Just recapped SE30 - Boots fine but still no sound?!?

[srieck]

Recapped all except c2 and c11 (which look good visually) ...still no sound except for very very faint from the headphone jack. What should I look for in terms of the sound issue next?

- RAM issue?

- Something on the analog board?

- c2 and c11 ?

- faulty headphone jack ?

- anything else ?

Thanks!

 

[srieck]

Also when I go to the sound control panel (sys 7.0.1) and click on the alert sounds (I turned the volume up), I get a very brief distorted sound from sosumi and clickclack only (the others are silent).

There is a very soft steady clicking coming from the speaker which was also there before the recap.

 

[srieck]

Ok - actually it's acting exactly as it did before the recap.

- sometimes dead screen on startup (the drive is spinning and the system is booting just a black screen which will sometimes come on if I gently shake it)

- No sound including bong - steady soft click from the speaker...faint sound from the headphone jack.

 

[Unknown_K]

Get out the multimeter and see if any traces by those leaking capacitors are broken. Other issue could be leaking goo took out a chip making repairs probably not worth it (do a board swap). Make sure all the voltages from the power sections are what they should be.

 

[phreakout]

I doubt C2 and C11 would be the culprit. I'd be looking at C3 through C7. It could be that the traces are corroded, preventing proper electrical flow. For that, you can start by tracing out where each connection on C3-C7's pads go. IIRC, the negative side of those cap's pads connect to chassis ground and the positive side may go directly to the pins of UB10 and UB11. So, go grab a continuity tester (one that will give a steady tone when the circuit is closed between the probes (aka traced). Once traced, you can take either enamel coated magnet wire or small gauge stranded wire to act as a bypass for the connections.

Another thing would be to try "pulling up" the sound chip UB11. To do that, solder a 1 kilo-ohm resistor (watts doesn't matter) between pins 7 and 15. The pins on UB11 are numbered counter-clockwise. Pin 1 is closest to the small dot on top of the chip and on the notch's side.

If those fail to fix, you might have to replace the Bourns network filter (RP2). You can get replacement RP2s easily from off of dead Mac SE or SE/30 logic boards; they both use the same part number. You can also build your own: http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#NoPointer.

Regarding the most recent post for this thread you wrote, it sounds like it could be this. But before you go replacing parts, try resoldering those parts located on the analog board. Over time, heat and age can cause cracks in the solder, giving you the symptoms you are experiencing. Resoldering can be the cheap, easy and permanent solution. So try that first.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[srieck]

Can I pop in a known working SE logic board (which I have) ?

This will tell me right away if the problem is in the logic board or analog board.

I'm not sure if both the SE and SE/30 use the same analog board??? Or if there's any other risk in swapping model boards?

 

[srieck]

Also - my instinct tells me that the shaking it to get it going thing means a loose connection somewhere. I can only imagine that loose connection is on the analog board or the CRT itself since i've examined the logic board closely?

Does this sound like a reasonable assumption.

 

[srieck]

I put my recapped SE/30 logic board in my SE and was happy to hear a healthy startup chime!

So I'm assuming the logic board is ok.

The sound and clicking issues must be related to the analog board.

I'm happy to have what appears to be a clean, healthy logic board which seem to be much tougher to find than analogue boards.

 

[phreakout]

Yes, the SE and SE/30 both share the same power supply, analog board, metal chassis and crt. That's the beauty behind such a simple design. You can update an SE to an SE/30 simply by swapping the logic boards.

As far as shaking goes, I'm leaning on one or all of the plastic connectors on the analog board. Like I said earlier, old age and heat expands the metal in the solder, causing it to crack. You can pretty much permanently fix that problem by resoldering the solder joints on the bottom of the board. I did with mine and it made a difference.

I put my recapped SE/30 logic board in my SE and was happy to hear a healthy startup chime! So I'm assuming the logic board is ok.

The sound and clicking issues must be related to the analog board.

I'm happy to have what appears to be a clean, healthy logic board which seem to be much tougher to find than analogue boards.

I couldn't agree with you more. I was on eBay the last week of March up untill a week and a half ago, doing some mean bidding on a working SE/30. I had to after my personally owned SE/30 logic board quit working after recapping (still had Simasimac). I had to prepare a spare SCSI hard drive for another member and was in serious need for a working one. I won the bid, but not after the other bidder drove the price up to $90 !@#$ing dollars!! I kept thinking, either this bidder is a serious collector, has the same needs as I do, or they're some Windoze user who wants to turn it into a MacQuarium, become a member of Jacka$$, bored and wants to smash something, etc.

It came with 1MB RAM (I've got up to 8 right now, hoping to put more in), original 40MB SCSI hard drive (I've got a 700MB one ready to go), Extended keyboard (the one with function keys, looks like a PC keyboard), ADB mouse, original "Open Me First" w/ manuals and other literature (OMF is the floppy disk collection; includes Mouse Basics and SSW 6.0.4 install floppies. Sorry, they don't work.) and a full copy of Quark X-Press 2.1.2. $90 + ~$30 in shipping, but was coming from a few hours South of me. Better than getting another one from MN w/ Simasimac.

The SE/30, keyboard and mouse all have yellowing...time for some RetroBrite! } :lol:

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[srieck]

Thanks for the advice - that sounds easy to do once I get the analog board out. Is it risky? Do I need to discharge the CRT?

What's the best method for extracting the analog board without paying the ultimate cost for 68k liberation ?

 

[tt]

Yes, the SE and SE/30 both share the same power supply, analog board, metal chassis and crt. That's the beauty behind such a simple design. You can update an SE to an SE/30 simply by swapping the logic boards.

The metal chassis is not the same. If you want to use the SE/30 PDS slot, some hacking is required. xx(

 

[srieck]

I can verify that....I couldn't get it to really fit by about a 1/2 an inch. The power cable going to the analog board just hits the chassis and that logic board just isn't going in without some hacking.

 

[phreakout]

Whoops. I almost forgot about that. Okay, correction, the SE and SE/30 do have a different metal chassis with a difference of about 1/2-inch. My bad.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[Unknown_K]

The original SE has the smaller chassis, I think the later SE FDHD and the SE/30 are the same case.

 

[srieck]

Yeah, mines an 800k.

 

[phreakout]

Despite this minor difference, the components will all fit and work. I, too, originally started out with a dual 800K Mac SE. When the ADB quit working on the logic board, I bought an SE/30 logic board from another member of here and I didn't have to do any case modding. I just slipped the new board in, reconnected it up and away I went.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo: