• Hello MLAers! We've re-enabled auto-approval for accounts. If you are still waiting on account approval, please check this thread for more information.

CC Analog PCB Re-cap - One capacitor value different than listed

Tim S

6502
I'm doing a re-cap of my Color Classic Analog PCB.  While removing the old caps one capacitor, CP34 was 47uf@25v and not 100uf@25v as listed on the master parts list found here and on other Macintosh sites.

Any opinions on this?  Could anyone please take a peek at their machine and confirm what this value should be?

Thanks! :)

 
That's fine.  You can always meet or exceed the voltage and capacitor ratings.  No problem!  So if it calls for 47uf@25v you could do 100 or 150 at 25 or 50, etc.  Just try to get a picture or dimension of the capacitor when you order it so it looks the same and will install the same.  You can fudge this too if you are clever (as long as it connects somehow to positive and negative).  The most important thing is making sure you install it with the positive and negative side the same as the old one!!  

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the reply.

I realize that I can up the voltage rating but I was surprised that the value of the capacitor was actually so much different.   47uf (found on my analog pcb) instead of the 100uf value that was listed on the parts list that I found here.  Seems like quite a bit of difference. 

I just wanted to confirm with someone that may be able to check the actually value that they have on their CC Analog PCB.

 
I don't have a CC to provide the actual value, but I will chime in that you are correct, Tim, capacitance value does matter, with caveats.

Most capacitors on the logic board are what are called bypass capacitors.  They sit with one terminal on the voltage (supply) plane, and the other terminal on the ground plane.     Under normal operation, they are charged to the operating voltage of the supply plane to which they are connected.  So a bypass capacitor tied to the 5V supply plane spends most of its life at 5V, one tied to the 12V supply plane is at 12V, etc.

On the analog board, some capacitors will be bypass capacitors to smooth the output of the voltage supply circuit.  But others will be involved the timing of the video circuit or sound circuits, etc.

For bypass capacitors, if the voltage supply dips below the supply voltage, suddenly the capacitor is at a higher voltage than its terminals.  So it discharges some of its stored electrons into the board to equalize the voltage.  This has the effect of raising the supply plane voltage and lowering the capacitor voltage.

Similarly if the supply plane goes too high.  The capacitor absorbs some more charge to raise its voltage and lowers the supply plane voltage.

Obviously, if the power supply stays too high or too low for a long period, the capacitor can't fix that, but for brief excursions, the capacitors smooths things out to an average.

Capacitors with high capacitance are slower to react to changes in the supply voltage, but have more capacity to compensate.

Capacitors with lower capacitance react faster, but have much smaller capacity to affect the overall voltage.

So big 47uF caps are there to smooth out larger, lower frequency excursions.    Tiny picofarad range caps (the ceramics we usually ignore) are there to balance out very high frequency but tiny amplitude excursions.

As you might guess, for bypass capacitors, changing the capacitance by 20 or 30% will not have a large effect on the steadiness  that the supply plane sees.  Likely, the capacitors have a rated tolerarance in the 20% range (meaning a 47uf might be between ~38uF and ~56uF.

But, if the capacitor is not a bypass capacitor, then the actual capacitance may matter a great deal.    The timing of some circuits depends on the value of some R (resistance) times the capacitance, and if you change the capacitance, you change the time constant and can affect anything from whether the circuit works at all (timing too far off to coordinate) to the frequency of the sound you're hearing out of speakers.

 
Thank you for taking the time to do the great write-up.  It explains things very well.

I'm am thinking now that I should just replace the cap that I pulled off of the pcb with the same value even if it differs from the known list.  I am very careful when I un-solder caps one at a time and pay close attention to the value.  Perhaps this one was a different value for a reason or perhaps it was just a mistake but if it was a mistake it has lived it whole life so far with that value and seemed to operate fine.  

I will try to research a little more online and wait to see if someone can actually verify the value on their own board.

 
Back
Top