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About Compgeke

  • Birthday 01/06/1997

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    Fairfield, California
  1. RE Clock: This is going to sound dumb, but have you checked the battery? If the battery is getting low it's going to drift.
  2. It may just be that the power lines or something aren't making contact so it's not even recognizing there's something in the slots. It's hard to tell without removing them to see what's going on. Unfortunately finding replacements can be a bit more difficult, I'm not sure if anyone still makes 30 pin simm connectors but asking around on marketplace here you should be able to find someone willing to suck a few out for you. It seems you're a bit worried about removing the slots though. If you want my advice, it's equipment upgrade time. Pick up a ZD915 or similar ~$100 desoldering gun and it'll make easy work of those. As long as you don't shove hard and scrape the tip on the board, or set it to something insane like 400*C, it's more difficult to do damage.
  3. SCSI2SD + Hard-Reset = No booting

    I've actually got a similar issue with my v5 board. If power is improperly removed, it corrupts the OS. When attempting to boot from it you'll get happy mac -> back to grey screen -> happy mac -> repeat. Doesn't matter if it's system 6 or system 7. Only real fix I had was to recopy the system folder over. Just booting from another device and coming back didn't fix it.
  4. If you've got a long enough cable you can. With a double connector cable and a molex splitter you could even do hard drive and cd off the internal connector, just can't mount the CD.
  5. iMac G3 (Rev A -> C) G4 CPU Upgrade

    The real issue with the IBMs is they have their own non-removable motherboard cache and as such don't like having it on the CPU. If I had a G3 ZIF without any cache it just might work. No idea on how they handle multiplier. They were offered in two different versions, a 233 MHz 604 and the 375 MHz one so they do support adjustable multiplier and bus. Probably resistors on the CPU card itself. Of course, there's almost no documentation on the IBMs.
  6. iMac G3 (Rev A -> C) G4 CPU Upgrade

    Worthy of note on the IBM computers with a ZIF: They're just a CPU card without any cache or anything. Good chance it's just the 60x bus directly on the pins from the CPU, possibly even in the same pinout as the BGA chip. If someone wants to grab one and desolder the chip, it'd be possible to cross reference the chip datasheet and the BGA pads to pins. A lot of work, but doable. I've attached the datasheet that has the pinout to this post. Another IBM note: they won't work with cards that have an onboard L2 cache like the Macs have. Trying a 450 MHz G3 CPU (PPC750L-EB0A450) in an RS/6000 43P-150 will throw an E24C "L2 cache array test fails." error. Knowing the pinout would be interesting as it may be possible to make a G3/G4 upgrade for the 43P-150 (and B50). Not that it'd be a worthwhile time investment, I doubt all 3 of us with such a system would be super interested. 604eBGA_Datasheet.pdf
  7. I'd go ahead and try finding another install image and see if it works instead. Sometimes the discs will mount but not boot. Sometimes they'll boot on one system but not another. Another alternative if you have a USB IDE adapter is to use sheepshaver (or emulator of choice) to install the OS onto an image the size of your 6200's hard drive then write it to the 6200's drive with DD or utility of choice. I've made use of that method a lot on systems with smaller hard drives. Being as you've got a Macbook this also has the advantage of making it really really easy to transfer software over without floppies or breaking resource forks.
  8. Do you have any other systems to try the CD with? Being a home burnt CD it's entirely possible the issue is with the CD rather than the system itself. It'd be worth tracking down another image (even if it's another version) and see if it works.
  9. Flashing a PB3112 SATA card

    Here's my method of doing it easily: There're a few other ways if you dig around the forums, although I had various levels of success using them. The Wiebetech ROM is easy to flash but it won't work under classic Mac OS. The Seritek ROM is a bit more difficult to flash but it'll work with everything.
  10. ^ That's the kind of situation with a GFCI (RCD) should've helped. The chassis on an ATX PSU is almost always directly grounded and the short to case would've tripped it over.
  11. Powerbases, L2 caches, and some chips.

    In that case, the cache dimms are compatible between all the PCI macs to the best of my knowledge. Trying to find a 1MB one is a bit difficult though, all the ones I've had were 256K or 512K.
  12. Powerbases, L2 caches, and some chips.

    Beware, good chance of magic smoke if you try this. It's very unlikely the pinout is the same between an IBM and a Mac.
  13. Connecting my 1400c to wireless network

    Is your wireless an 802.11b with WEP (or unsecured)? Unless it meets those requirements, you're going to run into issues. The Wavelan based cards don't support WPA, WPA2, Wireless G(N, etc) and only do WEP or no security. A good workaround for this is to go find a Linksys E1000 or something at a thrift store and throw DD-WRT on it. You can run it in access point only mode with shit security and set dd-wrt to disable the wireless radio when you hit the WPS button on the front. Far better solution than running an unsecured network 24/7. I've never actually had to go through and hand switch the cards. After installing the software (Orinico 7.something iirc) I was able to open the control panel for the card up, add the network and it'd create a profile and automagically change the IP and Appletalk settings. Before you can do that though, see the previous note about the cards not supporting anything resembling modern.
  14. Bridge Mac

    Late 90s PCI mac, any of them. Onboard features include serial ports, SCSI, 1.44 or 800K floppy, CD-ROM. Easy to throw in USB or ethernet card and if you want to hot rod the things, G3/G4 upgrades for something like an 8600 are relatively cheap and common.
  15. 50pin to 68pin SCSI adapter

    Any generic passive adapter will probably work, providing the drive will run in 8-bit mode. I personally use ones like https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monoprice-76-SCSI-HPDB-68-Female-to-IDC-50-Female-Adapter/371310538092 however you'll need to look around for ones that ship to your country. I've tried the PCB design ones and while they do work, they can be a bit tall and don't have confidence inspiring stability. I usually prefer these and a terminated 68 pin cable as that handles the whole termination problem and usually comes out cheaper than a device-side adapter + inline 50 pin terminator (since some drives don't like CD termination and such). If you only want to try out an adapter for the hard drive alone, https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-pin-to-50-pin-scsi-adapter-hard-drive/302588084209 would do the trick. Probably cheaper than converting everything in the system to run off 68 pin cabling anyway.