SE/30 Checkerboard

[theos911]

I'm looking into two classics:

A plus and SE/30, both for a good price.

However the SE/30 is listed as "Powers up to a bright screen, but only displays a checkered board design."

 

The plus is listed as "Powers up to a bright, sharp screen. The floppy drive is "stiff" and may work with a good cleaning. Right now I can't get it to boot from floppy."

1) I've heard the checkerboard on an SE/30 means you need to clean the ROMS/RAM http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#CheckerFlag I think I can handle removing and cleaing with alcohol a ROM and it's connector or removing RAM until it has the right config.

2)Would that be as proper description of a Plus with no Boot Floppy? I'm guessing the floppy drive needs greased, which if anyone knows a good way to do please let me know.

 

[mcdermd]

On number one, you're more likely to need to replace all of the capacitors on the logic board rather than simply clean the RAM and ROM.

 

[theos911]

On number one, you're more likely to need to replace all of the capacitors on the logic board rather than simply clean the RAM and ROM.

I thought that was the bunch of vertical lines thing?

 

[trag]

There are a number of different problems that can cause the same symptoms. Many (most?) SE/30s of that age need to have their capacitors replaced. There are several threads here about the procedure.

 

[mcdermd]

The SE/30 I picked up today displayed a static-like screen and sad Mac chimes of death.

I replaced capacitors C5, C6 and C7 as they had visible signs of leakage. That was enough to give me a happy Mac and a good boot. Undoubtedly, the rest will need replaced as they could start (or already be) leaking also.

 

[theos911]

About what length torx would I need to open it?

 

[Mk.558]

I went down to a local Fastenal and they didn't have any in stock but could have ordered one. So I went to Sears to check out their inventory, just so happened to have a T-15 torx with a 6" (~15cm) long shaft (make it 10 5/8 if you include the handle) that just barely fits.

If the computer has never been opened or not opened much, you might need a "Case Cracker" as it was called in the day. The alternative that works just as well is a solid putty knife. The idea is to run it along the edge to free it, not pry it open like you're underwater and found a large case of expensive riches.

 

[techknight]

or an old dead creditcard

 

[bibilit]

Or simply turn the SE upside down (screen facing the floor) screws not totally removed.

Holding the SE by the rear case will eventually free the casing.

 

[djcommie]

Mine works fine with 8x1MB RAM SIMMs, but if I put any higher capacity in, it gives the same image that mcdermd posted. I know the RAM is good because its 4MB stick out of a pile of LCIIs which all functioned.

 

[theos911]

Though I've posted elsewhere, I should mention it here:

A run through the dishwasher fixed the board right up! I know the caps will need replaced at some point, but for now, we are A-Ok.

Also, one Plus is actually an original un-branded 128k upgraded to a plus in working condition. The other(Which he added for free) is a standard Plus w/ a bad floppy drive

 

[kite210]

About what length torx would I need to open it?

When I had my 128k, I took a standard length torx screwdriver, and filed away part of the handle. It allowed me to reach the screws easily, and without having to order a longer one.

 

[CompactMacLover]

Harbor freight tools makes a good set for working on vintage macs $7.99 cant beat the price, I use it all the time, The screwdriver is extendable.. and if you have a tough screw in a compact, just take a pair of plyers and put it on the screwdriver and give it a twist.. Cheap, easy and effective. Ive got one SE/30 that is showing signs of capacitors going bad, One of these days ill get around to do it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html