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10" OLED Color Classic Mod?

mraroid

6502
Hi...

My TV is the very last CRT HD Sony TV.  Deep, deep blacks, and pure whites.  Yes, it is only HDMI 1.1, but I love the 1920 X 1080p picture. No motion artifacts.

I am getting shy about putting more then 60V on pin 8 of my analog board in my Color Classic. I just do not think that sony trinitron CRT was made to very much more then 5% (but I am not an expert).

So, I had two thoughts and maybe the learned folk here can advise me....

1) Did Sony make a 10" CRT that one could put in a Color Classic so that if it saw 60V sitting on pin 8, it would produce at least 640 X 480?

OK, so a hard question to answer I know.  So let's move to option # 2:

2) This will be way more costly, but easier on my CRT eyes. Is anyone making a 10" OLED that we could drop into a color classic?  While the OLED would probably produce 1920 X 1080 or maybe 1280×720 (720p), I would be happy if I could drive it to just produce 640 X 480.

I am not a big fan of LED and LCDs.  I want to see that lovely sony trinitron CRT if I can.

Thoughts?

jack the new kid

 
I don't own a CC and haven't done this modification, but I've looked at the horizontal sweep circuits of the B&W compacts in some detail.

I think the CRT shouldn't be your concern here. The reason for the higher sweep voltage is to drive the horizontal deflection coil to move the beam faster across the screen. More voltage across the coil = faster change in deflection current over time = higher possible horizontal frequency.

The CRT itself doesn't see any of this, and it doesn't care about the screen resolution per se (which is a function of the yoke). The CRT only sees the HV from the flyback plus the various other voltages at the neck. I'd expect that those voltages will remain the same with this mod, since the picture quality remains similar. In other words, done correctly, there's no reason to think you'd shorten the life of the CRT, though it may be added load on the flyback transformer or other parts of the analog board. But I would guess those components are easier to replace if it ever came up.

I'm sure someone who has done the modification before can comment on whether it has any issues with the analog board deteriorating over time.

 
I have read that the flyback transformer in the Color Classic was slightly undersized to began with.  And then, because of venting issues, it became slightly hotter then it would like to be. You add both of the above together, then increase the voltage from 60V to around 68 or 69V, on pin 8, and maybe you are asking for trouble.

I suspect I could find 12V someplace on that analog board, and mount a very small fan next to the flyback transformer. 

But I know more about brain surgery then flyback transformers.

Can anyone here recommend a more robust flyback transformer that I could swap out with the one on my Color Classic, slap a micro fan next to it for good measure, then move ahead with the VGA mod?

What other crucial components could be effected when the voltage is raised?

Thank you for your very interesting post. 

jack

 
Well it increases the current tails in the horizontal output circuitry so it swings the beam harder. 

But the problem with this, it adds stress to the sweep circuitry so eventually itll take its toll.

But, the LC5XX analogs are very close to the CC, there are a few differences, and they run 640x480 without the transformer mods. 

The one thing that stands out between the two circuits, the LC5XX doesnt have the zener clamp diodes. the CC does. 

 
You can find 10" "flatscreen" monitors out there, but you'll have two problems to overcome. The flat screen won't fit the very curvy bezel that housed the very not-flatscreen Sony Trinitron CRT.  You'll have to make up the difference somehow.

The bigger problem is actually finding a 9" or 10" monitor made in the last 5 years that has the proper aspect ratio. 4:3 monitors are still made for some specialty applications, but most everything you'll find easily will be 16:9 or 16:10 ratios. The ones I've been able to find that are in the right size range and 4:3 tend to be more expensive than I'm interested in dropping on the project.

 
I've had a "Mystic" VGA-modded Colour Classic with LC575 board which has been running fine for a decade, and it's one of my most used 68K Macs.  I was also given a "Takky" VGA-modded Colour Classic with 6500 board + L2 G3 which also runs fine, although needs some soldering around the yoke I suspect due to some flickering colours.

Go for it, it makes the CC much more usable and is the resolution it should have been.

 
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