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Macintosh SE M5010 - Restoration

I had to recap my SE PSU due to some voltage issues but aside from some wonky video (still gotta fix that, and the floppy drives), there's really only the PSU to worry about, and if nothing happens on the video side of things then you should be good.
Have you done any floppy maintenance? I really have to fix my SE drives.
 
Thanks for the input! I have not gotten in to the floppies yet, I was hoping to do those this weekend, ahead of the parts arriving next week.

Is there a good video or link on restoring Sony floppies, for the SE?

EDIT: Found a video for the 800K floppies.
 
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Got the PSU caps today.
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Cleaned the board, lots of old flux from the factory still.
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Drill the hole for the large cap.
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Scrape layer to expose more copper around the large cap - lead.
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Finished PSU.
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Removed the old heat grease and put in new Thermalcote I.
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Added Clear Silicone to hold the deguass magnets to the transformer again.
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Ready for service.
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Got the 12% Peroxide creme, going to test on the mouse first.
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Ordered the caps for both 800K floppies, and the caps for the Analog board, that should all be here by this Friday. Will leave the logic board alone, unless I see any problems.
 
First of all, great job with the recap!

Do you mind telling me the cost of the caps from Mouser? I usually price check Console5 vs Digi and Mouser but it seems Console5 wins out just about every single time.

Thanks and keep up the great work!
 
I really appreciate the encouragement, thanks!

I was going to buy the Console5 kit, but they don't list what caps they provide, or their temperature rating for the PSU kit; I'm sure they use quality caps, but I wanted 105°C Nichicon and Kemet.

The cost for the Sony PSU parts at Mouser was $27.00 parts, $7.99 4-day shipping, $2.50 tax, or $37.49 total.

I used this excellent Mouser parts list that was attached to this very helpful video, couldn't have done this as easily without the video or list.



I made another Mouser order for the (2) 800K floppy drives, and the Analog board, for all three, parts were $19.85, $7.99 shipping, $1.84 tax, grand total $29.68.

Analog board:https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManag...QT4T*dW5kZWZpbmVk*_ga_1KQLCYKRX3*dW5kZWZpbmVk

800K Floppy: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=87f9582e81
 
The sun is out today, going to get started on the mouse while I wait for Mouser parts.
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I have read that I need to keep the surface that will be bleached, constantly basted in 12% peroxide cream, all day in the direct sun and uncovered, and to not let it dry off, by reapplying the cream every 20 minutes if necessary.

Do I have this correct?
 
Three 20 minute coatings in 12% peroxide cream, did this.
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You can see the marks left by the brush I used to apply the peroxide, would be best to wipe the cream on with a rag to make it coat evenly.
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In comparison, it looks new again.
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Really pleased with the results so far, and in about an hour. Going to give the mouse one more even coat, to get rid of those brush stroke marks, and then move on to the front bezel, really excited to see that come back to life.
 
Ran out of sunlight, but got the top of the keyboard with two 20 minute treatments, only 40 minutes for the keyboard.

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I never thought it would be this easy to get rid of the yellow. Will try to finish the peroxide treatments on the case tomorrow. Need to remove the space bar from the keyboard and treat it separately still.
 
I ended up having the SE that doesn't have the speaker melted permanently in the case, my speaker had washers holding it in.
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Was able to pry the washers off without ruining anything.
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Should be ready to finish the peroxide tomorrow.
 
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The only yellow left is on the space bar, have a key cap puller coming tomorrow, will finish the KB then. Going to do another couple of treatments tomorrow when the sun is back out, the bezel I want to be as fresh as it can be.
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Too hot out to finish the peroxide at the moment.

Got the Mouser order for the floppies and analog board.

Recapped the (2) 800k floppies
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Going to clean and lube these next, they're dry and dirty.
 
Disassembled and cleaned.
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The gears look to be in good condition still.
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Will lube and reassemble, and then do the second one.
 
A search here turned up this set of gears:

Is this still the best choice? Thanks!
 
As I was looking at your pictures, I was thinking to myself, “that cheese gear is about to disintegrate….” Then I saw your next message.

These are readily available all over the Internet, and my experience is you never know what you’re going to get until you get it. I’ve bought two lots from the same source and all the gears from the first lot are still going strong over a year later, and I’ve had three gears now from the second lot already disintegrate after a couple months. Third party testimonials I’ve read all indicate similar experiences.

If someone knows of a 100% consistently good source, I’d love to hear it too. Have not bought from the source you linked.
 
This looks like it's for (4) cheese gears only. Do these correctly match the tooth pitch of the surrounding stock gears?

Has anyone tried the Japan set recently?

I'm far from a big spender, but I would definitely pay whatever the cost to have the best eject gears made; got this SE for free long ago, just want to never have to do this replacement again.


Also, lost one of these floppy carrier washers somehow, tore the place apart, went through the garbage too. Does someone make these, or sell originals? I know they are vinyl washers, but what would I search for to look for one of these? Thanks!
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I found on another forum where someone lost one of their floppy vinyl washers too.

The measurements given were 3mm ID, 8mm ID.

Closest I could find is (1000) M3 x 8mm x 1mm, for $10.


Just measured the original washers.
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The actual measurements that I have, is 2.60mm ID, 8mm OD, 0.30mm thickness. The Amazon washers at 1mm thick would not work. Going to have to find an original, or make one of these.
 
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