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I received the ones from Granger linked above, they are about 2mm longer than the original but work fine. If I order them again I will try one of the other sources.

Considering the popularity of build your own mechanical keyboards they has to be a market for a 'new' Mac Plus keyboard.

In Philly try the Game Junkie in Glenside. I know they recap gaming Consoles, they may be willing to try a Mac. https://www.classicgamejunkie.com Alternatively I live in Jenkintown and have done a few Mac Pluses myself if you are willing to trust a complete stranger DM me.

eBay prices on Mac Plus keyboards are out of control not to mention the mice. Are there any other options? Less expensive sources? Was at VCF East this past weekend but no one had any. I did find a PS2 to Mac Plus keyboard dongle by TinkerBoy but it's $50! Open to suggestions.

I'm adding these other links here in case someone finds this thread and not the others. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/würth-elektronik/700973500/9488147 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Heyco/9034?qs=%252BoUD%2FvVO7K3dDExzm%2FusLw%3D%3D

Yup. I found them. "Snap-shank push-in blind rivets" These are pretty close measurement wise https://www.grainger.com/product/Push-In-Rivet-4FXT5

I am sure this is answered somewhere but i don;t even know what they are called to search for them. What are the little black pins that hold the plastic shield to the side of the Mac Plus analog board? I have a 1986 board that uses the doubled sided tape which has completely deteriorated at...

After I accepted that it was fried I just left on my bench for a few weeks and didn't even touch it. Just started moving parts over to a working SE I had yesterday. I'm sure another SE30 will come my way at some point. In the meantime I have 2 Plusses and a 7200 waiting for me and I have a lead...

I think it was a bodge I had installed at R13 to the wrong location.

Yup, I watched that video. Basically I just removed everything i had touched, every cap, every bodge wire, tested after each one, until the short was gone and then reassembled.

Welp, as suspected I'm pretty sure I have fried the 68030 on this board at a minimum. I got and assembled one of those SE/30 Peekers and All the data lines are showing as dead. Thankfully this board has a socketed CPU but I have looked and can't find a replacement anywhere (Can I replace the...

I found the short. Basically removed every cap, bodge wire, or anything I had touched. Tested after each removal until I found it. Completely my mistake. Now to rebuild everything again and hope I didn't fry the board.

I haven't given up. I've pulled off almost all the caps I put on and I'm double checking traces. Definitely have a short between 12v and 5v but not seeing anything obvious. Trying to locate and follow all the 12v line on the board now. Has anyone mapped out all the 12v traces yet? Is it...

Yup, I'm pulling caps and looking under them now.

I an effort to track down this short I am rechecking every part of the board I have touched for probably the fifth time. I was suspecting a bad new UD8 and UE8 but removing them makes no difference, no raster, no bong, hot chips. This is going to take a while.

It was $20. And I have learned A LOT playing around with it. Also good to know that my RTC is not necessarily bad. (There was no bomb and all the traces tone good.) I am back to poking around in the UD8, UE8, UE10, C2, and C7 area. Debating with myself wether to put the original UDB and UE8...

I bought the FNIRSI DSS0152, it seems to be adequate for what I need. With it I can get voltages all over the board but I only get a wave pattern on pin 2 and 3 of UK4, the RTC, everywhere else is flat line. Does that mean my clock is bad or something it connects to? Or am I just using this wrong?

I bought a cheap oscilloscope and am trying to figure out how to us it. The fuse on the analog board is good. Are there fuses on the logic board? I don't see any on the schematic. The bodges on UE10 look terrible I know but they tone out OK, no shorts. I do have an ATX extension cable. Sure...

Well after another day of troubleshooting, toning traces and just trying different stuff, I am still at no bong and no video. Reset button does nothing. I do get some static on the headphone jack but that's it. I guess I am going to buy a cheap oscilloscope and then figure out how to use it.

I've got zero ideas of what to look at and really don't want to just start randomly changing parts. Another set of eyes would be helpful. Thanks. I know some of the trace repairs look a little dodgy but they tone out good with no shorts I can find.