Just because it worked in the 1990's doesn't equal a good sign but if you must try it it out then go for it.
I am fully aware of that thank you. I just meant that the sticker was a "good sign" because some of the stickers said "bad" or "not working" lol. I havent powered any on except the couple all in one SE's after I took them apart and inspected them as many said they are likely working.You can go to several sites to check the differences between Mac models. https://everymac.com is one of them. There you can even run a comparison between some. Just because it worked in the 1990's doesn't equal a good sign but if you must try it it out then go for it.
People recommend on certain models that are prone to damages and wear to reflow and replace parts before even trying to power it on. This is especially true of the professionals here that have recovered many machines that others would have deemed toast.
All of these machines came from an IT guy from a university so he labeled them himself as he repaired them, thats all...Right.. I was going to say, ALL these machines came with a sticker in the 80s or 90s that said they worked... From Apple, no less.![]()
Yes sir ive watched several videos on soldering. I am in the process of getting my first soldering rig and i have have plenty of worthless things to practice on. I just made this thread to share my experience going through these machines in hopes not just myself but others can come back and read it and get something out of it.There are threads that get into how to soldier and what rig to buy. They recommend that you practice on a junk board first. Any questions about it are probably already answered there.
A toothbrush works wonders for cleaning those outEdit: Still a bunch of shit in the grooves lol, oh well
Hell yeah good tip thanksA toothbrush works wonders for cleaning those out
I got a Pinecil last year and it works great! Super happy with it, I feel no need to upgrade. Recapped maybe 30 logic boards with it by now. Tiny, heats up really fast, runs off of one my my macbook charger, really convenient since I live in an apartment and space is limited.I'm curious about what people here think if the Pinecil (v2)? I have been using that for my (limited) recapping and I'm happy with it. I like the low cost and the convenient size. Just curious. Thanks!
Hakko FX-888D is always a solid choice.I am hoping a couple more people come with recommendations for a soldering kit/station/setup. I appreciation the couple people who gave their opinions so far, and im sure many more people viewing the thread will also appreciate it. Please share your advice and wisdom in this subject if you are able.
I am liking this one. At right around 100 dollars its cheap enough. It says its 220V though is that common for these lol its like a welderHakko FX-888D is always a solid choice.
I definitely seems like a good deal price wise which scares me. I am liking that Hakko one the best so far. But I like the Metcal that obselete recommended a page back, but that one seems real high end for a beginner and the price is quite a bit more, just for the used box its 150+ then you need the gun and the little holder setup whatever you call it and that alone is damn pricey too lol. Seems like the one to graduate to.This is the soldering iron I've been using for about 2 years now -> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097XX76V4
Throw away the solder they include. Use this instead -> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KM1W7MW
Throw away the tiny sponge too. Get a larger one.
Yes, that iron is cheap. But I've successfully recapped a Macintosh LC and IIcx with it. I should probably have a better setup by now, but it works for me. I usually crank it to 420 °C for general soldering.
It is important to keep your soldering iron tip clean. Otherwise, it will wear out quickly. I wipe it shiny on a wet solder sponge after working a few joints.