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JDW

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Everything posted by JDW

  1. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  2. @pb3623, please consider making us a short video (shot in daylight so we can clearly see everything well), showing us precisely what you are doing when you take that voltage measurement. You could upload that video to YouTube as an UNLISTED video and then post the link here.
  3. Thanks for watching and for your comment. The product photo on that Mouser page is wrong. Note the Description correctly says "Pin & Socket Connectors 4P HEADER." Also, when you open the datasheet, it too shows the wrong drawing in the upper right corner, but all the data is accurate. And from within that datasheet there is a link to this drawing. And if you go back to the main product page on Mouser, it shows you in the Specifications section that there are "4 Positions." Trust me. That product on Mouser is 100% correct. Molex are just lazy bozos for not putting the proper pictures where they need to go, although Mouser could have fixed that had they lifted a finger. But I have seen this before on other products. Not everyone has an eye for detail like you and I, sadly. Since you noticed this, I will update the YouTube text description to note what I have just said. Thanks!
  4. The 60mm Silenx in my SE/30 is rating at 18CFM. I have been told that's the same CFM as the stock fan, but when I hold my hand up to the stock fan and compare with the Silenx, it seems the Silenx moves a bit less air. So either my Silenx fan isn't putting out 18CFM, or the stock SE/30 fan is actually rated higher than 18CFM. 18CFM isn't really pumping out a lot of air, so I wouldn't advise any lower CFM rating for a fan replacement.
  5. I will profess to being an EE, but I also will admit we are certainly not know-it-alls (although many EE's try to act like it). Electrical Engineering is a broad field, so many of us are highly focused in certain areas. I focused on analog communications in college but ended up working more in digital (embedded MCUs, programmed in assembly language). Even so, I am not an expert on repairing all problems in vintage Macs, which is often why I have posted here through the years to obtain sound advice from those more savvy than myself in those areas (e.g., TechKnight, etc.). I have zero experience with a TAM. As such, I can only comment on what I read in this thread. First, you said you are guessing the stock fan draws 600 to 900mA. That is crazy high, I think, in light of the fact many stock SE/30 fans are 55mA or so (and even say that on the fan label). My SE/30's replacement IXP-34-16 SILENX fan's specifications say it draws only 28mA. Even in a worst case scenario for a 60mm boxer fan, I wouldn't see one drawing more than 150mA tops. With that in mind, I am pondering what you said about the fan pulling down the 12V rail to 1V. You said removing the fan allows the 12V rail to rise to 12V. I would say that indicates a problem with the fan. Cutting both wires of the fan and powering it from a 12V source (battery or power supply) and then doing voltage and current measurements would be very enlightening. If the fan itself is bad (and it seems like it is), swapping out for a new fan should fix the problem. If you know the CFM rating of the stock fan, that can guide you when choosing a suitable replacement.
  6. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  7. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    That's how I have my SEASONIC wired. When the mechanical switch is flipped OFF, the PSU is 100% OFF and has no possibility of ever going ON. I didn't think anything negative about doing it that way since that is basically how the stock PSU works.
  8. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    @Crutch Did you measure voltage levels (specifically, the 5V line) at the Floppy connector and at your internal HDD power connector when you had your Turbo040 inside? I ask because in my experience, prior to my epic blunder which caused my Turbo040 to stop working, I would only get freezes with the Turbo040 when there were software incompatibles. That's a lot of software that just locks up with an 040 but which works fine with an 030 processor.
  9. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    When mulling PSU options for the SE and SE/30, bear in mind the stock PSU is fanless, while the SEASONIC has a fan. It's not too loud and certainly not something you'd notice if you have a spinning platter HDD inside. But if you have a SCSI2SD inside and a quiet replacement for the ELINA stock case fan, your machine would then be quiet enough to where you would hear the SEASONIC fan when it kicks on. People with no PDS cards or only one would get by with a SONY PSU recap (assuming there are no other problems other than bad caps), and you would get a perfectly quiet PSU too.
  10. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Thank you for the details. So your original Sony PSU which had the jitters was indeed recapped, it seems. OK. I still am curious as to the root cause of the jitters, so if you could PM me with the name of the member who took that PSU from you, I will PM them and ask what their testing revealed. I'm very curious! Recapping always carries the risk that after the job is done and done well, something else on the PCB could be a problem that wasn't detectable prior to the recap. However, the Sony PSU's tend to be built very well, so I would say it's highly unlikely a recap of a second Sony PSU would result in similar problems. Even so, if you are worried about that possibility, however rare it would be, then your best recourse would be to purchase the SEASONIC and follow my video on that.
  11. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    You say you have a Sony, which implies "Sony PSU," and then you mentioned your "recapped PSU." So you have a PSU other than your SONY PSU that someone recapped for you? Was that an Astec PSU? And that was the PSU you mentioned had a "bad transistor"? If that other failed PSU is an Astec, they do "bite the dust" and I would recommend swapping it for a Sony version. But if your failed PSU was a Sony, it may be worthwhile to replace the bad transistor, assuming you know which one it is and assuming your are absolutely sure that one transistor is the root problem. Your light use case warrants only a recapped Sony PSU. The Sony will more than suffice. You really don't need the SEASONIC in your application. But of course, if you had a SEASONIC PSU, it would serve you well too. Which PSU requires the most work is something you must decide after watching my SEASONIC video and SONY PSU recap video. Both take time and thought. There's less soldering overall with the SEASONIC, but I would suspect most of the SONY PSU's out there merely need recaps, and it's kind of a waste to trash them, sell them for parts or merely throw them in a closet. True, but there are dangers even when working with the SEASONIC. There are dangers even opening the back case! How much of a danger depends on the person opening the back of the case and tinkering inside. No doubt there are some people who would wait until a rainy day to take their SE/30 outside, plug it in, then open the back case and start tinkering, but I suspect those types are few. Even so, I agree that some people COULD accidentally shock themselves, especially in countries that use higher mains voltages. More likely, an inexperienced tinkerer would just end up frying a board due to an epic blunder. Goodness knows I've done that, and even recently no less! Ah... my poor 40MHz Daystar Turbo 040! You do need to discharge the CRT for safety whenever working inside the case. People who forget that are not necessarily in danger of their life because the bleeder resistor will usually drain the CRT pretty fast and those resistors aren't failing left and right either. Also, most vintage computer owners know not to touch the back of the CRT yoke (where all those scary copper wires are). So the end result is we don't hear about a lot of people getting shocked when working in these machines. I think it would be fun to poll our 68kMLA members to see if anyone has even been shocked. You need to be careful, but it's not quite as scary as some make it out to be. I personally do TRIPLE-CHECKS when I recap anything, and that is especially true of the PSU. You do NOT want to solder in even one cap with the polarity reversed. You most likely won't die, but the bigger the cap the bigger the explosion when the cap vents through its top. The cap itself might even fly off the PCB like a rocket -- I've seen that. For those of you who are very worried, I would recommend eye protection. Eye-glasses are OK, but I'm talking about the polycarbonate kind that you would wear when using a spinning string cutter outdoors to protect your eyes from flying debris. And I personally would not test a PSU on mains voltages that don't have a known-good breaker. These recapping and PSU-replacement projects aren't for everyone, but it's a fact that most people are too frightened to try something new. I don't want to push a scared person too close to a cliff, but at the same time, some of us do need a little prodding to get started with something that could benefit us down the line. Yes, there are dangers, and one must be very cautious, but with care, patience, thought, a slow pace, and a detailed guide, I believe that many of our members could do these jobs if they set their mind to it. That is why I made those YouTube videos, to give people a little assistance and show them what's involved every step of the way.
  12. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I wanted to wait a day after seeing your post to see if anyone would step up to the plate. Since no one has, I will say a few words. You did say "in the US" which is why I cannot do the job for you (it really would be cost prohibitive in light of 2-way international shipping), seeing I am in Japan. But actually I can help YOU do the job to either recap your SONY PSU (hopefully you have a SONY not Astec) or install the SEASONIC in your PSU chassis. I have YouTube videos on both which are detailed enough for anyone to follow, even people without a lot of soldering experience. Gaining experience with the PSU is a good idea because it can help you debug and possibly fix other issues which may crop up in the future. I'm working on an Analog Board (for SE and SE/30) recap video right now. I do this in my free time (and I make no money on YouTube either), so it may still be another few weeks before I can finish it. Best wishes to you, Johnny!
  13. JDW

    Capacitor list for SE/30 analog board

    Yes, Apple has commonly used a Sharpie pen to mark the board revision on various analog and power supply boards in vintage compact Macs, so that is nothing to be concerned about. For example, the following is one of the photos in my Flickr collection of a Mac 128k/512k analog board with a Sharpie-written board revision letter: Whether you order from Digi-Key or from Mouser, you need to consider the cost of shipping. I think it’s best to buy all the caps you need from either of those vendors so that the cost of shipping is less painful. I used Mouser (see the Mouser cap list in my earlier post in this thread) and had them ship to my address in Japan. I bought three of each of those capacitors so I could recap multiple boards. Mouser lets you assign notes to each capacitor you put in your cart, and those notes are printed on a white label affixed to the plastic bags containing the capacitors. So in other words, if you type in “C15“ on your replacement 3.9 µF capacitor in your Mouser cart, that “C15“ marking will appear on the label affixed to the bag containing the capacitor and make it easier for you to know which capacitors are which when you get them. The capacitors should be the same across the board revisions. But you should pull your analog board and check what the stock values are to be 100% sure. If you notice any significant differences as compared to the capacitor lists I provided in my earlier post, please report those differences in a new post in this thread. I have recapped one analog board so far with the “Mouser“ list of caps in my earlier post and I didn’t have a problem with any of them, not even C15. They all fit just fine and were the right values. I plan to make another YouTube video soon about the recapping of the analog board, and it just so happens that I plan to replace the flyback transformer on the analog board I will use in that video too. However, it may be a few weeks before that video is complete. Even so, the capacitor lists in my earlier post are still valid and should serve you well.
  14. JDW

    Capacitor list for SE/30 analog board

    I own a copy of "Mac Classic & SE Repair and Upgrade Secrets" by Larry Pina. Chapter 2 is "SE Analog Board Repairs" and says the following: Three SE Analog Boards Few people realize it, but any SE can be equipped with one of three different analog boards: Revision A P/N 820-0206-A 630-0147 1986 Apple Computer (Korea) Revision B P/N 820-0206-B 630-0147 1986, 87 Apple Computer (Singapore) Revision C P/N 820-0206-C 630-0147 1986, 87, 88 Apple Computer (Singapore) It doesn't matter whether you have an original SE, a late-model SE FDHD, or an SE/30. Due to the official board-swap policy, any one of the three analog boards might be installed. To find out which board you're dealing with (A, B, or C), you have to open the computer and check for model identification. All three boards are marked along the top left edge. Because this area is normally hidden by the chassis, you may have to remote the analog board to read the revision letter.
  15. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  16. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in that thread. I make videos for the enjoyment of it and as a way to give back to the community. I currently don't allow ADs on my videos nor do I have a Patreon account, which is why I've never earned any monetary compensation at all from my videos. (The down side of that is Google doesn't suggest my videos as well as videos with ADs enabled.) I make videos that I really wish someone else had made for me. Even though what you see in my videos isn't necessarily groundbreaking or unique (some of you are far beyond me in terms of troubleshooting knowledge, repairs and mods, for example), I simply am transforming into an easy-to-digest video what otherwise has been exclusively found in "text form" in forums like this. For the new generation of younger people who don't prefer to read, videos are becoming increasingly important. (Even so, I still get Millennials complain my videos are too long, so we can't please everyone. I prefer to be thorough rather than worry about the clock though.) My next video endeavor will be to show the recapping of an SE/30 analog board, and then I will have yet another video showing the recapping of the SONY PSU. Anyway, I hope this information is useful not only for you DiiMO owners but also for those of you who need to recap 5V voltage rails, as the Niobium Oxide caps I chose work perfectly for that, assuming you need 22uF. They come in other sizes though so give them due consideration in your recapping jobs.
  17. @Crutch Thank you for your kind words. I highly recommend these Niobium Oxide capacitors for a DiiMO recap. I spent a considerable amount of time researching the best caps, and for reasons stated in my video I decided to restrict my consideration to only caps with solid electrolytes which won't leak or dry out over time. Some may argue that you can get an ESR of much less than the rated max of 0.7-ohm@100kHz (I measured 0.22-ohm@100Khz) if you use ceramic caps, but sadly there's capacitance drop with applied voltage on all ceramic caps other than NP0(C0G), and NP0 don't come in large sizes like 22uF. The best non-NP0 ceramic caps are X7R's, but even they have a voltage derating because as voltage applied across the capacitor increases, the capacitance drops sharply. And it's not a simply matter of just choosing a very high voltage rating for the ceramic cap because case size increases according to voltage rating. Consider the following Taiyo Yuden X7R capacitor rated at a substantial 25V and note that even it's capacitance drops by about 25% once the voltage applied across the capacitor reaches a mere 5V: So if you want an X7R ceramic cap that assures you of a full 22uF capacitance at the nominal 5V voltage level of the DiiMO, you'll need a 50V rated X7R ceramic, but such are physically too large to fit the PCB pads on the DiiMO! Even if they could fit, the cheapest of those 50V 22uF ceramics costs $3.62 each in quantities of less than 10pcs from Mouser! Yet another disadvantage to X7R and lower grade ceramic caps is that their physical size changes as voltage rises and falls causing them to shake the PCB such that you can actually hear a whine from them, especially when they are used with switching power supplies. Such is probably not an issue on the DiiMO but it is something you have to consider in any design where you consider using ceramics and switching power. And while the ceramics with little metal feet attached are built specifically to attenuate that piezoelectric audible effect, such caps come with a high monetary cost and with increased physical capacitor size as well. Ceramic capacitors would have the small (and perhaps even imperceivable) "benefit" of an ESR possibly as low as 0.005 ohms; but again, for reasons already stated, ceramic capacitors are not always a feasible solution, and excellent NP0 (C0G) type capacitors rated at 6.3V or higher only come in small capacitance sizes of pF and nF. At the end of the day, Niobium Oxide on the DiiMO are better than tantalum, better than ceramics, fit the PCB perfectly, have much lower ESR than the stock electrolytic capacitors even when they were brand new, are fairly low cost, and are easily purchasable from vendors like Mouser. In summary, you won't go wrong using the exact caps shown in my video.
  18. My camera is a Panasonic GH5 (great for stills and video). Lens is an Olympus 12-100mm F4, which is a very sharp and rather price "Pro" lens. I shot in the GH5's HLG profile (to get the maximum dynamic range) and used the Leeming HLG LUT v5.02 to convert Rec.2020 footage to Rec.709 and edited in FCPX. I added a bit of sharpening in FCPX using a free Unsharp Mask plugin. Mic used in my SEASONIC video was a SONY PCM-D100 stereo recorder using its built-in mics. My DiiMO recap video used a cheap wired LAV mic called the Purple Panda (sold on Amazon). The LAV pics up a buzz from the fluorescent room lighting, so I need to use my iZotope dialog denoiser plugin in FCPX to eradicate it.
  19. Exactly. I hope my videos can inspire others among us (those who have a decent video camera, of course) to share their own experiences on YouTube. It's a lot of trouble compared to just recapping or repair something without being filmed, but I think it's worth it because the video will benefit a lot of people and last as long as YouTube does, which hopefully will be a very long time to come. Just imagine what we all would be doing (or NOT be doing) with our vintage Mac hobby if Gamba and this excellent forum didn't exist. So I think of videos as being equally important moving forward.
  20. @CC_333 Thank you for your <opinion></opinion> and for your kind words of encouragement. YouTube comments under my videos aren't always positive and upbeat like yours though. One of the most recent on my iMac video card bake walkthrough said this (I copied and pasted it just now): dude ,shorten up your videos , mostly your womenish talking, for God's sake A lot of folks watch YouTube strictly for entertainment, 4 minutes a pop. I know this by watching my 15-year-old daughter watch YouTube. She even skims through 4 minute videos!!! But such does not deter me in light of the fact most 15-year-old girls aren't setting out to recap vintage Mac hardware. More to come. And hopefully one day I can make a video showing how, with the help of this forum, I resurrected my poor DayStar Turbo 040.
  21. Friends, my heart is in the depths of despair at the moment. I was swapping multiple PDS cards in and out of my SE/30 today at a rapid pace and made an epic blunder. I say "epic" because in all my years of using these Macs I've never done something so thoughtless and stupid. I have a TwinSpark TS Adapter (click for photos) from ARTMIX Japan which allows use of various accelerators in the SE/30. My epic blunder was that I accidentally inserted my 40MHz 68040 Daystar Accelerator card into the "PDS" passthrough connector at the top of the TS Adapter, rather than insert it into the "Cache" connect on the side of the adapter. When I switched power ON the switching power supply (SEASONIC) started to bring up power but then immediately shut everything down. The screen didn't even partially come on, the shutdown was so quick, and even the SE/30's fan jiggled a tad but didn't spin. It was at that point I realized my stupidity. Wrong Connector!!! I switched off the power. I then removed the adapter and accelerator and switched power on, but nothing. I then waited 5 minutes and tried again (nothing in the PDS slot) and then the SE/30 made a bong and booted, to me great relief. So I guess there is a PTC or similar fuse inside the PSU that takes time to cool down. The SE/30 now boots fine and recognizes my MacCon Ethernet PDS card and DiiMO PDS accelerator, but when I put the TS adapter & Daystar accelerator (this time properly inserted into the Cache slot on the adapter), I get the chimes of death and horizontal lines. Removing those 2 boards makes the Mac happy again. So either the TS Adapter is now bad or accelerator or both. I feel like a complete idiot. There was no smoke or bad smells. Nothing is noticeably burned on the TS Adapter or Daystar card and I did a very detailed visual inspection with a closeup lens. The TS Adapter does have a socketed GAL16V8D chip, so I am curious if that chip could now be bad, the mere replacing of which would resurrect the board into working condition again. I don't have a spare GAL to check, however. All said, those of you who have an adapter (TwinSpark or similar PDS adapter card) and compatible accelerator, have you ever accidentally connected your accelerator into the PDS slot at top instead of properly connecting it into the Cache slot? Probably not, but I wanted to throw the question out there to find out. Perhaps someone else has gone through this pain and subsequent troubleshooting before. Any troubleshooting suggestions you kind souls could kindly share would be greatly appreciated. (I feel absolutely awful.)
  22. JDW

    SE/30 PDS Adapter Epic Blunder

    Wow. Thank you for your kindness, @Paralel! Here's the WIKI on Daystar Digital: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DayStar_Digital If schematics could be found and then legally made available to the vintage Mac community, that would be simply outstanding!
  23. JDW

    SE/30 PDS Adapter Epic Blunder

    @joethezombie Thank you for taking time to investigate and provide excellent ideas and extensive advice! I measure (4-wire cable, Fluke 8845A) 105.1k-ohms between each of the 6 blue capacitors (i.e., between +5V and GND) on the ARTMIX TS Adapter (see photo below), so there are no shorts there. However, I have no way to functionally test the TS Adapter using another accelerator inserted in its Cache Connector because I purchased the TS Adapter for exclusive use with my Daystar Turbo 040 accelerator. I have no other accelerators that need an adapter for the SE/30 to test in the TS Adapter, unfortunately.
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