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Should be pretty easy to find a replacement as long as the markings on the top of the part or still readable (or if someone else can post theirs). That will tell us the inductance. Also need to know the lead spacing.
Agree, that's some brittle solder. The rough/dull joints be reflowed with flux.
My approach when working without a schematic like this is to just get the one with the highest saturation current that physically fits and meets any other known specs. If there's an extreme cost difference, just "pretty high" or "higher than average" is probably enough, considering we're dealing with 30+ year newer parts. I like Digi-Key's interface for sorting parametrically for parts like this.
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