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Just purchased Mac 512k

The MacEnhancer is droolable. If you have drivers for it, please post them in some of the places where we might find them (eg Mac Driver Museum).

800KB floppy drives were on the market before Apple sold the Mac Plus...

Mac128 and JDW: have I sent you my notes on early floppy drives?
The Mac Enhancer seems to do little more than provide printer and modem ports for parallel printers with applicable drivers. Since the disks provide system software they might have drivers for the hardware pre-installed, but just as likely the hardware may be plug and play, with the specific printer drivers doing all the work. Wonder if Microsoft continually updated the drivers for every printer released?

Yes, Apple's own 9/85 UniDisk used an 800K drive mechanism which some discovered the logicboard could be removed and could be used like the '86 3.5 Ext. drive with 64K ROMs, four months before the Plus was announced.

I don't recall receiving any notes. Just the technical manual which I need to start scanning.

 
how did Microsoft keep up with new drivers as new printers were produced? Maybe it was not necessary? The software may have been primarily for switching ports...Another 512K running system 6 with an HD20?
I think somebody needs to drop Mactarkus a note and find out if he has a 512K or 512Ke. Otherwise all of JDW's hard work is debunked. However, I'm inclined to believe that like most, the distinction between a 512K and 512Ke is lost as they are physically identical except they have different model numbers: M0001W/M0001E (to say nothing of the M0001Ds!), not really much of a distinction and would be easy to confuse. Also, I doubt the Microsoft Word 5 he mentions, would have been easy to install via a 512K's 400K drive, albeit it could have come pre-installed on the HD20. In all likelihood, however, it is probably a M0001W that was updated to a 512Ke with ROMs and 800K drive, or it is an actual M0001E 512Ke (or M0001D variant).

Microsoft, or somebody, would have had to have updated the drivers for every printer the MacEnhancer could have supported, simply because the native PC drivers created by the manufacturers would not be understood by the Mac OS and it is unlikely a PC manufacturer would have written a Mac compatible driver in the off chance one owned a MacEnhancer. I suspect that the MacEnhancer itself contains a ROM which has all the software necessary to translate commands sent by the Mac OS to the serial port. However, converting serial commands to parallel is one thing, controlling attached hardware must have the appropriate signals generated by the OS for that specific printer. As evidenced by the Read Me text and in viewing the System disk itself, there is only an application and no Installer, indicating that a driver is likely not required for the hardware itself, the application handling all the port switching via the System. In any event it looks like Microsoft got out of this business quickly.

 
JDW: have I sent you my notes on early floppy drives?
No, but since you brought up the subject, you might find this Feb. 1984 Byte Magazine interview with the original Mac team interesting. About half way through, Steve Jobs, Burrell Smith, Andy Hertzfeld, Bill Atkinson, and Chris Espinosa all talk about the Mac's multi-speed floppy disk control.

(I suppose one might also read deeper into the interview and note that Jobs cuts off poor Burrell twice as he's speaking. Makes one wonder if Jobs had a habit of doing that, pushing Burrell to the rock and cherry bomb throwing that brought about a restraining order some years later. This Folklore story provides another example of tension between Jobs and Burrell, which highlights why the Turbo Mac project was shelved. Personally, after reading Hertzfeld's book, I feel Steve should have axed Bob Belleville before he let an engineer the likes of Smith go.)

 
So I checked in with Mactarkus. It turns out he is one of the two hosts of retromaccast.com - very nice guy. He double checked his Mac 512K/HD20 and found that his 512K was not stock. It had 1MB of RAM and an 800K floppy. He was guessing that the ROM was likely upgraded too.

So, it looks like System 6.0 is (still) not happening on the 512K for now.

I'll be back with the results of my 512K delivery later this week.

Lumpy

 
Remember heat is the worst enemy for a computer, if the processor gets too hot it'll slow down.

Its always worth opening the computer and giving the fan and grille + Motherboard a dust, cleaning the ram contacts and ram chips with contact cleaner of some sort.

Maybe you could put a heatsink on the processor :p

 
Remember heat is the worst enemy for a computer, if the processor gets too hot it'll slow down.
I thought the worst enemies were EMP and crushers.

Rather than 'slow down' they tend to make logical errors and worst case go into thermal runaway.

 
Its always worth opening the computer and giving the fan and grille + Motherboard a dust, cleaning the ram contacts and ram chips with contact cleaner of some sort.
Uh, your new to vintage compact Macs aren't you? You can do none of those things on a 512K, well you can dust the motherboard, but that is generally not an issue since convection cooling doesn't pull dust inside the case in the first place.

Ah Steve, thank you for being such a hard ass about the fan thing.

 
Its always worth opening the computer and giving the fan and grille + Motherboard a dust, cleaning the ram contacts and ram chips with contact cleaner of some sort.
Uh, your new to vintage compact Macs aren't you? You can do none of those things on a 512K, well you can dust the motherboard, but that is generally not an issue since convection cooling doesn't pull dust inside the case in the first place.

Ah Steve, thank you for being such a hard ass about the fan thing.
Well... I do hate dust annd.. yeah.

I've cleaned out quite a few vintage macs but never really paid attention to the specs of the machine while cleaning inside.

 
Here is the description of the Microsoft MacEnhancer from pages 60-61 of the 1985 Macintosh Expansion Guide [iSBN 0-8306-0301-8]:

Price: $249
The MacEnhancer is an expansion system for the Macintosh that provides the user with one parallel and two serial ports connected to one of the Macintosh's serial ports. Printer driver software is provided for a variety of printers. Terminal emulation software is also provided. This compact device provides the user with one IBM-compatible parallel port and two IBM-compatible serial ports. The MacEnhancer installation software makes it possible to use this device from within Macintosh applications.

Printer drivers are provided for the Epson FX, MX, and LQ series of printers. They are also provided for the Toshiba P1351, Toshiba P1340, C. Itoh Prowriter, H-P ThinkJet, IBM Graphics, Okidata Microline 92, and Okidata Microline 93 printers. Terminal emulation software supplied by the manufacturer allows the Macintosh to communicate with mainframes and with a variety of personal computers.

Connection is extremely easy. Only the cord for connection to the Macintosh is provided.
 
Lumpy -- Congratulaions on your aquisition ! 8^ ]

Other than B & R that Scott mentions -- an excellent store, by the way -- here's another one > MacTreasures

Enjoy !

:b&w:

 
All:

I received the 512K late yesterday. A few things:

1) It's had the Mac Plus Upgrade - 800K internal drive and 128K ROM

2) It starts but it quickly shuts down... as though there is a short in the electrical supply. I cracked her open and found that if I flex the analog board a little, she'll power back on and stay on. But I have to flex the board just right by putting pressure on the rear top of the boar - pushing it toward the CRT. With the right pressure on the analog board, she stays powered - if I let off the pressure, she shuts down.

Beyond replacing the analog board - any tips on how to get this one running?

I'm disappointed that it's not original, and knew I was rolling the dice - but am having fun with it non the less. The case is in excellent shape (Light beige - no yellowing) and the CRT/Display quality is sharp with no burn in. A good example worth getting up/running.

Thanks,

Lumpy

 
You could be but a single dry joint, or a few dry joints, away from joy as was zeppelin87. The FBT is a prime suspect in this case, but tomlee59's description of the path to the promised land in the same topic is worth your consideration. A quarter-century or thereabouts of resonance in a large and hot component on the power/sweep board is a fine target during the first roundup of usual suspects.

de

 
Equill:

Thank you.

I was thinking the same thing after reading that document.

When the unit is started cold, it starts right up. Once she warms up, an electrical buzz is heard, then she shuts down. Flexing the power/sweep board gets temporary power back and she turns on for the amount of time I can keep the board flexed exactly right.

I have a solder iron. I removed the power/sweep board last night to look more closely at her. What do I need to do to trouble shoot a dry joint or two? Do I attack it from the back of the board? Re-heat each solder point and let it cool - in the hope of sealing the joint? Any guidance is appreciated - I am not what I would call experienced with a soldering iron - more of a novice.

I have a (used) replacement board on the way that is known to be good but it was $$ and I can return it in 7 days if I can get this old girl solid.

Lumpy

P.S. I ordered Pina's Macintosh Repair & Upgrade Secrets a few weeks ago - still waiting for it to arrive.

 
Update:

Watched a quick youtube video (or two) on how to solder electronics boards. Got my solder out and practiced on an old motherboard that I had lying around - then went and hit the main components (culprits) on the power/sweep board. Used new solder at most joints - hit about 30-40 joints...

Set the board back in the mac - powered up.... ran for a few minutes as usual - then electrical buzz to power down. No luck there.

Lumpy

 
In even the relatively-large masses of solder implicit in holding large (in mass or current-demand) components to a power/sweep board, the integrity of the board-to-trace or board-to-land adhesion can usually be assumed. Nonetheless, look askance at obvious messily-reworked joints, and especially if the expression "dog's-breakfast" comes readily to mind.

'Dry' joints are rather found between pigtails and pins and the solder, and/or the solder and the land or trace. The stabilizing effect of through-board holes can help, as can the use of hot-glue blobs post-soldering, to prevent movement of the solderees® during the all-important freezing of the solder after its application. Also critical to good joint formation is that the solder 'melt' should properly 'wet' and bridge the surfaces being attached. Fluxing and cleanliness (jointly, 'wettability') of surfaces, immobility of the joint, and rate of heat input and escape during freezing of the solder are important in assuring a good joint.

The frozen solder is a solid solution of malleable metals. Tension and cyclic stress can therefore, in time, affect a joint's adhesive qualities, even to the point of separation of the metals/metalloids from each other by 'crystallizing out' of the solution. Dull finish and granular appearance of a joint may be evident, but increased ohmic resistance to the point of open-circuit is the clincher.

The remedy? Remake the joints. This needs all the gear and attention of the original joint-making. It may need only a dab of fresh solder and flux, or it may need aspiration of the faulty solder and its total replacement. Adequate cleanliness, heat input/removal and stabilization of the parts is important. A resistance-check across remade joints will be useful, but the success of the complete operation may not be apparent before the job is completed and the board is back in service. None of the foregoing guarantees no shorting in an FBT, or that bung capacitors or barbecued resistors will have healed themselves. The components on power/sweep boards are big enough for physical inspection to suggest replacement, when that is needed, rather than resoldering, and rugged enough that no fear of damage from static (given normal and tasteful precautions) should be a consideration.

This peroration may take longer to read than it takes to resolder a joint, with practice. You can practise on something inconsequential, such as a current Acer PC, and be up and running in no time at all. Rots of ruck.

de

 
equill - thanks for the thorough explanation. I did go back and retouch the key solder points. Getting each point to flow and, where necessary, touching up with new solder. Probably not to the level of detail that you specify.

In any case, I believe I have localized the issue to the Flyback transformer. It is the culprit that buzzes noisily as the Mac powers down...

It looks like I'm out of bullets (unless the flyback wheel can be serviced by me). I have a replacement power/sweep board on the way.

Despite all of this, I'm enjoying getting this old dog back on its feet.

Lumpy

 
I believe I have localized the issue to the Flyback transformer. It is the culprit that buzzes noisily as the Mac powers down...
It looks like I'm out of bullets (unless the flyback wheel can be serviced by me).
I have replaced flyback transformers. It is quite easy actually. The key is to get your hands on a replacement. It sounds like you were quite thorough in your soldering, however, if you did not re-work the flyback connections, you definitely should. Of course it may not be the flyback at all, but rather some vital component in line with the flyback that is failing once it heats up, especially now that you have verified most of the solder connections. Though the fact you can flex the board and restore power certainly indicates the primary culprit is a connection, vs. a defective part. I believe equill hints at using a desoldering pump or braid to completely clean off the old solder which may be incapable of re-adhering properly.

You will find Larry Pina's book quite helpful in diagnosing and repairing problems on the analogue board as Tom Lee's article.

As for restoring it, internal 400K drives are relatively easy to find on eBay. Also, you might consider getting an external 400K drive. You can always swap the internal for the external (though the 400K case bracket needs minor alteration to hold the 800K drive. The internal 800K drive bracket may also need to be modified to hold the 400K if that is even possible (I know the reverse is true as Pina's book outlines).

It doesn't sound like you really need the 64K ROMs based on how you have described using it. However, look for dead 128K/512K logicboards that turn up on eBay all the time for very little. As I said before, the ROMs are usually in perfectly fine condition and can be easily swapped out to restore your 512K to it's original condition. Did you indicate whether this was originally a 512K, or a 512Ke? The model number on the rear label will be M0001E or D or ED if the latter and W if the former. You can also verify by the serial number which will start with F6 followed by a number greater than 12 if it is a 512Ke. THe reason I think it may be a 512Ke is because the original owner told you there were not any upgrades. They would have known if it had had the 512Ke upgrade since it was by no means inexpensive and typically had to be performed by authorized Apple service personnel.

FYI, depending on the 800K drive installed, it may work natively with the 64K ROMs just like the Apple 3.5 External drive does, meaning you only have to swap the ROMs to play around with it. The 64K ROMs don't like to have external drives attached when one of them is an 800K for some reason (it makes a constant clicking noise).

 
Mac128 - if you know of a source of flybacks, point me there - I'll buy one just to see if I can revive the board. I did re-work the flyback connectors...

The trick of flexing the power/sweep board was very flakey - I'm not sure if there was another loose connection and it was a combo of problems.

I do not need the 64K ROMs - but I was looking for a stock example. I'm not a collector though - just looking to relive the time when I owned my original mac and also love messing with this stuff to see if I can get it to work.

It was an original 512K - ended in "W" not "E". The Mac came with all of the original software and manuals - including the "Plus Upgrade" manual. At the end of the day, I think the seller played dumb - "it started the last time I started it 10 years ago". She also told me she thought it was stock... and packed me the upgrade manual and receipt. Live and learn....

I'm still pretty happy with the unit. The case is very light beige and in excellent shape - a good example if I can get her running. It came with some good software and included a lot of vintage Mac books. I may chuck the MacEnhancer up on Ebay and see what it fetches. It came with 4 different sets of disks - they were updates... so thats how Microsoft kept up with new printers.

Regarding the 800K drive - I'm going to stick with it... I have the HD20, so at the end of the day, the 128K ROM and 800K drive are fine by me. I'll get to run OS 6 as well.

I'll be updating this thread until I get her running!

Lumpy

P.S. I got to feel the full effect of a CRT discharge today while removing the Anode Cap. After doing it successfully 3 times, I got whacked when I was pulling the power/sweep board to ready the unit for a replacement board. Let's just say I'll be buying the discharge tools tomorrow. Mother F'er that hurt.

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