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jimjimx

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About jimjimx

  • Birthday April 4

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    Chicago, IL, USA

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  1. jimjimx

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    @Iesca Here’s the pictures of my toasted PSU, and my slapdash connection of the old PowerBook cable to the new IBM PSU. Essentially, Red and Orange to +16V, and Blue, Black and Shield, to Ground.
  2. jimjimx

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    I had the same problem. One day it worked, and the next, it didn’t. Once I pried open the case and unsoldered the shield, I saw too much black carbon to deal with. And it was too densely packed for me at the time. I replaced it with one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-IBM-16V-4-5A-AC-Power-Adapter-Charger-OEM/293051877023?hash=item443b40c69f:g:V6AAAOSwX4Bco~OG The original cable needs to changed from 4 to 2 wire, but it works perfectly now. I forget the colors of the wires that get paired, but there’s a diagram somewhere online. Or, if you are going to do this, let me know, and I’ll look at my psu and let you know what I did.
  3. jimjimx

    Se/30 have to bang the box to get a screen

    some of the joints I had on my 512kE These are VERY bad. Make sure to use a very hot solder iron, to get a good flow and don't dwell on the joint too long, or you'll lift the trace, and use some good flux
  4. jimjimx

    Se/30 have to bang the box to get a screen

    We’ve all had this problem. It’s cold solder joints on the analog board. Open up the computer, take off the white shield (those black plastic push rivets come apart, and can be reused), and start soldering. This is one of the simpler fixes, as there’s not a whole lot of taking apart, but if ya don’t have a 9” T-15 screwdriver to open the case, it’s not easy at all......
  5. jimjimx

    Free Macintosh Plus!

    You are correct in calling it a “anode cap”. It is not a suction cup. It’s there to keep the 10,000 volts in.
  6. jimjimx

    J1, it’s not the solder joints

    The 512kE is my room clock, and I have files with my passwords on it.. I also use the SE/30 for midi. The G3 as a tech bridge. I have never owned a new computer, and just don’t have the need for one, and don’t want to “chase technology”. i don’t play games, or do HD A/V processing. I have a new MacBook at work for A/V, that’s enough for me. My home daily driver is a 2.26ghz 2009 white MacBook, and the 2017 iPad I’m using now.. I guess the newest piece of tech I have is the iPhone 7 Plus that my boss gave me.
  7. jimjimx

    Info needed

    Essentially, I thought it’s about using retro hardware for a month. If you play video games, put away your PlayStation, Wii, Xbox, and only use a SE or IIci, etc. to play games for a whole month. macintosh garden is a good place to get software, if it hasn’t been uploaded in a chewed up form from the Microsoft emulating Mac OS crowd. Or, put down your MacBook, and use a 604, or G3 for web access. MacOS9Lives.com is helpful for using OS9, and even 8, connecting to the web.
  8. jimjimx

    J1, it’s not the solder joints

    Yes. Thank you. If I can, I’ll let everyone know how & where to get parts, which not everyone does, but should.
  9. jimjimx

    C1 from "Classic Mac Repair Notes"

    I’ve seen other people post pictures & video, and see that they’ve been using the same, or similar (some people use 400v, but I don’t like the larger physical size, the 250v is tough enough to fit in there, and I like to keep everything straight and neat).
  10. jimjimx

    C1 from "Classic Mac Repair Notes"

    The easier solution is a single cap with good ESR built in. Ive been using this, with great success. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-E2395JB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF0%2BjlB8SXIRuf09bNNZbGIg%3D
  11. jimjimx

    Damaged ROM SIMM Socket on SE/30

    These look like they’ll fit. https://www.esi-components.com/store/p53/Century_Interconnect_CSM64-A-T-P_SIMM_Socket_64_Pin.html http://elcodis.com/parts/241509/822033-2.html
  12. jimjimx

    J1, it’s not the solder joints

    I found all the jack pieces here https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0015311046/WM1042-ND/313615/?itemSeq=287242932 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0019091049/WM1606-ND/26362/?itemSeq=287243257 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/02-09-5106/WM6388-ND/252899/?itemSeq=287243638
  13. I’m not done watching yet, but you forgot the J1 pieces I was looking for... Thanks for the help to find them. When I type in those #s to mouser, it shows me a 6 pin connector. ?! https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0015311046/WM1042-ND/313615/?itemSeq=287242932 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0019091049/WM1606-ND/26362/?itemSeq=287243257 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/02-09-5106/WM6388-ND/252899/?itemSeq=287243638
  14. jimjimx

    J1, it’s not the solder joints

    Anyone know if there’s a replacement? Or know the part #?
  15. jimjimx

    J1, it’s not the solder joints

    It’s on at least 12 hrs. everyday. I assume it was micro arcing, which leads to carbon, which leads to more arcing, more carbon, more arcing....... It’s not dirt buildup, the interior is spotless.. As a matter of fact, it’s on now..
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