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360alaska

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About 360alaska

  • Birthday 06/10/1991

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    Northeast Texas, US

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  1. Have you tried a video card with the 601? Since you get a chime it sounds to me like the onboard video might not be ppc compatible.
  2. Neat, yeah, it could also be bad cpu's that's why I suggest a load test with a head gun on low.
  3. I think somebody actually made one, you can search the forum.
  4. 360alaska

    How bad is the damage?

    Honestly? Not that bad, classic 1 boards are the only boards I've ever been able to fully resurrect. You need to disorder the battery holder and clean the junk. The other part of this, is that almost every Classic 1 has the Maxell Bomb. It seems that 1991 was the worst year for leaking Maxell batteries, and since most classic 1s were made in 1991 this is a real problem.
  5. 360alaska

    SE with no sound

    It says "miniphone", that is a mini-phone connector. Looks like pins 1 and 2 should be connected when headphones are not plugged in. If 2 and 3 are connected, then you're shorting you audio out to ground.
  6. 360alaska

    SE with no sound

    I've never seen a bad sound chip on a se, but I suppose it is possible that the speaker could short and take it out. A schematic for the sound portion of the SE board has not been released to the community as far as I know, here is the plus schematic:
  7. 360alaska

    SE with no sound

    Based on these symptoms I'd suggest swapping the ram. and also, be sure to properly configure the SE board using the resistors or the jumper. http://lowendmac.com/2016/memory-upgrades-mac-se/
  8. 360alaska

    Damaged ROM SIMM Socket on SE/30

    Yes, I can, although the dimensions of my "magic clip" have to be changed sometimes due to variations in the original socket between manufacturers. Magic Clip.stl
  9. 360alaska

    Damaged ROM SIMM Socket on SE/30

    Here it is, a picture is worth a thousand words, I have managed to dream up a little clip that will go over the rom simm and over the broken socket like a collar. I have already repaired a couple of logic boards with these clips.
  10. 360alaska

    Damaged ROM SIMM Socket on SE/30

    I have a 3d printed solution, I'll post about it here later today.
  11. 360alaska

    Macintosh Classic II Blues... :/

    The easiest way is to cut the problem in half, meaning, try another logic board. This is easy for me since I have 40 computers in my collection. In your case, you can buy another logic board, buy a classic I, or ask a member to test your board.
  12. 360alaska

    Macintosh Classic II Blues... :/

    It probably is a faulty logic board, if the display section of the analog were not working you'd probably at least get a chime as long as the voltages look good. Something to consider, is that some of the pads for these caps also serve to interconnect two vias or other components. I might suggest a pin check, pay special attention to C13, if you don't connect the two points on C13 it will never boot. Something else to keep in mind is that a CII board will boot without any of those large caps installed, audio will not work however, but it is good for troubleshooting. After that, you can check the reset signal, it comes from the audio chip, you should also ensure your buttons aren't stuck. Another thing to check is the connections at the ram ICs, leakage can corrode that connection there also. Basically, you have to pin check everything around the caps, U10 also looks suspect. Here is the schematics: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_Xp3uN-BcxsQjFLRUZqeEw2VFE?usp=sharing I think that the CII schematic is for a 4 rom version of the board but it should be pretty close.
  13. 360alaska

    Macintosh Classic II Blues... :/

    1. I can't say I've ever seen a broken connection there at the flyback anode, it is a fairly thin wire though, I'd give it a gentle tug and make sure it's attached. 2. If you have an o-scope you can check the pwm signal from the logic board. 3. If you are able to give an up close picture of the logic board I'll see if I can see anything. 4. Are you in the US? I can test that logic board for you with one of my spare chassis.
  14. 360alaska

    Macintosh Classic II Blues... :/

    As long as you did a good recap with quality parts and correct polarity, I suspect your logic board is at fault. More than likely electrolyte is still on the board and scrambling the PWM brightness signal to the analog board. When I started this hobby in 2014 I acquired 2 computers, a Mac Plus, and a Performa 200 (which is a Classic II). They both had checkerboards upon boot, I recapped them both, I cleaned the boards thoroughly and yet they still didn’t work. I checked voltages, I cleaned them again, de-soldered and installed new caps, still nothing. Well, finally I figured I had nothing to lose, so I placed the board in the dishwasher and dried it on my oven (200F) and it worked. The reality is that when these caps leak, sometimes the electrolyte leaks under the chips and without a high pressure wash you’re unlikely to get it working again. With that in mind here is what I would suggest: 1. Label and remove the Rom ICs. 2. Place the logic board in an empty dishwasher and run it on the pots and pans mode without soap. 3. Take it out and blow it out a little with compressed air. (paying special attention to the ports and rom sockets) 4. Place it on a piece of cardboard and place it in your over for 2 hours 200 degrees Fahrenheit 5. Reinsert the Rom ICs and try again. Also, if you’re wondering, for the plus I discovered it had a backwards rom IC.
  15. Yes and also they all should, there are other uses for that port.
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