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  1. Lisa Keyboard Pads

    I do the same, I use low density foam from Home Depot which is sticky on one side and permanent double sided tape which does not require any peeling. Then I punch out the sandwich. The other key it so make sure the Mylar(space blanket) has the non conductive side outward since it’s not about conduction of electricity but the capacitance change of a compressed foam/disk with the Mylar.
  2. Lisa 2/10 Error code 82 :(

    I don’t think that would be an option for the FloppyEmu. It only emulates an Hd20 because the HD20 was hacked by Apple into the floppy port for a Mac 512/512e. The Lisa can’t even use two floppy drives at once. The widget connects to a dedicated parallel interface which makes it a major hardware change required for the FloppyEmu to act as an HD and at that point it would be a completely new product. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could built one of these john.ccac.rwth-aachen.de:8000/patrick/idefile.htm
  3. Lisa 2/10 Error code 82 :(

    I don’t think the floppyEmu can emulate a Lisa hard drive (profile or widget). For that you need something like an XProfile. When setting up my Lisa before I got my widget working, I used the floppyEmu to install BLU on my XProfile, made a floppy and then used BLU to test and fix my hard drive. First step to get the widget running is to adjust the brake. You will need a feeler gadge from the auto parts store. then blow out the motor spindle with a can of air or compressor. Dust can cause the drive not to spin. Plug the drive in and manually turn the spindle to get it started while power is applied. It should spin if everything else is ok. Let it spin for an hour or so. It will get better usually. Mine went from a scream to normal after about 45 minutes. In my case then I needed a low level format with BLU and then a full Lisa Office install. I then put my widget away and use the XProfile for normal use since it’s solid state with an industrial CF card. Cheers, Corey
  4. Anyone have a DC42 image of Lisa COBOL

    Exactly why I want it...!!!! Thanks...
  5. I can't seem to find a good copy anywhere, just links to the documentation and pictures of the box. I'm looking for the version that is native Lisa and not one for XENIX. Thanks in advance, Cheers, Corey
  6. Retr0Bright Questions

    I found the best results actually were to complete remove all the plastic parts,and emblems. Use liquid mask on any paper decals that I couldn’t remove with a hair dryer for reattachment later and simply take a giant plastic Rubbermaid tub (not see though) and fill it with a gallon of 40 liquid peroxide developer and the rest with water and seal the top. You can also add some oxyclean to the mix. Also make sure everything is submerged. Agitate every few hours and after a day flip the stuff around to make sure it’s even. After 2 days everything comes out nice and de-yellowed. No UV or sun required. Rinse with clean water, dry and reattach any paper decals with either double sided tape or contact cement. And reassemble the unit. Comes out awesome.
  7. 400k drive microswitches

    Thanks, solved it. It seems that there was a cold solder joint on that front microswitch. It wasn't glowing. now it is... All seems good now...
  8. 400k drive microswitches

    I'm using a scratch disk that should prompt me to initialize, the system doesn't recognize anything is in the drive. The pressure pad is present and it does go in all the way. Thanks, Cheers, Corey
  9. 400k drive microswitches

    OK, thanks. Well I cleaned them with 99.9% ISP and still nothing. When I insert a disk, the drive spins, but the computer doesn't see that a disk is inserted. Any ideas on what to check? Thanks, Corey
  10. 400k drive microswitches

    Ok. My new to me external 400k drive doesn’t see when a disk is inserted. I cleaned and lubed the ejection mechanism already. The drive was pretty dirty, so I’m guessing the microswitche(s) are dirty. Before I take the whole drive apart, are these optical because they look like a U shape with a piece of plastic going down the middle attached to levers and stuff or are they simple mechanical switches? That will help me figure out how to clean them. If mechanical, would flushing them with ISP in an eye dropper help, then actuating them a whole bunch of time. Also any hints for cleaning the switches would be helpful. Thanks, Corey
  11. Do you happen to have a caps list for the electrolytics on video board and psu? BTW, The Lisa hasn’t been powered on in years. So I expect to treat it like it hasn’t been powered on since the 80’s. Cheers, Corey
  12. So I have a Lisa 2/10 that should arrive any day now. Since it's a 2/10 I don't have to worry about the battery leaking, but what do I need to check/change before I attempt the 1st power on? I know it's a good idea to replace the X2 safety caps in the power supply as I have heard they will generally go pop. Should I also replace all the electrolytic in the supply? Since it's a switching supply, I assume a Variac won't work. Should I check the voltages at the Widget drive power connector? I am going to assume the Widget is dead or near the end of it's life, so I ordered a CF Card replacement from vintagemicro. Thanks for any advice, Cheers, Corey
  13. I want to be able to send postscript from my Mac 128k to the serial port so it can be sent to an Postscript enabled HP Laser printer that doesn't have LocalTalk. Thanks, Corey
  14. Retrobrite Fail :(

    1000 grit wet sand paper is faster, then use the plastic polish for a final buff. Btw. On many heavily "used" keyboards the space bar naturally gets buffed in one spot, you can usually see it in bright lights like a museum uses to accent an artifact. Sometimes wet sanding is the only way to make it look even by to buffing the whole thing. If it winds up too shiny then you can simply use 2000 grit wet sand paper to make it not reflect by being careful in the pattern you sand. Another option is to use a spray matte finish clear. Cheers, Corey