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QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  13:12:32
I spent 2 weekends in a row fixing plumbing. You all know about my corrosive water and how it eats copper, get this- the original 1961 plumbing is copper

My 260 lb body barely fits in the crawlspace; after squeezing through 50 feet of that hell, I found 5 leaks that were dripping profusely. After 12 hours in that tiny crawlspace, 70 ft of PVC pipe, 3 compression fittings, 100 ft of pipe insulation, and breathing toxic pipe dope fumes that made me disoriented, everything is finally back to normal.


Oh, and my 12" AlBook finally shipped friday

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Da Penguin
Senior Member


USA
1094 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  15:42:30
Yeah, I have an old house too. However, tahnkfully, my water isn't corrosive, so the copper piping froma round the 50s (only in some areas) works fine. However the wiring that still uses porcelain insulators at spots....eh...not so good.

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Clinton
Full Member


USA
700 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  16:10:43
woohoo! KNOB AND TUBE, W00T!!!

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  17:07:10
Eek...scary stuff.

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  18:00:10
manufactured all the way!!!

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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  18:47:36
Heh - I'd like to see the water try and eat PVC! Take that! Glad to see all is back up and running.

I can relate. Our pipes in this house are almost all galvanized. You don't need corrosive water to eat that stuff, any will do. I'd replace them, but we're selling and I'm hoping for the best.

Then there was the well that went out early this spring. At first it only had a clogged screen, but that was just the beginning. It was a 2" well. If you could imagine working with just 2" all the way down. After you get the pump off, there's all that drop pipe which has the ejector and foot valve on the end which is going to rub, another check valve below that which is going to rub, and then you can pull up the screen which is probably going to rub. Well, that was just too much for the rusty old casing. On top of that, the screen was stainless and they could've just cleaned it by pouring muriatic acid down the well. Who knew?

Needless to say, we now have a new 5" well which is all PVC and works great. Luckily it's my grandma's house, so she payed for it.Go to Top of Page

cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  19:43:40
LOL, don't you just lvoe the grandparents?

out here, we have to haul our water to dual 2500 gallon water tanks, and we have a pumphouse (all new stuff to me) and a septic system (nothing new there...)

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QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  19:44:08
lol, a 2" well?! ours is like 12-14", but only 35 feet deep. A small child could easily fall in there and get stuck. And yeah, submersible pumps can really be a pain, that's why we just went with a 3/4hp Goulds jet pump. The foot valve rusted off a long time ago, so I intalled an inline check by the pump (making it a little fun to prime) The quick connect in the well is corroded together like everything else, so replacing the foot valve or putting in a submersible is out of the question.

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q950
Junior Member


USA
135 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  19:44:08
That galvanized stuff sucks, we had some of that stuff in our old house in Wichita, we had to take some out for a sprinkler system, it wasn't rusted through, but the galvanizing made it so all the minerals in the water would collect on the inside of the pipes and it was practically a pinhole through the pipe segment we took out. Looked like a person's artery right before they had a heart attack. The water pressure at the street was good, but in the house you couldnt wash dishes and shower at the same time. We had some knob and tube, but we took most of it out so it wasnt a problem.

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  21:34:39
quote:

LOL, don't you just lvoe the grandparents?

"Whats a cable?" - My grandmother pretending to listen to my answer to a question she asked about my PB1400. (Yes, i'm serious folks, there really are people this stupid in Australia)

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  21:45:59
in that case; carries electrical signals that the computer uses 1) to run 2) to communicate 3) to work.

1) power
2) network
3) just about any other cable

other than that, most of the pipes outside of our house are PVC... not sure about the ones inside this house though

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Unknown_K
Full Member


USA
602 Posts
Posted - 05 Oct 2003 :  23:40:21
Copper pipes are pretty good, they do not corrode and dont shatter in extreme cold like pvc will. The solvents that join PVC pipe (and the pipe itself) leach of chemicals that enter the water. Galvanized steel is ultimate shit for water storage because just 1 scratch or a funk bend in the pipe with high water velocity will take the tin away exposing steel to the water (and it will rust like crazy). If you need a water tand get a HDPE one(high density poly ethylene)last forever. If you using well water I hope you have a good filter, carbon bed , and maybe even a UV sanitiser inline. With all the crap that get dumped these days I wouldt drink from a well. The house I have been living in for 30 years was built in the 20's copper pipe all over (never had problems with it) but the water quality is good here.

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QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  02:56:15
oh yes...DO corrode, when your water kinda has hydrogen sulfide in it...which seems to have the same corrosive properities as sulfuric acid. That, and any municipal water supply around here definitely has worse chemicals in it than the MEK from PVC cement. A carbon bed would be poisoned in a week, a filter would clog with sand in a couple weeks, and none of us worry about the bacteria.

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  03:08:07
Frankly, 'Jets, I don't know why your council can't get off its fat @$$ and fix your town water.

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Stryder
Junior Member


USA
382 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  03:22:42
I've been there too. My house was built back in 1850 and had all galvy pipes throughout when I first bought the place. I ended up ripping all of it out and went with pvc most of the way through two floors with the exception of the hot-water heater where I sweated in the copper. Also replaced all that wonderful tube-and-knob wiring throughout as well. That was not a fun project, but essencial. I can't fathom how they could have been running a six-bedroom house on four circuit breakers up to that point. I added so many new breakers to seperate the rooms, I had to add another box!

Yep, "Old Houses" are a lot of fun.

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  06:37:02
WaterHaul™ could be your saviour 'jets, you get clean water, and lots of it for not that much money

because sulfate hydroxycut or whatever you called it could probably eat through just about anything (XBOX vs. sulfide hydrolysis anyone?)

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  06:40:14
He's already almost lost his 840AV to it...

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  10:15:08
I thought that it was drunken college students that he lost his 840 to?

maybe he liberated it from them, and now has watered it?

I remember though, when he got the XBOX and PS2 and they were all borkified what with the glayvens and the water...

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  15:09:38
quote:

I thought that it was drunken college students that he lost his 840 to?

Nope. The motherboard was corroded from the water and crap.

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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  16:41:44
quote:
I added so many new breakers to seperate the rooms, I had to add another box!

Well they probably weren't running server farms (Apple Orchards™)
quote:
Nope. The motherboard was corroded from the water and crap.

Hmm. An experiment with water cooling?Go to Top of Page
maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  16:51:43
Nope. He just has a crappy water supply with evil stuff in it.

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Unknown_K
Full Member


USA
602 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  16:53:15
PVC and hot water dont get along together (the pipe will shrink over a period of time and leak.

Oh and MEK is very dangerous, go read the msds sheets

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QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  16:56:15
no water cooling on my 840, just HS gas relased from the water...even the gas is corrosive. Stuff does not have to have direct contact with the water for corrosion. my p4 peecee is water cooled, but it uses glycol.

and on the subject of electrical crap, my parents are having a new 200 amp breaker box installed, and I have PAF approved dibs on 2 spaces for a 60 amp breaker box in the garage for my air compressor, welder, and server/seti farm

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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  16:59:02
quote:
The solvents that join PVC pipe (and the pipe itself) leach of chemicals that enter the water.

Only for a while. They'll wash out eventually.
quote:
If you need a water tand get a HDPE one(high density poly ethylene)last forever.

They make pressure tanks out of HDPE? Or is it a storage tank you're talking about?
quote:
lol, a 2" well?!

Yep.
quote:
ours is like 12-14", but only 35 feet deep. A small child could easily fall in there and get stuck.

That's awful big. I wonder how much that sucker was to drill. Good luck getting a replacement screen.
quote:
And yeah, submersible pumps can really be a pain, that's why we just went with a 3/4hp Goulds jet pump.

Good choice. The more plastic the better.
quote:
The foot valve rusted off a long time ago, so I intalled an inline check by the pump (making it a little fun to prime)

That's interesting. Is that a shallow well pump? If the water level drops below 25 feet it won't pump, though, but you probably knew that already.
quote:
The quick connect in the well is corroded together

You mean the pitless adapter? Is it the kind where you put a like 5' long T-bar tool down the well and unscrew a bolt to release it or is it something else? You know this well stuff is like Macs. It fascinates me to no end.

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QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  17:37:08
Yep, its a shallow well pump. The connector is sort of a slip connection, with an O ring. but it is rusted together because it has never been apart since the well was connected back in '61. We do have some trouble with flow rates, because yeah, the screen is probably getting clogged. The goulds pump does not have any plastic on it, the pump housing is powder coated cast iron, it isn't going anywhere, and it has an AO Smith ball bearing motor. The last Goulds pump we had lasted 20 years, when the motor finally failed (when I was in the shower, of course...),it was just bad bearings. I could have just pressed new ones on, but I figured 20 years was pretty good for a pump

And yeah, a HDPE pressure bladder tank? Never seen one. Our 20 gallon steel WellXtrol works great, even though it is probably being eaten alive.

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Clinton
Full Member


USA
700 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  18:45:09
ah, wells.

the most fun thing about supplying water.

I was sort of lucky when I live(d) (still live there on and off) in canada. We bought a summer cabin, and added on, and added on, and added on, till it could not be added onto any more. now its just an odd place. When we moved in there, we had to take a farm jack and lift the sinking corner of the house, and put blocks there so it would not sink further.

as for the piping, I have spent many a fun time in the crawlspace installing plumbing in that place when we built the bathroom upstairs. sweated many a mile of copper, and got stoned off of many a fume of ABS cement.

for our well, we have one somewhere between 36" and 48" wide, and thirtyfive feet deep. it runs dry in the summer, so we'd have to fill up a septic tank on the back of a pickup, and siphon the sucker into the well..

we use sump pumps because they are so much less of a hassle than the outside the well pumps. we do not have to worry about screens, so life is wonderful.

wouldnt pouring muriatic acid down the well make it undrinkable for a period of time, and eat the rest of the pump?

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 06 Oct 2003 :  18:56:11
filling up a septic tank with water to drink.... :eew: you probably mean a water tank?

we have our water brought to us for water-haul.

'jets, you should get a basic solution, and pour it into your very acidic water. (or was your water a base?)

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Stryder
Junior Member


USA
382 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  04:41:40
quote:

quote:
I added so many new breakers to seperate the rooms, I had to add another box!

Well they probably weren't running server farms (Apple Orchards™)


Lol, very true. It also helped for when we set up the band equipment in the attic to create a studio.

BTW Cory, a septic tank is only gross by what it's filled with. A new, clean one would be perfect to transport water in.

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maclover5
LC Doctor/Hot Rodder


Australia
5830 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  05:00:15
I still wouldn't trust it.

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cory5412
68KMLA Comrade-in-Arms


USA
4679 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  05:56:23
Septic tanks are still huge and heavy aren't thye?

a nice lightweight plastic water tank would hold more water, and be less heavy for your vehicle to pull, if you actually haul your own water. We have ours brought to us.

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Stryder
Junior Member


USA
382 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  06:11:50
Depends on the truck you have and the size of the tank.

It's not something I'd personally do, but then again I'm used to always having city or town water anyways.


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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  15:23:20
Yeah. Septic tanks are made of 4-6" thick concrete. I think he meant a water tank. Unless they're making septic tanks out of plastic these days.
quote:
for our well, we have one somewhere between 36" and 48"

What is it with you people and the 48" wells? I feel totally inadequate now as a male.
quote:
we do not have to worry about screens, so life is wonderful.

Your well has to have a screen. Otherwise, it would try to suck up sand, dirt and gravel, or whatever's down there. If the water is soft, then you don't have to worry about the screen. It's the minerals that clog it up.
quote:
wouldnt pouring muriatic acid down the well make it undrinkable for a period of time, and eat the rest of the pump?

Yes, unless you're used to drinking stomach acid, becuase hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is the same thing. As for the rest of the plumbing, as long as the acid is pumped out fast, it won't hurt it. Also, the minerals in the well water and in the screen neutralize most of it anyway. Just be sure you have a stainless steel screen before you try this trick, because if it's not it needs to be replaced and the acid will eat it and make it more likely that the whole screen won't come up and some of it will be left down there.
quote:
The last Goulds pump we had lasted 20 years, when the motor finally failed (when I was in the shower, of course...),it was just bad bearings. I could have just pressed new ones on, but I figured 20 years was pretty good for a pump

lol. That's when the water likes to go off - When you're in the shower. When I lived in a trailer park, they would always shut off the water at least once a week because of all the plumbing problems. I can think of at least 2 times that I was in the shower when it went off.

Have you ever opened up one of those iron pumps? They rust out like no tomorrow. I don't know if powder coating would solve this, but I'm guessing not because 1) Some water will leak through microscopic fissures in the powder coating and 2) They can't powder coat every single surface that comes into contact with the water. I still think plastic is the way to go.Go to Top of Page

QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 07 Oct 2003 :  16:08:42
quote:
Have you ever opened up one of those iron pumps?

Yes I have, it was quite rusty, but it lasted 20 years. It will definitely take a while to rust through 3/8-1/2" of cast iron. The iron pumps are not near as noisy as the plastic ones, either. Our old pump was still quieter than my uncle's new plastic one, even with the worn ball bearings squealing away. I don't know if you are familiar with Goulds pumps, they are great quality, but also darn expensive. I think ours was like $700 or so.

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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 08 Oct 2003 :  16:10:33
Yeah, a local well drilling company uses Goulds. I guess they're supposed to be good. Some other good ones are Flint & Walling, Red Jacket and Meyers. I've got a plastic Sears pump that I swapped the motor on and that one seems to be alright. You do have a point with the iron ones being quieter, though.

The old well had a Flint & Walling pump that was cast iron, but that one seemed to always be noisy. Especially after the well wasn't working right. It could've been cavitation, though, but I don't know. Also, rain water was dripping on it from the hole in the "roof" of the "well house".

About your setup: Were you aware that if the water level in the well drops below 25' a shallow well pump won't work?Go to Top of Page

QuadraJets
Junior Member


USA
344 Posts
Posted - 08 Oct 2003 :  18:17:38
Yeah, but the level rarely drops below 10'. With such a large casing and high water table, that is not much of a problem. I live in an area where people cannot put in basements and ponds because of quicksand (very high water table). A few years ago we had a very dry summer that made the level drop to 20', but it didn't affect flow too much.


The quicksand thing is funny though, a local farmer just sold a couple 3 acre lots a few miles from here...without having a soil survey done on them. The basement contractors started to dig, and the hole kept filling back in

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Unknown_K
Full Member


USA
602 Posts
Posted - 08 Oct 2003 :  18:38:21
quote:

quote:
Have you ever opened up one of those iron pumps?

Yes I have, it was quite rusty, but it lasted 20 years. It will definitely take a while to rust through 3/8-1/2" of cast iron. The iron pumps are not near as noisy as the plastic ones, either. Our old pump was still quieter than my uncle's new plastic one, even with the worn ball bearings squealing away. I don't know if you are familiar with Goulds pumps, they are great quality, but also darn expensive. I think ours was like $700 or so.

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Did the tank have a rod that rusted out first? Most metal tanks have a rod made of a more conductive material as a sacrificial metal so the electrons travel to it and cause it to rust while leaving the tank untouched ( for rust you need iron, water, and an electrical charge). These rods are used in water heaters and other devices (metal oil pipelines etc), some of which can be replaced.

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The Lightning Stalker
Full Member


USA
747 Posts
Posted - 08 Oct 2003 :  18:44:45
Usually the newer pressure tanks have a rubber bladder in them that holds the water, so there is no direct metal-to-water contact unless the bladder breaks, but you'll know right away because you'll start blowing fuses like crazy.

QuadraJets: on the pitless adapter: You can free it. All you have to do is put a long handle t-bar tool in it to unscrew the tensioner and then if it's stuck, just tap on it with a hammer until it's free.Go to Top of Page

   

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