I finally found an SE/30 that wasn't too outrageously priced. I linked pictures of everything below. When I plugged it in, it didn't do anything. After taking it apart it looks like the plug from the monitor to the analog board got fried. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? I'm hoping the analog board/PSU/CRT aren't trash from this problem. The case is in decent shape. I can tell C1 needs replaced at least on the logic board.
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Finally got an SE/30, it has issues
- Thread starter Stillwell
- Start date
Welcome Stillwell,
An SE/30 bought online that has problems is expected, unfortunately!
The burnt out pin you have noted is common on all Compacts (128K, Plus, SE, SE/30), and related to a dry solder joint on the 240V CRT power that over time arcs and burns out the trace on the analog board. Depending on the damage, I have cleaned and resoldered this region to good effect, or in a couple I had to bypass the entire region and run thick gauge wire to the next trace.
The fault of this wire would be flickering/no video; you should still get power and the SE/30 should function. As you are not, please search the forums on replacing the capacitors on the PSU, analogue board and motherboard; all will need replacement, without any doubt. Check the voltages on the PSU in the mean time. Sadly without any of this being done you will just have a doorstop.
An SE/30 bought online that has problems is expected, unfortunately!
The burnt out pin you have noted is common on all Compacts (128K, Plus, SE, SE/30), and related to a dry solder joint on the 240V CRT power that over time arcs and burns out the trace on the analog board. Depending on the damage, I have cleaned and resoldered this region to good effect, or in a couple I had to bypass the entire region and run thick gauge wire to the next trace.
The fault of this wire would be flickering/no video; you should still get power and the SE/30 should function. As you are not, please search the forums on replacing the capacitors on the PSU, analogue board and motherboard; all will need replacement, without any doubt. Check the voltages on the PSU in the mean time. Sadly without any of this being done you will just have a doorstop.
Wow yes, that yoke connector is pretty toasted (on the yoke end). The yoke can be swapped with one from another compact Mac CRT, as long as the yoke connector is the same one (they changed it later with the Classic).
If you don't know how, learn how to solder/replace capacitors or pay someone to do it for you.
These videos are a great place to start:
All of the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board must be replaced ASAP. They leak and damage traces/other components on the board. They already appear to have done so on your board, I can tell its not very clean. When you recap, you will also need to thoroughly clean the board with isopropyl alcohol too.
As has been mentioned, the PSU and analog board will also need recapping.
If you don't know how, learn how to solder/replace capacitors or pay someone to do it for you.
These videos are a great place to start:
All of the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board must be replaced ASAP. They leak and damage traces/other components on the board. They already appear to have done so on your board, I can tell its not very clean. When you recap, you will also need to thoroughly clean the board with isopropyl alcohol too.
As has been mentioned, the PSU and analog board will also need recapping.
Thanks for all the replies! All of these pictures were after a lot of cleaning. The logic board had a thick layer of dust caked on and I used IPA and a toothbrush to scrub it. It looks like the rust is isolated to the shielding between the I/O on the back and the rest of the board. I'm not sure how to clean that rust off to stop it from spreading. After I looked closer, it looks like a lot of the caps have popped. The bottom of the case was covered in crust. The traces didn't seem to be eaten away the way I would have expected with how much got to the bottom of the case. Maybe the dust absorbed it all haha. There was also a handful of paper trash shoved into the floppy port. If the dates on the trash is an indicator, this thing wasn't used since 91, which seems odd as its from 90.
I am comfortable with soldering, but am finishing a masters thesis and don't have time, so I will either wait or send it off depending on pricing. JDW makes awesome videos and I don't think I'd have any problems if I used one as a guide. I also have a 512k I could borrow a yoke from after the SE/30 is recapped to make sure everything works. There are some cheap Plus machines around here I might buy just for CRT parts. I have a floppy emu and bluescsi so I don't really care if the floppy drive or HDD function.
I was hoping I'd have better luck with this. I've had about 4 128/512/Plus machines and every one had functioned perfectly. Oh well, I finally got my hands on something with a 68030 and I'm excited.
I am comfortable with soldering, but am finishing a masters thesis and don't have time, so I will either wait or send it off depending on pricing. JDW makes awesome videos and I don't think I'd have any problems if I used one as a guide. I also have a 512k I could borrow a yoke from after the SE/30 is recapped to make sure everything works. There are some cheap Plus machines around here I might buy just for CRT parts. I have a floppy emu and bluescsi so I don't really care if the floppy drive or HDD function.
I was hoping I'd have better luck with this. I've had about 4 128/512/Plus machines and every one had functioned perfectly. Oh well, I finally got my hands on something with a 68030 and I'm excited.
Things started to get more complex with the SE/30 compared with the other compacts because that's when they introduced surface mount technology to the compacts. The SMD caps leak in a way that the axials on the 128k/512k/Plus/SE don't.
Good luck with it.
@Stillwell might be worth a 2nd clean either before or after you recap:
those logic gates are not essential for boot but if those still have dirt around the legs, other chips probably do as well.
those logic gates are not essential for boot but if those still have dirt around the legs, other chips probably do as well.
Good call. There’s a lot of spots like that I missed. I’ll give it another scrub down asap
Re: rust. Take off all the metal bits and apply a rust converter like Naval Jelly (it's basically phosphoric acid). After washing it off, you can consider coating it with a rusty-metal spray paint (obviously, keep the paint out of anything mechanical like the floppy drive; or electrical as it could be somewhat conductive even when dry). Yes, it will change the color of the parts, but most are hidden inside anyway, so...
IIRC, that fried connector is still available as new; I think it's a molex part?
P.s. - just out of pure curiosity, what's you thesis about?
IIRC, that fried connector is still available as new; I think it's a molex part?
P.s. - just out of pure curiosity, what's you thesis about?
