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  1. Retr0Bright Questions

    I found the best results actually were to complete remove all the plastic parts,and emblems. Use liquid mask on any paper decals that I couldn’t remove with a hair dryer for reattachment later and simply take a giant plastic Rubbermaid tub (not see though) and fill it with a gallon of 40 liquid peroxide developer and the rest with water and seal the top. You can also add some oxyclean to the mix. Also make sure everything is submerged. Agitate every few hours and after a day flip the stuff around to make sure it’s even. After 2 days everything comes out nice and de-yellowed. No UV or sun required. Rinse with clean water, dry and reattach any paper decals with either double sided tape or contact cement. And reassemble the unit. Comes out awesome.
  2. 400k drive microswitches

    Thanks, solved it. It seems that there was a cold solder joint on that front microswitch. It wasn't glowing. now it is... All seems good now...
  3. 400k drive microswitches

    I'm using a scratch disk that should prompt me to initialize, the system doesn't recognize anything is in the drive. The pressure pad is present and it does go in all the way. Thanks, Cheers, Corey
  4. 400k drive microswitches

    OK, thanks. Well I cleaned them with 99.9% ISP and still nothing. When I insert a disk, the drive spins, but the computer doesn't see that a disk is inserted. Any ideas on what to check? Thanks, Corey
  5. 400k drive microswitches

    Ok. My new to me external 400k drive doesn’t see when a disk is inserted. I cleaned and lubed the ejection mechanism already. The drive was pretty dirty, so I’m guessing the microswitche(s) are dirty. Before I take the whole drive apart, are these optical because they look like a U shape with a piece of plastic going down the middle attached to levers and stuff or are they simple mechanical switches? That will help me figure out how to clean them. If mechanical, would flushing them with ISP in an eye dropper help, then actuating them a whole bunch of time. Also any hints for cleaning the switches would be helpful. Thanks, Corey
  6. Do you happen to have a caps list for the electrolytics on video board and psu? BTW, The Lisa hasn’t been powered on in years. So I expect to treat it like it hasn’t been powered on since the 80’s. Cheers, Corey
  7. So I have a Lisa 2/10 that should arrive any day now. Since it's a 2/10 I don't have to worry about the battery leaking, but what do I need to check/change before I attempt the 1st power on? I know it's a good idea to replace the X2 safety caps in the power supply as I have heard they will generally go pop. Should I also replace all the electrolytic in the supply? Since it's a switching supply, I assume a Variac won't work. Should I check the voltages at the Widget drive power connector? I am going to assume the Widget is dead or near the end of it's life, so I ordered a CF Card replacement from vintagemicro. Thanks for any advice, Cheers, Corey
  8. I want to be able to send postscript from my Mac 128k to the serial port so it can be sent to an Postscript enabled HP Laser printer that doesn't have LocalTalk. Thanks, Corey
  9. Retrobrite Fail :(

    1000 grit wet sand paper is faster, then use the plastic polish for a final buff. Btw. On many heavily "used" keyboards the space bar naturally gets buffed in one spot, you can usually see it in bright lights like a museum uses to accent an artifact. Sometimes wet sanding is the only way to make it look even by to buffing the whole thing. If it winds up too shiny then you can simply use 2000 grit wet sand paper to make it not reflect by being careful in the pattern you sand. Another option is to use a spray matte finish clear. Cheers, Corey
  10. Doing a little history research, I'm going to need at least OS 2.1 or 3.x since my 1.1 disks predate the LaserWriter. I guess this will have to wait till I buy an SD card adapter so I can download newer software onto 3.5 floppies. Since I'm new to vintage Macs I only have a couple CFFA3000 adapters for my Apple II's and a SCSI adapter I use with my Kurzweil. I guess I can prove the idea out by using a modern Mac setup to print to a serial LaserWriter and a USB serial adapter.
  11. I found an Apple service manual and it is different than a standard RS232 even in RS232 mode. I will make a conversion cable to test this out tomorrow. Quick question about the driver. Is the postscript driver on the standard Mac OS 1.1 macwrite disk? Thanks, Corey
  12. So a regular 9 pin serial null modem cable will work?
  13. Ok, now the big question... Is the DB9 on the back of the Mac 128K for printer (and modem) a standard RS232? I don't think it is, so what kind of cable should I be looking for? If not is there a link to pin outs so I can make a cable?
  14. So I have a spare lantronix UDS 10 box that can send data from a serial port to an IP port. Do you think that could work?