a hard reboot usually resulted in the clicking/popping for many more tries. Still guessing it might be the power supply, I pulled it and took a look. There was one bad capacitor that had opened up. I was pretty certain it was the power supply by now, so I checked eBay for a spare and found one for my LC. The listing said "guaranteed to work." Well, today it arrived, I hooked it up, and still almost the same problem. The only difference is that the clicking keeps going for a couple of seconds after I cut the power (whereas previously the clicking stopped immediately after switching off the machine), and when it occasionally boots through persistence, I've been getting the smiling Mac and going partway through the boot process before it suddenly cuts off, everything goes black, and it's back to the popping/ticking. I inspected the new one, and there's no evidence of any blown capacitors. Did I get ripped off on the power supply, with a bad cap I just can't see, or could something else be bad? I've disconnected every peripheral, both drives, and the fan/speaker assembly, so the only thing that could still be bad is the logic board or the SIMMs. I'm reluctant to try replacing the logic board ore memory without knowing for sure it's not the power supply. Likewise, I'm reluctant to try recapping either power supply without knowing for sure it's not something else. I'm not even sure how to go about troubleshooting the SIMMs (will it even boot without them if everything else was fine?). I'd appreciate some troubleshooting advice. Aside from this, this Mac was otherwise in pristine condition.
  4. SalvationCoder

    Apple Monitor II, A2M2010, in Amber?

    My Monitor II manual mentions both green and amber options.
  5. SalvationCoder

    Found these two parts in my disk drive of 800k Macintosh SE

    I found these same bits in the original 800k floppy drive of my 512ke after I took it out of my closet and felt confident enough to restore it. The floppy drive had been basically shot (with short bouts of functionality) ever since I got it, and had only deteriorated from there. When I replaced it, I found pieces just like those rattling around. I never did determine with certainty exactly what they were, but circumstantial evidence led me to suspect that they were part of the read/write head assembly.
  6. SalvationCoder

    Where Do I Even Start?

    Well, I'm trying again. I got a Performa 575 on eBay and I'm having it shipped out the day after labor day. The seller is having it packaged by a company that specializes in packing things for shipping, who he regards very highly. Apparently they've had a perfect track record with his fragile computer shipments. Additionally I am paying a bit extra to have it double boxed. It is going by UPS as the seller has reported having the best luck with them and horrible luck with USPS. Does anyone here recommend any special packing directions?
  7. SalvationCoder

    AppleCD 300 driver

    Update: Finally got my AppleCD 300 fully working with version 5.3.1 of the CD-ROM driver, which I found on the Internet and transferred to my LC using Floppy Emu. I wonder why this made a difference?
  8. SalvationCoder

    Where Do I Even Start?

    Update: I got a refund and I left positive feedback for the seller. I'm convinced he wasn't at fault, and the fault was with Canada Post who didn't take good care of a package with "fragile" labels highly visible from every angle. The kicker was when they sent me a questionnaire asking if I thought the package could have survived a three foot drop (as if that kind of thing was expected to be routine for them). The seller is just as disappointed as I am. It was his first computer and he was hoping a collector like me could give it a new lease on life. I was going to put it in my "Retro Computer Lab" at work so my students could learn from a 500-series Mac just like I did in middle school.
  9. SalvationCoder

    AppleCD 300 driver

    The floppy disk I got from eBay is Macintosh CD-ROM Setup Version 4.0, from 1992. Update: I still haven't gotten this working...
  10. SalvationCoder

    AppleCD 300 driver

    I have working AppleCD 300 that I'm trying to bring up to normal functionality (i.e., reading CDs when I insert them into the drive). I have it hooked up to a Macintosh LC running System 7.0. The drive will read a bootable CD when I restart the computer. But, then it doesn't let me eject or trash the CD. Also, if I restart the computer with a bootable CD in the drive and a floppy boot disk (Disk Tools) in the floppy drive, it boots from the floppy and loads the driver from the CD so that the CD reads and it lets me eject it and read other CDs. (I saw that trick on another thread.). Of course, then I have some other issues due to the floppy having been the boot disk instead of the hard drive. Anything else and the computer doesn't respond to the CD at all. For my needs, I have to be able to boot from the hard drive and then read non-bootable CDs from the 300. I'm assuming I'm missing a necessary driver. I did get a driver floppy on eBay, but nothing changed after I ran the installation, so I'm guessing it's not a compatible driver. Apparently it's for an AppleCD 300i instead of the 300 (it says nothing about that on the label, but the readme on the disk says 300i). I was not expecting it to be this particular. Which driver do I actually need for my setup?
  11. SalvationCoder

    Where Do I Even Start?

    So I bought a Performa 580CD on eBay recently. It was in full working condition when it was shipped, but it was badly damaged during shipping (see attached photos). The front of the case is completely broken away from the rear. Looks like it was thrown from the back of a truck. Currently seeking a refund. Naturally, it no longer works. When trying to power it on, nothing comes on--no power light on the front panel, no hard drive spinning up, no display, no sound. No static on the CRT screen. The only thing I think I hear is a faint sound for about half a second that sounds like an old CRT TV starting to come on, but quieter. The CRT, which is supposed to be mounted to the front of the case, is completely broken free and basically hanging with only friction and the internal microphone wire keeping the front of the case from totally falling off and the CRT from falling out. I don't actually see any obvious damage to the internal components, but something is obviously broken. I don't know how to go about testing the boards or parts to see what's junk and what isn't. I don't have access to a known good machine and I don't have any known good spare parts to use in troubleshooting. I do have some of the typical benchtop test equipment (digital multimeter, LC meter, digital oscilloscope, regulated DC power supply, audio signal generator, isolation transformer). I don't want to just toss it or break it down for parts. I'd like to find a new case and then get it working again, but as I said I'm at a loss as far as troubleshooting goes, especially with the current damaged physical state of the machine. Ideas?
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