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Dead 512k replacement parts

So it’s been a while but my Macintosh 512k is still very much dead. So I’ve done some thinking and looking around eBay for replacement parts (I don’t want to get a whole new machine at the moment) and saw that Mac Classic analog board are much cheaper than the 128k, 512k and Plus boards. So I was wondering if any of those components (the flyback, voltage regulators, etc) would be compatible with my 512k? That way I can do some repair work without spending a couple hundred on a new 512k board or machine.
 
Some may be compatible, but Classic boards are known to be worse off than 128k/512k/Plus ABs. The flyback might work (I honestly don’t know), but a better idea would be to start diagnosing what the issue is rather than shotgun replacing parts.
 
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yeah absolutely. find out what you need to replace, then figure out how to get the replacements!
 
It is possible that the flybacks of early Classic analog boards could work. There is a special thread about this in this forum I think..
 
Some may be compatible, but Classic boards are known to be worse off than 128k/512k/Plus ABs. The flyback might work (I honestly don’t know), but a better idea would be to start diagnosing what the issue is rather than shotgun replacing parts.
The thing that kill my Mac was my friend smacking the side of the case, don’t know what he was thinking but the first smack just made the screen turn off for a couple of seconds then it came back on and the second smack was the killing blow. I’ve done some diagnosing and you can hear the flyback ticking if you put your e as close to it, which leaves me to believe that it’s arching internally and needs to be replaced.
 
Oh, but that could just be some broken solder joints! Almost all of the Analog Boards of this time now have this issue. Just re-solder the cracked joints. The cracks are just sometimes almost impossible to find, though. So best reflow everything what looks suspicious. 😊
 
Oh, but that could just be some broken solder joints! Almost all of the Analog Boards of this time now have this issue. Just re-solder the cracked joints. The cracks are just sometimes almost impossible to find, though. So best reflow everything what looks suspicious. 😊
I’ll give that another go, I’ve already tried that a while ago with a hot air gun but still nothing. Unless I should desolder and re-solder every joint?

But should I try my luck and buy a Mac Classic analog board to use for parts just in case reflowing again does not work?
 
I'd do it with a soldering iron and some additional flux, or just remove the solder from every suspect joint with a solder sucker and apply new solder. The suspect joints are at the connectors, maybe also those of the flyback and other big components. Be careful not to overheat small pads or they will separate from the board. Good luck! 😃
 
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