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Reddish hue around Color Classic screen
- Thread starter SpinEcho
- Start date
That drivetrain is fine in the Taurus, if you follow the 30,000 mile fluid change schedule. People don't and then blame the poor car when it dies, like pretty much every other car failure. You've got roughly fifty thousand components in a 1990's car, things do wear out.
The Windstar is a bit heavy for it, but with care it can last.
The Windstar is a bit heavy for it, but with care it can last.
Falcon: I agree, and with a (largely unnecessary, I might add) rebuild at ~20-30k, it should last forever (we hardly drive it anymore because, among other things, the A/C barely works (so it's miserable driving it on a hot day), the headlights inexplicably started "blinking out" (at night, no less), and these aforementioned stalling issues).
So, anyway, I can't rule out the ECU at this point, because we took it to several different mechanics, and they all looked it over and found everything to be in good working order (all the sensors check out, the engine is mechanically in good shape, etc.), so the ONLY possible explanation for it's quirky behavior that I can think of is an ECU problem so minute that typical OBDII scanners can't detect it (the problem is not in the programming, in other words).
I suspect caps, because they're failing in just about everything else these days, and their failure usually causes some rather bizarre and otherwise inexplicable problems.
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So, anyway, I can't rule out the ECU at this point, because we took it to several different mechanics, and they all looked it over and found everything to be in good working order (all the sensors check out, the engine is mechanically in good shape, etc.), so the ONLY possible explanation for it's quirky behavior that I can think of is an ECU problem so minute that typical OBDII scanners can't detect it (the problem is not in the programming, in other words).
I suspect caps, because they're failing in just about everything else these days, and their failure usually causes some rather bizarre and otherwise inexplicable problems.
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Or a bad ground...
Also dont throw the "maintenance" thing at me. Lol. Thats what everyone says and is true to a point....
Dad had the car since new and had a catastrophic trans failure around 17k miles. Luckily warranty covered it.
And yes routine service was done on it like every other car hes owned.
So the trans went again around 65k or so. He changed it and he gave me the car about 162k or so. so he did get some use out of it.
but by that point the head gaskets were already failing and there was a bad ground somewhere because the coolant had turned to rust water. and no matter how often he changed it it was even worse. and that's the car you have to use the red stuff and not the green stuff.
Also dont throw the "maintenance" thing at me. Lol. Thats what everyone says and is true to a point....
Dad had the car since new and had a catastrophic trans failure around 17k miles. Luckily warranty covered it.
And yes routine service was done on it like every other car hes owned.
So the trans went again around 65k or so. He changed it and he gave me the car about 162k or so. so he did get some use out of it.
but by that point the head gaskets were already failing and there was a bad ground somewhere because the coolant had turned to rust water. and no matter how often he changed it it was even worse. and that's the car you have to use the red stuff and not the green stuff.
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guess if your not gonna maintain your car, its best to just have a lease every 2 years... drive it, beat it up... get a new one. 
I like buying cars broke, i picked up my BMW for a steal, and it was just the pressure tank screw... The seller told me it had a blown head or head gasket. Unity is rebuilding a V12 7 series BMW in his garage as we speak, he may even got it running today?
I like buying cars broke, i picked up my BMW for a steal, and it was just the pressure tank screw... The seller told me it had a blown head or head gasket. Unity is rebuilding a V12 7 series BMW in his garage as we speak, he may even got it running today?
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You don't use anything but green in a '98 Vulcan powered car. And yes, if not maintained the block gets a lot of sediment in them.
I dont remember what engine it had, But its long gone now.... Who cares? The brakes would randomly bypass on me. It had a new master cylinder, etc.. But every once in awhile, the brakes would go to the floor, and keep going to the floor, I had a guy change out the master again and made no difference. Then also randomly, had full brakes. I am assuming the ABS controller was going bad. Who knows, I dont work on cars....
Either way, totaled it so it doesnt matter. haha.
Either way, totaled it so it doesnt matter. haha.
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Did the brakes stop working when you totaled it?
Of all the problems our Windstar has had, two things continue to work: the brakes and the doors. Literally EVERYTHING else on that wretched car has had *some* sort of problem (my favorite is when, for many years, the radio would randomly mute itself, and if we forgot to turn it off, it would un-mute and blast in our ears out if we accelerated a certain way or knocked on the roof in a certain spot; I finally discovered that some mice ate every morsel of insulation off the wiring harness for the rear radio controls, causing a short in pretty much every circuit, including, of course, an intermittent short in the mute button (duh!). Painstakingly wrapping all thoswe wires in electrical tape (and patching one that was actually eaten through) solved 100% of it's problems, and even got the long since broken map lights working for the first time in like 8 years.)
c
Of all the problems our Windstar has had, two things continue to work: the brakes and the doors. Literally EVERYTHING else on that wretched car has had *some* sort of problem (my favorite is when, for many years, the radio would randomly mute itself, and if we forgot to turn it off, it would un-mute and blast in our ears out if we accelerated a certain way or knocked on the roof in a certain spot; I finally discovered that some mice ate every morsel of insulation off the wiring harness for the rear radio controls, causing a short in pretty much every circuit, including, of course, an intermittent short in the mute button (duh!). Painstakingly wrapping all thoswe wires in electrical tape (and patching one that was actually eaten through) solved 100% of it's problems, and even got the long since broken map lights working for the first time in like 8 years.)
c
Guys,
Looks like this thread went a bit off topic. But a in good way. Getting back to the reddish tint on the periphery of my CC screen, the problem does NOT travel with the recapped logic board (which was deftly completed by Uniserver, BTW). So looks like the problem might just lie with the AB. Hopefully not the CRT. Not too bothersome at this point to try to rectify, so I guess I'll leave it alone. Thanks for all the input!
I would tap on the board while its on with an insulated handle/tool, and tap on the CRT board as well, and see if the problem comes in goes.
If its stuck and doesnt come back, Then the last resort is working the pots back and forth.
Worst case scenario is the video amplifier IC has failed, and I can almost certainly guarantee that you have to get those from a chinese parts broker house.
If its stuck and doesnt come back, Then the last resort is working the pots back and forth.
Worst case scenario is the video amplifier IC has failed, and I can almost certainly guarantee that you have to get those from a chinese parts broker house.
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/25644-color-classic-now-with-a-purple-screen/?p=273088
slightly mechanically work your pots, there is R G B pots back there and they need to be slightly worked back and forth ( when having color issues )
return the pot back to its original position. just work it + / - a little. see if the proper color returns.
The Macintosh B+W Classic/Classic II AB, has the same anomaloly sometimes.
where you will get oddness in the screen… and such. the pots need to be moved back and forth.
slightly mechanically work your pots, there is R G B pots back there and they need to be slightly worked back and forth ( when having color issues )
return the pot back to its original position. just work it + / - a little. see if the proper color returns.
The Macintosh B+W Classic/Classic II AB, has the same anomaloly sometimes.
where you will get oddness in the screen… and such. the pots need to be moved back and forth.
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