Hi I'm new here. I recently bought a se/30 off ebay. Seller said it was working but by the time I received i, the screen is black. I can hear the fan and hard disk startup but screen is black. I downloaded the guide and going to try to open the se/30. It's been off for 2 days. Is there still fear of getting shocked? I remember hearing stories as a kid of people getting killed opening a se/30. I know very little about electronics. Please let me know if it's safe for me to open se/30. Thanks.
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opening a se/30. Electric shock?
- Thread starter joebang
- Start date
Hi,joebang.
I think 2 days are enough to dis-charge.but still you want be sure dis-charge hi voltage.so you should follow this instruction
http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#DischargeCRT
For blank screen,Are you sure brightness knob isn't positioned 0.or did you hear the chime?
I think 2 days are enough to dis-charge.but still you want be sure dis-charge hi voltage.so you should follow this instruction
http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#DischargeCRT
For blank screen,Are you sure brightness knob isn't positioned 0.or did you hear the chime?
+5 and +12 line mean power supply.middle of this page,you can find pins you can check voltage
http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2015-05-14-mac-plus-checkerboard.htm
http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2015-05-14-mac-plus-checkerboard.htm
Send it for repair to someone who knows what they are doing.
I dont want to offend anyone, but if you dont know what voltages are, then there is no need for you to work on it.
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Techknight has an excellent point, especially if you know someone with more expertise that you can take it to for help.
However, if you want to learn a little bit about the inside of the machine, read Larry Pina's Repair and Upgrade Secrets and/or The Dead Mac Scrolls (pdfs are floating around the internet, or physical copies are available from used book services for very reasonable prices) and you'll have a better understanding of what is involved.
Opening the back of the case is perfectly safe as long as you keep your fingers away from anything leading to the CRT. I was comfortable doing things on the logic board for a long time before I worked up the nerve to learn how to discharge a CRT and detach the analog board.
For things like testing the voltage, you would need a multimeter (you can do this without even removing the back, see Larry Pina). If you want to try your hand at replacing caps, that requires a good soldering iron and accessories. I'm hoping to learn more about soldering this summer.
Good luck!
However, if you want to learn a little bit about the inside of the machine, read Larry Pina's Repair and Upgrade Secrets and/or The Dead Mac Scrolls (pdfs are floating around the internet, or physical copies are available from used book services for very reasonable prices) and you'll have a better understanding of what is involved.
Opening the back of the case is perfectly safe as long as you keep your fingers away from anything leading to the CRT. I was comfortable doing things on the logic board for a long time before I worked up the nerve to learn how to discharge a CRT and detach the analog board.
For things like testing the voltage, you would need a multimeter (you can do this without even removing the back, see Larry Pina). If you want to try your hand at replacing caps, that requires a good soldering iron and accessories. I'm hoping to learn more about soldering this summer.
Good luck!
I'm starting to think this is the wisest thing to do. Can someone recommend a repair shop? I'm in Southern California. Thank you.
That's when the electrons are all upside-down.
Problem is, without the lid, they will all fall out!
To help the original poster, you won't likely find a repair shop anywhere that will work on machines this old. Uniserver (who posted above) has a mail-order business of replacing capacitors on old logic boards, and does a good job of it. I'm not sure if he does other troubleshooting work too, but I think he does.
If you're interested in learning more on your own, then get yourself a cheap multimeter and a copy of the Dead Mac Scrolls, and go to it. You may not be able to fix it, but you can probably narrow down the problem, at least. You're not going to kill yourself with a shock - just don't touch the high voltage part of the CRT, or discharge it using instructions in the Dead Mac Scrolls, or leave the machine unplugged for a while to let the high voltage bleed off.
Given the symptoms you described, you've got power, but no boot chime or picture on the screen, so it's likely a logic board problem. It's probably worth opening it up to take a look inside at least, and maybe you'll see an obvious problem like a battery that exploded and ate away the logic board with spilled acid.
If you're interested in learning more on your own, then get yourself a cheap multimeter and a copy of the Dead Mac Scrolls, and go to it. You may not be able to fix it, but you can probably narrow down the problem, at least. You're not going to kill yourself with a shock - just don't touch the high voltage part of the CRT, or discharge it using instructions in the Dead Mac Scrolls, or leave the machine unplugged for a while to let the high voltage bleed off.
Given the symptoms you described, you've got power, but no boot chime or picture on the screen, so it's likely a logic board problem. It's probably worth opening it up to take a look inside at least, and maybe you'll see an obvious problem like a battery that exploded and ate away the logic board with spilled acid.
