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Reddish hue around Color Classic screen

SpinEcho

6502
It seems that in most, if not all Color Classics I've seen, the display does not use the entire width and height of the CRT screen real estate, but leaves about 1/4" black border unused.  Anyone know why that is? More importantly, in both of my CCs (one upgraded with a LC520 board and another with a Presto Plus), I've noticed that the black border now has a reddish tint to it which is really noticeable under poor lighting. This went away one day on the LC520 upgraded unit but remains on my other CC. Has anyone else noticed this on their CC or figured out what may be causing this? Just want to make sure that this isn't some sign of imminent screen failure. Thanks in advance for any input! 

 
Probably a cap issue. I have the same issue with mine now, sometimes the whole display will cast over in magenta. Since I sold my other, I can not test if its the mobo's fault. But I am pretty sure its analog caps.

 
 i had a LC575 that had a slight reddish tint once.

the funny thing though is, i changed the CRT with a parts machine and the red tint went away.

but yeah as unity said, the AB and the MB needs caps too...   All LC5XX and CC models.  

unity sold me his color classic. its a beauty! i'm going to fire it up tonight and play around.

 
Uni and Uni,

Thanks for your suggestions. Small world, Uniserver. Just as you bought your CC from Unity, I bought my recapped LC520 board from you as well as the recap service on my other CC MB with the Presto Plus. Remember? Both now run OS 7.6 with the Presto Plus CC dual booting 7.6 and 8.1. Great job, by the way!  Aside from the screen issue, these are both functioning well.

But what this means is that the MB caps are NOT the problem. Maybe the AB caps instead or the CRT? I see Elfin's suggestion about the red setting being too high as a possible explanation but am not sure. Oddly, the problem went away on my LC520-upgraded CC after I removed the back housing and used a leaf blower to remove every speck of dust on the interior of the unit. The thing had been in someone's basement for years before I bought it. The problem with my other CC came on suddenly a few days ago and hasn't gone away. Really annoying.

 
so if you swap main boards in the 2 cc's does the red tint follow the CC mb to the swapped machine?

i'm happy to have 2 CC's again... hopefully when i fire up the one i got from unity powers up HAHA.

 
It better power up, I sold you my GOOD one! lol

I put my money on AB caps. It would be odd for the adjustment to get out of spec on its own.

 
Swapping logic boards is an excellent idea. Once I accomplish this, I'll let you know the results. Unity, I agree that it would be odd for the color adjustment to be altered spontaneously, especially on two separate CCs, though I guess this is worth a shot, if all else fails.

On a completely different topic (which maybe should be posted separately), have you guys tried and had any major issues with using a 575 board for the Mystic upgrade? Thinking of buying a third CC to complete the trilogy. If I proceed, I don't intend to alter the native screen resolution, though I'm aware this requires a ResEdit modification all the same. Just wondering if the Mystic CC is known to be associated with any major bugs or decreased longevity of the unit. Some problems with the mod have indeed been posted, so just wanted to pick your guys' and anyone else's brains before proceeding.  Uniserver, you might just get another logic board to recap in the process.

 
IMG_2097.jpg

works, and still on original caps too!

now i need to get started on this BMW EDC, epoxy coated controler from unity's V12 race car.

IMG_2096.jpg

CC and Mystic upgrade.

i would be for the mystic upgrade if you did the SW patch to run the monitor at its stock resolution.

but the 640x480 hack,  its just no good…   and not to mention it will throw most people into an ecliptic shock. To me, 47 HZ is not a usable refresh rate.

 
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car ECUs are a PITA.    fixed a friend's Audi S6 ECU years ago, sunroof drain clogged and soaked the hell out of the ECU.    enough that the harness corroded and pins started to come out of it.  nightmare.     but replacement was $1200 so it was worth a shot.   I got it to work again, so he was happy. 

 
yeah the sunroof drain is clogged in my saturn vue…  its causing my A/C to basically not work.

i need to tear it all apart, just so busy...

 
attachicon.gif
IMG_2096.jpg

CC and Mystic upgrade.

i would be for the mystic upgrade if you did the SW patch to run the monitor at its stock resolution.

but the 640x480 hack,  its just no good…   and not to mention it will throw most people into an ecliptic shock. To me, 47 HZ is not a usable refresh rate.
My god!!!  What board is that with the huge red heat sinks??!!

jack

 
That board, with the heat sinks, if for the suspension system. :) Its one of those crazy active type things with inertia sensors in the car. I can only assume since its always working hard and reading the road it must really heat up. I thought the same when I first saw it.

 
I've mentoined this before, but we have a 1998 Ford Windstar minivan, and it is rather quirky (it will stall if you accelerate just right during a hard turn, sometimes, it'll stall for no reason), and the more I think about it, the more it seems like an ECU (or PCM, as Ford calls it) issue, probably cap related.

Of course, this model of car is noted for being among the most unreliable Ford has produced in the last 30 years, so there's that.

c

 
Probably the MAF sensor. My parents had the same issue. Any stain on the engine during partial idle. Or sudden movement of the gas pedal could result in a stall. But it was not constant. I know they replaced the MAF and I replaced the idle air control valve - never an issue again. Same minivan, I think it too is even a 98.

 
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