Colour classic strange problem

[derole123]

Hello.

I am having a problem where my colour classic when booting it up it sometimes doesn't chime and goes to a grey screen. Sometimes it will do other random stuff like play the crash sound but stay on the Grey screen. I tried cleaning the board (was filled with dust). That fixed it for a little then the problem came back. At one point I had to reboot it 4 times to get it to start correctly. If anyone knows how to fix this would be greatly appreciated as just went through the hassle of replacing an old broken hard disk in it. Have a video of it I can send if needed.

Thanks.

 

[mraroid]

Hi...
 
Probably people will recommend that you replace the caps in your logic and analog board.  That is what I had to do.
 
One thing you can try.....
 
You can use the switch on the back of your color classic to turn it on, but do not press the key on your keyboard to boot your color classic.  Let your Color Classic stay that way over night, or a day then try to boot it.  That helped me when my Color Classic had not been turned on for a year or more.
 
Your battery on the logic board is good?  Unplug and plug back in your logic board a few times (with no power to the Color Classic).  Just in case the contacts are dirty.
 
You can photograph your logic board and post a photo here if you like.
 
Keep us updated.
 
mraroid

 

[Macdrone]

um capacitor replacement done yet?

 

[derole123]

I haven't yet re capped the board but would like to avoid it if possible. I replaced the PRAM battery with a new one yesterday and I usually leave it turned on at the switch. Any other suggestions? Will try unplugging and plugging in the logic board. Here's a video if you need it: https://youtu.be/V6-7cIqgehs

Thanks.

 

[derole123]

Just tried re inserting the logic board sees to be starting up every time now. Will update you if it comes back.

 

[bibilit]

I will not try to turn it on unless work has been done to the Logic Board (new caps) you can only make things worse in the end.

Just my two cents...

 

[EvilCapitalist]

I haven't yet re capped the board but would like to avoid it if possible.

Echoing bibilit and Macdrone, there's no getting around it.  If you're on original capacitors, you're on borrowed time and it's loads easier to recap (or have someone recap for you) a board that's still working rather than one that has already succumbed to caps.  The SE/30s are a poster child for caps ruining a board but the CC and its Performa brethren (LC5xx series) aren't far behind.

 

[bibilit]

Moreover the Classic Colour is pretty simple when dealing with caps.

 

[Alex]

Just tried re inserting the logic board sees to be starting up every time now. Will update you if it comes back.

If this is the case, clean the connectors with isopropyl alcohol, you said the board was very dusty so I would try that. An eventual recap might be necessary but please DO NOT twist the caps off or there is a high chance that you will rip out a pad. Remember the copper plating is roughly 0.005mm thin, not very robust.

This video should give you a good idea on how to remove electrolytic capacitors correctly. https://youtu.be/ZUVvRtJuL5Q

NOT LIKE THIS: https://youtu.be/X8N9O3a9jiM- this is suicidal. It may look like he did not rip out any pads but chances are that board will suffer down the road. Invest in proper tools for the task because if you rip out pads you will need to go through the procedure in this video --> https://youtu.be/vx50YtEC2S8, by the way the dude over on  RetroGameModz is incredibly skilled!

 

[mraroid]

Hot tweezers?  Wow!  I never knew someone made such a thing.  They seem *perfect* for mac boards from the era that i work with.  They sure are expensive. 
 
I use Weller branded soldering irons.  I would like to buy a hot tweezers set up.  I wish it did not cost so much. 
 
mraroid

 

[apm]

NOT LIKE THIS:

I used to use hot tweezers but I'm a convert to the twist method. It's hard to say for sure but I suspect there is actually less risk to the pads this way. The pad is more likely to delaminate when hot, and it can take quite some time to get that ancient solder to flow again. The pads are also more sensitive to pulling upward than sideways (shear) force. Patience is a virtue if you use heat. It's important to wait until it comes off with no resistance.
You'll see in the tweezers video that one cap overheats and explodes as it's coming off. That's happened to me too. It's a possible risk to the board but a definite risk to your eye! Wear goggles!

 

[68krazy]

My preferred method of removing caps.  Cheap, effortless once you get the hang of it, and leaves your solder pads pristine:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/858D-Soldering-Rework-Station-Iron-Welder-Desoldering-Hot-Air-Gun-Tool-3-Nozzles-/192010037941?epid=1439182483&hash=item2cb4b0aab5:g:u2kAAOSwo4pYDbcS

Whatever method you use, recapping boards with surface mount electrolytics (such as your CC board) is not optional.  The longer you wait, the more likely you are to experience trace rot from leaked electrolyte—and then the board becomes much, much harder to repair.

 

[aplmak]

You have to recap the board!!!! Just like everyone else has said!!! You could potentially damage the board with bad caps on it! I squish them opposite side of the pad connection and then wiggle back and fourth pressing on the board not pulling.. I do tons of them this way.. But a newbie should be very careful!

 

[derole123]

Thanks for all the replies. Not sure if it's worth doing and how much it will cost as I bought it for £50 off eBay and it got damaged in post due to lack of packaging (even though the seller claimed it had alot of packaging in it) but the seller gave me £20 back so I got it for £30 untested and it worked. Then the hard drive broke a day later (lucky had one from a power macintosh and spent about £20 getting it fitted by someone who knew how to take apart the crt to get to it ????) then I spent £5 on a floppy drive to put software onto some spare floppies I have using my imac g3 and spent £20 on a FPU upgrade. Is it worth spending the money for recapping it because I never actually considered doing it.

Thanks.

 

[joethezombie]

If you wish to keep using it, you must recap it. The existing caps leak a caustic gel which eat away at the traces and vias on the motherboard, eventually causing irreparable damage. This is already occurring. “Is it worth it?” is a strange question. You need to be asking if you want to keep using it.

 

[EvilCapitalist]

Thanks for all the replies. Not sure if it's worth doing and how much it will cost as I bought it for £50 off eBay and it got damaged in post due to lack of packaging (even though the seller claimed it had alot of packaging in it) but the seller gave me £20 back so I got it for £30 untested and it worked. Then the hard drive broke a day later (lucky had one from a power macintosh and spent about £20 getting it fitted by someone who knew how to take apart the crt to get to it ) then I spent £5 on a floppy drive to put software onto some spare floppies I have using my imac g3 and spent £20 on a FPU upgrade. Is it worth spending the money for recapping it because I never actually considered doing it.

Thanks.

Look at it this way, you're all in to the machine for 75 quid.  Recapping (at least over here) runs anywhere from $50-70 (or ~£39 to ~£58) so even if you didn't want to keep the machine you could sell it on to someone that did and likely make back all the money you've put in to it and then some.

 

[just.in.time]

Someone charged you £20 just to install a hard drive you already had? Dang, if you were within 50 miles of me I would have helped you do it for free.

The good thing about recapping it is, if you use tantalum capacitors, you will likely never have to replace them again in your lifetime. Traditional electrolytic capacitors would be okay, they are generally good for 20 years + some bonus time depending on who manufactured them.

At any rate, the capacitors themselves aren't all that expensive. If you can find a member with some soldering skills that is local to you maybe they can help you for a little cheaper or for a trade of something. You're in the lucky stage where it still turns on (sometimes), so you likely haven't rotted out any traces yet.