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Mac Plus Advice C1 - Confusing the cap out of myself

H

haemogoblin

6502
Hey all

I've been trying to repair my poorly Plus and replaced the C1 cap using the classicmac repair PDF. The cap i had thought was the right component, turned out not to be such and i ended up with a popped cap, luckily it wasn't too much of a mess inside and i was able to clean everything up. So I'm back, hoping someone can enlighten me on a couple of things.

I've been looking over the forum and saw a thread recommending the ECW-F2395JB from digikey. I have placed an order for two of these, but after ordering. I discovered a firm closer to home, here in Europe. Which appears to be selling a similar component, but with a couple of letters different in the model number. I'm not an electronics engineer, just a hobbiest but my guess is these are also acceptable for repairing the Plus. Not having the proper knowledge to confirm this, I would like a more experience opinion.

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=ECW-F2395JB&x=0&y=0&cur=USD

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Electronic-Components/ECW-F2395JA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF0%252bjlB8SXIRuyeoz%252bWgTzuM%3d

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/polypropylene-film-capacitors/7270048/

Many thanks

James

 
The specs are identical, so it would be safe to use the RS product. If it is a different manufacturer, serial numbers may differ. there can be minor differences in lifetime performance between different brands and makers, but it would take you a lifetime to find out. See several threads on this forum debating the merits of different caps for identical uses.

If, like me, you are not in USA, then the order despatch costs from DigiKey and Mouser can be killers unless you are ordering a big bunch of stuff.

Rick

 
Thanks Rick, I have actually ordered two from digikey. Putting me back £15, but at least I know that they are tried and tested components. I found the RS alternative shortly after ordering.

 
Well the cap arrived and so far no popping and the Plus is working ok, tho I have noticed the display stretches after about an hour. So i either need to wait for the screen to warm up and adjust it so i have a border or replace more caps, so screen doesn't expand so much.

 
After being on for about 3 hrs the other day, i've come back today to use the plus. I flicked the switch, hear a faint short fizzle noise and nothing. The machine is now not booting and i'm getting no volts from the external floppy port, i've checked the glass fuse and it's ok.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 
While this may totally not be the case here:

my plus would reboot over and over again when i turned it on, turned out to be a broken solder joint on the analog board connector to the logic board (J4 IIRC).

try gently slapping the plus casing on the side of the analog board, to see if you get it to do anything.

This might likely not be your problem since you get no power at all, but it certainly fixed my power and video issues.

 
A fizzle on power-up is most likely another capacitor burning out, very likely in the PSU circuitry. It would be rare for this to happen without showing some signs of smoke or recent fluid leakage. Take a very close look at your analog board.

If you are lucky it could be the filter capacitor right next to the IEC power socket. I say lucky, because those are simple to replace.

Rick

 
Thanks guys

I'm in talks with fellow member CC_333, about buying a kit from him with all all the caps or sending the board to him to fault find. I am confident with my abilities, but i also know when something is reaching above my skill level to fault find and I'm getting the distinct feeling I'm getting very close. Which is always a good time to admit defeat before you cock it up and make it worse, better to let someone else have a try.

I'll be taking photo's of the analog board later today and i shall post them up here for you guys to have a look at. Half a dozen pairs of eye's is better then one! :beige:

 
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