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Why can't I burn an install disc for my Pismo from a modern Mac?!

okto

6502
This is driving me bonkers. At some point in the past I made a bootable install disc for this Pismo. Ever since then, though, I cannot burn a CD or DVD that works. USB SuperDrive, burns discs that the MacBook reads fine, pop them in the Pismo, no dice.

I have an OS 9 install CD it will read but not boot.
I have an OS X install CD it will read but not boot.
I have an OS X install DVD it will not read or boot.
I have tried burning both from the Finder (Sonoma) and using Burn.
Why is this so hard? There shouldn't be any format issues if I'm burning from an ISO!
 
If holding the C key on bootup doesn't boot from the optical drive, then use the option key method to see what your bootable options are.
 
Something I discovered in the late 1990s/early 2000s was that for my older hardware to read/boot the discs reliably, I had to burn them on a speed the older reader could read them at. No idea why, but I got in the habit of doing this, and most of my read/boot issues vanished. Possibly this results in deeper pits in the foil that are easier for the older readers to read? That doesn't really explain the boot/no boot issue though, unless the driver for reading at boot has less fault tolerance than the one loaded by the OS.
 
Use CD-Rs, not any other type of disc, and if it's a DVD, a plain normal DVD, not dual layer or rewritable or any of that stuff. Try a slower burn speed, like 8X.

The install images could be bad. Check the first two bytes of the disc image in a hex editor.

The drive could also be bad, the lens on the laser assembly dirty. The discs could be bad: they're normally made of just aluminium oxide between two layers of plastic, if the junction breaks down, air enters and ruins the medium.

Certain Macs can also net-boot, and most if not all can use Target Disk Mode over FireWire.
 
As a complete refutation (not that I’m right or wrong), but every single CD I’ve ever made that starts a Mac was always burned at whatever the maximum possible speed of the drive I had was. Never had a problem as long as it is a good .cdr of the entire disc, not just the data volume.
 
As a complete refutation (not that I’m right or wrong), but every single CD I’ve ever made that starts a Mac was always burned at whatever the maximum possible speed of the drive I had was. Never had a problem as long as it is a good .cdr of the entire disc, not just the data volume.
This has also been my experience when it comes to burning speed, everybody says to do it slow and burning slow is when I have the most issues with my hardware.
I've also had a rough time with reliability and the slim trayloading drives of the Lombard/Pismo/TL-iMac era, but if it otherwise reads without struggling then the drive is probably well enough.
I've especially had issues with images being bad in the first place, as others have mentioned. That is a pretty important one to check.
 
I mean the burn speed itself shouldn't really be the problem, it probably has more to do with burn quality. 1x is 150kbps, 2x is 300kbps, 4x is 600kbps, and so on. Maybe this is a topic of urban legend, "it worked for me", or old wives' tale, something like that. Most of us use discs chosen for price not top of the line Verbatim Archival Grade gold discs with top-of-the line burners.

In the industries I've worked in, as many of you have worked in as well, there's at least a handful of those "we do it this way..." topics and when you look into the reasoning for it, "oh i don't know" or "that's just the way we've always done it" or "you're just being naughty" or "who cares why, it works" or "$OTHER_REASON". Famous ones include but are not limited to, synthetic oil, dragging a file "backwards", using a shear on cellulose based materials, different methods for broken bolt extraction, bolt torque principles, even tyre pressures.

We're all human, and we have our faults. I'm going to look into this burn speed myth or or not to see if there's any substance to it. CD drives aren't really common any more, but they were, so this one might be a juicy urban legend one.

In the mean time there's two types of disc "burning". Factory made stamped ones, where the disc is physically stamped with a die to form all the tracks. The other is burning like what we do, where a laser etches out a dye layer to expose tracks. Throughout the years it's quite likely that both drives and media followed a similar bell curve of production quality like floppy disks did: early on they were rubbish, then got decent, then got really good as they perfected it, then returned to mediocre quality as cost reduction became the primary focus. Anyways, stamped discs typically don't suffer the same failure mode as burned dye discs do, which is one contributor to why your scratched up old Mac OS 9.0.4 disc still seems to work but the disc you burned last year doesn't read any more.
 
Found a few things.

Burning 16x DVD+Rs at 4x would be better, surely?
the best burning speed for DVDs
DVD testing

Both of the last two links referenced Nero DiscSpeed, a relic by now, but should still work fine. It's an interesting program that runs under Windows. It might be useful for the purposes of our discussion, if the disc image does indeed the ER header bytes. Now that I think about it, I have a stack of Maxell discs, which aren't the best reputation wise, but that's all they had at the store, and I mostly use them for short term uses. That software might be useful in the future.

DVD- write speed(s) when authoring


There's also an old forum devoted more or less to this topic. It's gone now, but you can browse what is saved by the Internet Archive.


Here's some longevity pages.

Finally more technical stuff. Some of this wasn't easy to get. The last one is about BlueRay discs, but I thought it was interesting enough to include here. The rest are attached PDFs.
 

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