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Posts posted by Speedy

  1. 7 hours ago, olePigeon said:

    Could you run a patch wire and permanently ground Pin 24?  Or would that mess it up somehow?

    I tried that by attaching a patch wire between Pin 24 and the ground pin, and the CRTL was stuck on while the wire was on. Desoldered it from ground, and the CRTL key wasn't stuck anymore... only for it to go back a few seconds later. It seems like it's totally random if it works for a moment or not.

  2. Well, I tried to use it again today and it's holding the CRTL key again, but this time it's weirder.  After about 5 seconds of it being plugged in, the key will start to jitter on and off and eventually settle on being on. Now, if you ground Pin 24 (P23, I/O Port 2) the problem will be fixed for an indeterminate amount of time, but it eventually comes back. I'm starting to think the microcontroller is really the culprit here, but I don't have any easy way of replacing it. I think for now I'm just gonna shelve the keyboard until I can buy a replacement chip from Toshiba.

  3. I thought that maybe something was wrong with the microcontroller, so I started poking around it with my multimeter to see if the pin out for its NEC 80C49 (AEK1 controller) and the Toshiba 80C49 (AEK2 controller) were the same so I could do a replacement, and... the problem went away. I think I checked Pin 20 and 40 (Ground and 5V respectively), and then pin 27, and the problem just disappeared. I tried pressing every key and none of them stuck anymore, although I think left control might be dead. I rarely use that key on Macs however, and even if I built a Teensy ADB > USB adapter so I could use it on my main Windows 7 rig, I could probably live without the left CRTL key. So... problem solved I guess.

  4. I'd go with what Rickrob said - $10 for a full set of capacitors is a good price.

    I didn't know about that when recapping my LC II though, so what I did was I went on Mouser and bought high quality low ESR caps from Nichicon that matched the exact values of the original caps. That's worked well for me, but the shipping costs for tiny orders like mine do really suck and don't make a lot of sense.

  5. I hadn't really put much thought into the corrosion because I didn't see any obvious corroded or damaged traces, just damage to the very outside of the board. If I need to repair traces, what would you say is the best way to go about that? It's a bit out of my area of expertise since I've never had to do that before.

  6. Got the G3. Very cool machine, but unfortunately I've figured out that the AEK is at fault. When I initially plugged the keyboard into my G3 though it didn't instantly turn the Control keys on, it only happened after pressing Scroll Lock. I'm going to see if I can figure out what conditions the Control key turns on under.

  7. I couldn't figure out how to take the switches out after desoldering, but I did get both of them desoldered and I took them completely apart and prevented them from making any contact with the logic board. After unplugging and plugging the keyboard back in a few times, the Control key eventually released, but upon pressing a totally different key (shift in my case) they went back to being enabled. I'm really starting to wonder where the issue could possibly lie with this thing.


    I just sent the guy with the PowerMac G3 an e-mail; hopefully I can pick that up and use it to test my AEK, and use its keyboard (an AppleDesign Keyboard) on my LC II to see if it's a problem with that machine.

  8. I just poked around again and I can't find anything that could be wrong. Just for curiosities sake, I tried booting the LC II with only the mouse connected and going into KeyCaps, and neither Control key showed up as activated. As soon as I put the AEK in though, they showed up as being pressed down.

    Also, I should mention, I don't know if both keys are being pressed down or just one of them. Pressing just one of the modifier keys (Crtl, Command, and Option) makes both of them show up as activated in KeyCaps. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble trying to diagnose something :/

  9. Just took apart the other Control key cap, no luck with that either. I don't know what part on the keyboard is causing an issue, if it even a part on the keyboard. I might pick up a PowerMac G3 Biege soon that comes with an AppleDesign Keyboard, so if I get that then I'll try it with my LC II too see if it's a problem with the PC or the keyboard, but I'm really at a loss here. :sad:

  10. I don't know if this exactly goes into peripherals since I'm not 100% sure the AEK is the cause of the problem here but I dunno where else to put it. I finally got my LC II up and running with the aide of a SCSI2SD, and it's working great! Except for text entry fields. Everytime I type something on the keyboard, I just get gibberish. The weird thing is that the keys themselves seem to recognize okay; I booted up Wolfenstein 3D and I was able to rebind the controls just fine (except for the CRTL key, neither of those will recognize?). Number keys & the numpad numbers work fine as well. I've tried this in a few programs and they all exhibit the same issue. Any advice?


    Here's a video of the problem:



    I have it taken apart since I was cleaning it; it was stored poorly by the previous owner and was really dirty on the inside. The very outer sides of the circuit board look like they got corroded by something but all of the traces and solder joints are fine.

  11. Well, I tried some things.


    Disconnecting the HDD didn't make it boot any faster, but it did boot without it.


    I tried opening it since I thought the cause of death might have been sticky rubber, but as it turns out the cause of death is even weirder: shattered glass?




    It was originally jamming up the drive in a weird spot, but I managed to get it out. The drive spins and the head moves, but it stops after a few seconds and just stays in place after it gets to the broken spot. Uh... any suggestions? :undecided:


    EDIT: just learned that was the optical encoder... I tried gluing it on but that didn't work, thankfully I was able to get the piece off easily if anyone has any other suggestions. If not I think I'll just save up for an SD2SCSI.

  12. Hi Mos,


    I recapped the PSU - was actually the first thing I did.


    I'll disconnect the HDD tomorrow. I did try a floppy boot a moment ago - the system recognizes floppies and will try to boot from them. Unfortunately all my floppies and floppy drives are acting up so I wasn't able to write a really usable disc (it'd crash when loading, totally doesn't have anything to do with half of the disc failing to write). I might order a USB Floppy Drive and some new 1.44mb discs tomorrow to see if I can write a working boot disc.

  13. Hey all,


    I found out about this site when trying to figure out how to repair an LC II. I recently got one for free off of Craigslist - it was really dirty and didn't boot. I ended up recapping the entire system, which now made it finally start but there's two quirks.


    1: The system takes a long time to start. It has to be left on for about 10 minutes, and eventually it'll give the boot up Chime and display an image.

    2: When the system does display, it boots up to the flashing question mark screen even though I can hear the hard drive running.


    I read this apparently means the hard drive is dead - is there any way I can verify this? And if it is dead, what are my options for replacements? I've looked into SD2SCSI but $60 is a little more than I'd like to spend. I can't find an (affordable) CF2SCSI solution either.


    Thanks in advance